• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

12V tap off of batteries?

thordehr

New member
37
0
0
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Is there any reason you couldn't get useable 12V by just tapping across either one of the batteries? The batteries as they sit in the truck are in parallel giving 24V from one end to the other, but they're still 12V across either set of terminals.
Is there any huge issue with a battery being more than the other? The draw would be minimal, phone charger, GPS, maybe an intercom? Maybe the loads could be evened out by putting some 12V loads across one battery and some across the other battery?

Ok, how about this for a second idea?!... Just thought of this while writing. Since batteries in series are (depending on the health of the batteries) evenly loaded.

Keeping that in mind, how about with the batteries still hooked up in series making the 24V, then also taking the positives from both batteries to one point. And also taking the negatives from both batteries to another point. This would be Ubersimple to setup.

This would leave you with a 12V source with a floating ground. You could not ground to the chassis but would have to bring all the 12V items to those two points positive and negative. Seems this would inherently even the load between the batteries and isolate the 24V and 12V systems.

Any glaring reasons either one of these ideas couldn't be done?

Barring that..... how about a third idea: 23 amps of 12V power for less than $100.
Samlex America SDC-23 20 Amp 24v DC to 12v DC Converter
 

swbradley1

Modertator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
14,250
1,702
113
Location
Dayton, OH
The simple way I would do it is just connect to the ground for the negative side and take 12v off the first battery. It's the easiest way.

The other way is to do a search on the classifieds and get the converter for sale or buy the one you have a link for.

I would try to use a floating ground setup. Sooner or later it has a funny way of coming back to haunt you, usually with smoke.

steve
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,177
113
Location
NY
Keeping that in mind, how about with the batteries still hooked up in series making the 24V, then also taking the positives from both batteries to one point. And also taking the negatives from both batteries to another point. This would be Ubersimple to setup.
Draw that on paper and you'll see it can't be done.


A 24 to 12V convertor, is the easiest and best way(imho)
 

B3.3T

Well-known member
1,293
92
48
Location
SW Ohio
"The simple way I would do it is just connect to the ground for the negative side and take 12v off the first battery. It's the easiest way. "

SW is right. We have done this countless times over many years with NO PROBLEMS. We have even used this to run civilian ignition systems installed on MV engines. No Problems at all.
 

thordehr

New member
37
0
0
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Oh duh. Floating ground won't work, it shorts the first battery.

Finally found another thread that hashes out the 12V options. Still seems that the running off one battery will kill one battery controversy is still alive.

Additionally Wolverine Technologies (from this site) is selling 12V alternators, and even MV 12V starters.... Interesting, could go all 12V on the Deuce... I see problems with this though, what about the 24V gauges, lights, sensors, etc? Ideas anyone?

I'm leaning more towards the

DC-DCconverter: Products | DC-DC Converters

or a DC equalizer: Products | Battery Equalizers


Doing some research into the differences and advantages between the two now....
 

steelandcanvas

Well-known member
6,187
85
48
Location
Southwestern Idaho
Under the big Steel Solodiers banner there is a Search button. Try a Search first before starting a thread about something. If Search does not give you a satisfactory answer, feel free to ask in the Forum. This subject has covered over and over and over again, at least once a week.
 

5tonpuller

Member
572
24
18
Location
Thompson, Pa
It comes in 3 flavors. 1 the death smell, If your fast you can save it with no problems. 2 The death smoke, you really need to be fast and if you are, you might have no problems. 3 The death flame. all bets are off, good luck.
 

thordehr

New member
37
0
0
Location
Los Angeles, CA
SandC....Yea. Look at my previous post, you would have seen that I finally found what I was looking for that I couldn't through previous searches. No need to be a ****. I can go to Pirate4x4 for that.
I was also presenting a new idea or two that turned out may not work out after all.
All others, thanks for the advice and sharing of your expertise and experience. Gives me a few paths to go down.... I don't have a "big truck" yet.....but I have "big plans"

Oh duh. Floating ground won't work, it shorts the first battery.

Finally found another thread that hashes out the 12V options. Still seems that the running off one battery will kill one battery controversy is still alive.

Additionally Wolverine Technologies (from this site) is selling 12V alternators, and even MV 12V starters.... Interesting, could go all 12V on the Deuce... I see problems with this though, what about the 24V gauges, lights, sensors, etc? Ideas anyone?

I'm leaning more towards the

DC-DCconverter: Products | DC-DC Converters

or a DC equalizer: Products | Battery Equalizers


Doing some research into the differences and advantages between the two now....
 

thordehr

New member
37
0
0
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Tennessee Colnel, thanks for the email. I don't even have a truck yet but am in the process. Trying to gather information for GL pick up, first drive PM as well as initial mods.
Seems the most reliable and cheapest way for me is using a 24-12v converter/equalizer.
I can use the GPS, phone, CB, HAM, intercom and not have to worry about dragging a single battery down...
Leaves the truck unmolested as well.
Thanks again.
 

steelandcanvas

Well-known member
6,187
85
48
Location
Southwestern Idaho
SandC....Yea. previous searches. No need to be a ****.
Sorry I ruffled your feathers trying to explain to you the question has been asked a bazillion times, and the Search feature works well for threads already written. Wasn't trying to be a ****. Guess it's time to stay away, I'm making people angry again.
 

tennmogger

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,579
542
113
Location
Greenback, TN
You have nothing to be ashamed of. You simply gave an option (search first) that could have been educational if used.

Bob

Sorry I ruffled your feathers trying to explain to you the question has been asked a bazillion times, and the Search feature works well for threads already written. Wasn't trying to be a ****. Guess it's time to stay away, I'm making people angry again.
 

rosco

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,102
30
38
Location
Delta Junction, Alaska
Converters are best! You can pull 12 volts off the second battery, at the positive post, before it goes to ground. That give you 12 V. The problem is that if you pull much juice, it will upset you voltage regulator which will cause either your system to over-charge, or under-charge. The batteries will not be balanced. One will be boiled away, and the other will be under charged. However, many accessories today, draw very little current. You can get away with a little of that.

Lee in Alaska
 

thordehr

New member
37
0
0
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Didn't mean come off so harshly or for you to get all butthurt steelandcanvas. I was pointing out that I had searched initially without finding the posts or threads I wanted. Have subsequently found some great info though, seems everyone here is a wealth of information.
Speaking of which, here's one for anyone before I call the company and ask directly...
What is the practical difference between a 24-12V converter and a 24-12V equalizer? Seems a number of companies sell both items made by the same manufacturer....
For some reason, I have a feeling that the equalizer will end up being the more expensive of the two...?
 

steelandcanvas

Well-known member
6,187
85
48
Location
Southwestern Idaho
Didn't mean come off so harshly or for you to get all butthurt steelandcanvas. I was pointing out that I had searched initially without finding the posts or threads I wanted. Have subsequently found some great info though, seems everyone here is a wealth of information.
Speaking of which, here's one for anyone before I call the company and ask directly...
What is the practical difference between a 24-12V converter and a 24-12V equalizer? Seems a number of companies sell both items made by the same manufacturer....
For some reason, I have a feeling that the equalizer will end up being the more expensive of the two...?
No butthurt, not on this site, my skin's thicker than that. Let's just call a truce and be done with it. In response to your question, I don't know much about the equalizer, so I would think the converter would be the way to go. I looked at your converter you had linked in your post. One of the specs bothered me. The output, 12VDC, was rated at +/- 8%. This would give you a range of 9.6 to 14.4 volts. I think I would want something tighter than that, for my electronics. I think you can find something with better specs for around the same price. I am also looking for a converter, and there is alot to choose from.
 
Top