18,000 WINCH MOUNT

[Artisan]

So the TILT trailer I am fixin' up for my M916 is getting a winch.
I bought two of those 18,000 lb WARN Seris 18 winches
a few years ago and now I have a use for one.

I need to fab up a proper mount. I obtained a piece of 2" x 10" channel
that is about 2.5" tall and is 37.625" long. I boxed both ends of the channel.

The channel's now boxed ends will weld to the I-Beams of the trailer.
The channel's entire front will be uniwelded to the trailers front channel.
There is a 2" gap between the rear of the channel and the wood deck. I plan
on getting a piece of 2" x 2" x 1/4" wall radius'd corners trailer hitch stock
that is 37.625" long and welding it to the rear lip of the channel.

The Tan colored winch mount will be used mostly so I have some armorment
to protect the winch from my Dozer...

QUESTION, Have I done enough?

 

[Jbulach]

Looks plenty sufficient, nice job on the welding prep!

 

[Jbulach]

If it’s not too late and your apprehensive about strength, you might consider a couple of web stiffeners underneath the channel. Another thought is to make a receiver mount so your winch is not tied up in one location. My winch is only 9,000lb though, so 18,000lb I would probably go with a 2 or maybe even 3 receiver, so I could still use it on the front an back of my smaller trucks. I have receivers on everything, front and back of my trailer, all my trucks, in the front of the bed on the 5 ton, even my lawn mower. I also have the keyhole adapter that will drop over a ball hitch, or can be used to chain the winch to something. I use a set of quick connect, 2/0 x 25’ long extension cables to connect to power most of the time.

 

[Artisan]

The plan right now is to add a piece of 2" x 2" radius corner'd tailer hitch tube
along the rear edge for more support. To be stitch welded top AND bottom.

The front edge will be uniwelded to trailer's channel .

Plus the .375" mounting plate / armorment.

 

[Hammer]

How thick is that channel?
Honestly, what you have is probably just fine. I just like to build stuff way overkill and never think about it again.
Never under estimate the torsional strength of a winch, and how much it can twist/warp steel under a load.
Anything you can add to better resist the twist will always help.
I could see, with a heavy load that was drug up on the trailer with a lot of resistance to deform the bolt holes slightly.
Or it could last forever without issues. Heck if I know how hard you plan using this winch/trailer.

 

[Artisan]

How thick is that channel?
Honestly, what you have is probably just fine. I just like to build stuff way overkill and never think about it again.
Never under estimate the torsional strength of a winch, and how much it can twist/warp steel under a load.
Anything you can add to better resist the twist will always help.
I could see, with a heavy load that was drug up on the trailer with a lot of resistance to deform the bolt holes slightly.
Or it could last forever without issues. Heck if I know how hard you plan using this winch/trailer.

The 10" channel is about .262 thick.
There are 8- M12 bolts thru the bottom.
I ordered some proper oversized washers for the 8 M12's.
The rear strongback got upgraded to 2.5" x .25" square tube...
All welds, top and bottom are to be uniwelded.
Darn thing is heavy Ha~!
Here is the bottom of the mounting plate all welded up...
My welder is a Miller "Vintage" machine w/ a 60/40 duty
cycle so basically 6 minutes welding then 4 minutes resting.
It is really less than that, it starts to peter out if I do not let
it relax.

 

[Hammer]

I think it really boils down to how you plan on using it.
If it were me, I would add in some heavy C Channel under the bolt holes to box it in and run the bolts all the way through.
I have stretched out bolt holes on winch plates on some of my trailers before with a 9,000 lb winch. I have also twisted the front rail in a mount that is similar to what you have.
But I have also done stuff I really shouldn't have with it. Doing dead drags onto a trailer is tough, especially up ramps, etc.

 

[Artisan]

I think it really boils down to how you plan on using it.
If it were me, I would add in some heavy C Channel under the bolt holes to box it in and run the bolts all the way through.
I have stretched out bolt holes on winch plates on some of my trailers before with a 9,000 lb winch. I have also twisted the front rail in a mount that is similar to what you have.
But I have also done stuff I really shouldn't have with it. Doing dead drags onto a trailer is tough, especially up ramps, etc.

That's not a bad idea.... Maybe have one piece waterjet cut from .375 or .5 steel
like this and just get longer Grade 8 bolts and add undeneath...

 

[Hammer]

That's not a bad idea.... Maybe have one piece waterjet cut from .375 or .5 steel
like this and just get longer Grade 8 bolts and add undeneath...

I was thinking a little more simple, but maybe stronger.
Here is a super fast sketch. Heavy C Channel is cheap, and would lend a lot of strength.

 

[Artisan]

This is what I ended up with.
I added a center 3" x 3" x .250 wall support underneath
and I axed the origional vertical support and made my own.
The reason for the vertical is you not supposed to pull from
the top of a winch.