1952 M135 W/Winch

[m1010plowboy]

It's rusted, but not rusted THROUGH (yet).

There is hope still. You think?

The truck is perfect for a rubber up restoration. Fairly straight, nearly complete, nostalgic factor is high, useful, big,,,,all good.

 

[sigo]

I would never have thought that I'd be walking through a scrapyard in mid-northern Canada and find......not one, but two items that should belong to you.

I grabbed the can for you, it has USMC stamped in the top and not sure how to decipher the date....either 44' or 93' maybe.

The "USMC" stamped on that water can oddly enough does not indicate United Stated Marine Corps. USMC in this case is the manufacturer, US Metal Container company. US Metal Container made both fuel and water cans for the US military from WWII into at least the 1980s, perhaps even later. Good finds nonetheless.

 

[m1010plowboy]

The "USMC" stamped on that water can oddly enough does not indicate United Stated Marine Corps. USMC in this case is the manufacturer, US Metal Container company. US Metal Container made both fuel and water cans for the US military from WWII into at least the 1980s, perhaps even later. Good finds nonetheless.

That's a cool bit of information right there, thank you. Most cans I've seen had a date stamped on the bottom but this one isn't obvious. Is there anyway to determine it's age without cutting it in half and counting it's rings, like I do with trees?

This salvage yard contains bits and pieces from all over the north including the USMC truck, which I hope is authentic. I know I'll find more cans so more research required!

 

[gerrykan]

Most cans I've seen had a date stamped on the bottom but this one isn't obvious. Is there anyway to determine it's age without cutting it in half and counting it's rings, like I do with trees? !

Regarding the pictured jerrycan, the letters and numbers on the line below USMC is the contract number.
The date will probably be the next line below the contract number.

I can't read an actual date from your photos, but it appears there is something below the contract number.
The under handle stamping on these cans are so faint, that a repaint often fills them in.

The stamped/embossed date is the surest way to determine age but...

WWII Army cans will have USA or U.S.A. on one side and QMC or Q.M.C. on the other, as do some early Korean War era cans before the switch to US on the side and no QMC about 1951-52.

U.S.M.C./USMC on the side of the can stands for: United States Marine Corps.

U.S.N./USN on the side of the can = United States Navy.

US at the top of the side, and MC at the bottom of the side may indicate United States Medical Corp, but no proof has been found to my knowledge.

Aluminum cans with U.S.M.C./USMC on the side and an asymmetrical* large mouth water can style lid, and CONCO with no date on the bottom have been witnessed in late 1950's photographs in service with the U.S. Marine Corps.
*There is a pouring spout molded into the lower portion of the opening versus a completely round opening.

Deviations, and exceptions occur of course with production on many different contracts with a variety of manufacturers.

 

[m1010plowboy]

Jerry can USMC not U.S.M.C.

Regarding the pictured jerrycan, the letters and numbers on the line below USMC is the contract number.
The date will probably be the next line below the contract number.

Your info should be a stickie and in an encyclopedia! Thank you.

I cleaned a little harder and found 1962 under the contract number DA44 193 OM 1306. It's USMC, the can company, US on both sides, clean bottom....U.S.M.C.00-08 must have this!




I even checked the inside and it's just like new, ran when parked, swoosh a little water around in there.......

 

[USMC 00-08]

Very cool!! I wonder how all that ended up going so far north.

 

[USMC 00-08]

Progress is slow but it is happening.



One of my wheels is an oddball. None of the others have this marking.

 

[hendersond]

Your progress is great! What color are you going with and by whom?

 

[Zaddict]

Man that is looking great! Like the mouse eating elephant, one bite at a time.��

 

[Zaddict]

Do you have rubber seals for doors and run channel for windows? If so where did you get them?

 

[hambone]

Do you have rubber seals for doors and run channel for windows? If so where did you get them?

I need to replace mine also, the truck is looking good, these big trucks are, at least mine is, a long term project, hope to get back on mine soon.

 

[Tracer]

Looks like your taking your time and doing it right.

 

[USMC 00-08]

Your progress is great! What color are you going with and by whom?

I am going to try the Behr route after reading how pleased people have been with it. This is 1944mb's engine, but he used the paint color I picked out a few years back. It is about as close to a perfect match as I could get to some original paint I found on an old gas can and under some layers of paint on my truck. This color matches the second paint job my truck received. I'll post up the paint code as soon as I buy it again. 1944mb has my original can of paint. I was going to start painting the wheels this weekend but it is supposed to rain now. I've figured out the secret to making it rain......plan to paint.

Do you have rubber seals for doors and run channel for windows? If so where did you get them?

I need to replace mine also, the truck is looking good, these big trucks are, at least mine is, a long term project, hope to get back on mine soon.

Memphis Equipment has all of the rubber seals and I plan to order that from them. I did not ask if they had the run channel and need to do so. Alfa Heaven had some last I checked. I noticed that there used to be something that ran horizontal just inside where the glass comes out of the door. I think whatever it was pushed the glass against the cab, but all I find are the remnants of the base of that part that presses into the holes. Still need to figure this out.

For windshield seals, I am going to use M900 series seals. The width is perfect and they are a little tall so will just trim them to size.

 

[gentrysgarage]

This could be a seal stickie! Good info!

Also like the change to the signature! On my 1943 it took alot of deductive reasoning to get at a 95% certainty of its posting, history and final posting ...it helps that there were very few radar training schools in WW2! I am hoping to find the first posting of the M135.....I hope I can carefully remove the layers of paint on the bumper!

PS Please post the part numbers you use and any comments you might have.

PPS I am going to try the Behr route also I have it on hand for the COE already (going for the older paint color) and what primer did you use?

 

[USMC 00-08]

I sure will post the part numbers if they will tell me what they are. Some people hold that info close.

I used Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer on everything. Seems like people are having great results with it too. I have no complaints so far with it. I like to let it cure for at least a week. Just a personal preference and not sure it really does any good, but it makes me feel better.

 

[USMC 00-08]

The rain forecast is still not cooperating with my painting plans.



While I dodge tornados and wait for it to dry out, I ordered seat covers and cushions from Weebee Webbing. They said the wait time is about 2 weeks. Really looking forward to getting these.

http://www.odcloth.com/

 

[hambone]

I don't think they had cushions when I ordered mine, what was the cost of the cushions?

 

[USMC 00-08]

They told me they had synthetic horse hair cushion and that it was $25 a yard. They were going to measure and send what I need, but they were estimating 3 yards.

Do you have pics of your seat covers?

 

[hambone]

They told me they had synthetic horse hair cushion and that it was $25 a yard. They were going to measure and send what I need, but they were estimating 3 yards.

Do you have pics of your seat covers?

I do have a pic, they are not installed yet, Dave does a great job, I bought some 4" HD foam for the bottoms, my original frames are buried in this pile somewhere.

 

[USMC 00-08]

Those look real good! I plan to use the original springs on mine. They still look decent.