1952 M135 W/Winch

[USMC 00-08]

It is different than the wheels on my other M135's. All the others I have are like the left wheel.

I stand corrected. The wheels on my parts trucks are M35/M211 as well. Just never noticed. Hopefully the spare on #4984 is a M135 rim or I might be searching for a couple of them.


Now to figure out the wiring questions.

 

[m1010plowboy]

Green lawn and sprouting trees

I found the schematic in 9-8024 pages 304 to 307 if that will help. I might not be a mechanic yet but I sure recognize how green everything is down and over there on the map. It's green everywhere it isn't orange, ,,,,very nice.






Just found another pic on pg. 272. It shows wiring with and without the slave-cable........so does that mean????? does it mean???? does it?

 

[USMC 00-08]

That is very close and it most resembles the early style. I just don't see where it shows the 3 wires. Am I missing something or overlooking it?

 

[m1010plowboy]

Is that just a displaced slave receptacle?

On your first picture a cap can be seen at the bottom of the mount. I'm thinking out-loud so fertilizer is flying and it could be an extra wire was added from the "Output" side of the generator, to the slave.......Goose has 3 wires running to the positive side of the passenger battery, like the picture on page 304.



Again, just throwing mono-ammonium, but if wire 4 (pg.304) is coming from the "out-put" side of the generator/regulator and going to the slave.......instead of or in addition to going to the battery then it would/ still function like the original design.

Trace that smaller wire and see where its home is.

 

[USMC 00-08]

Got it figured out. (Pg. 304 of TM9-8024) The two wires hooked to the battery cable are 82 and 4. The other one is 7. It needs hooked back to the dash. What was throwing me off was 4 and how it appears to be run through the engine connector. Adding the "slave battery receptacle" should be easy.

 

[m1010plowboy]

Got it figured out. (Pg. 304 of TM9-8024) The two wires hooked to the battery cable are 82 and 4. The other one is 7. It needs hooked back to the dash. What was throwing me off was 4 and how it appears to be run through the engine connector. Adding the "slave battery receptacle" should be easy.

There ya go! They don't call us Whizz kids because we wet our pants when we were younger.....and now.

 

[Another Ahab]

There ya go! They don't call us Whizz kids because we wet our pants when we were younger.....and now.

You just now reminded me of an old joke, plowboy:

- What's the problem with living on "Q" street?

- You've got to walk a block to "P".


https://media.riffsy.com/videos/2d15691c0938ea48078592a4f0571922/mp4

 

[USMC 00-08]

There ya go! They don't call us Whizz kids because we wet our pants when we were younger.....and now.

Electrical isn't my strong point. Need to work on that.

 

[m1010plowboy]

Electrical, mechanical, heavy lifting ....all the same

Electrical isn't my strong point. Need to work on that.

When you get a SuperDave standing behind you and he says "It's just electrical", makes a farmer feel like certain things can look difficult at first, but after you've done it once....no problemo!

Now we've got some fearless kids tearing into every removable piece of a friend's transmission, nothing seems too difficult. Still fighting some "no reverse" or "sometimes engages" issues so they're stripping parts down, steaming, cleaning, scotch-brite components.....and reassemble.

See how easy I made that look.

 

[SturmTyger380]

From the - Hydra-Matic Transmission Trouble - Shooting Diagnosis Guide.

This can be found in the Sticky - PS – The Preventive Maintenance Monthly for the G749

Possible causes of Transmission Malfunction around the reverse not working:

E3 - Improper oil pressure in reverse, Extensive pressure loss may be caused by missing or miss positioned pressure regulator reverse oil pipe or reverse clutch pipe or lack of reverse booster pressure.

F1 - Pressure loss in reverse. This may be caused by the reverse booster plug missing or sticking in the pressure regulator assembly.

F3 - Pressure regulator plug gasket damaged or missing.

G3 - Manual valve not indexed with outer shift lever.

N1 - Steel locating ball missing from bronze scavenger pump drive gear allowing gear to slip on reverse carrier. Condition may only be apparent when transmission is hot, allowing bronze gear to expand. Also damaged bronze gear.

N4 - Damaged or worn reverse clutch assembly.

N5 - Reverse clutch piston sticking in the rear bearing bore.

N6 - Reverse piston will not engage reverse clutch stationary cone and reverse internal gear caused by worn cone and / or gear.

N7 - Reverse carrier sheared on output shaft.

N8 - Reverse internal gear broken.

 

[USMC 00-08]

View attachment 619990View attachment 619991

That is the TCV right? I just found where it is located. That will be one of the first things I look at when I start working on the orange truck. I know the oil pressures were right.

 

[hendersond]

So, what is on your wish list of G749 parts Paul?

 

[USMC 00-08]

I for sure need a set of rear view mirrors with the arms. Possibly some other things, but I will have a better idea tomorrow.

I'm currently trying to purchase a truck that has rock guards on the bumper, a near new Memphis rebuilt transmission with an REB shift kit and a hardtop. If I don't get it, my list will change. I can't tell if the truck is an M135 or an M211. The data plate says M135 but the rear wheels are throwing me off. The owner only knows what the data plate says and it is 150 miles from me so I can't verify. It doesn't really matter what it is to me at this point.


Let me know of anything you are trying to get rid of and anything you are looking for.

 

[hendersond]

I don't know what I need, maybe time and money!
I have 2 trucks almost done and complete. I plan to cut back further on my inventory of parts. Everything is in cans and out of sight. I will open some this weekend and start sorting. I spent last weekend doing the annual tune and fuel ups on the pair of G749s.
Any way, We have plans of dropping south to Illinois on the old Route 66 this summer. The goal is really New Mexico and Arizona. Then head to the Grand Canyon and up to Denver. We will hit the interstate and head back when we get burned out.
I see you may be very close to the old route 66

 

[USMC 00-08]

I hear you on the time and money thing. Both can sure get scarce at times.

Route 66 is 20 or 30 minutes south of me at most. If you guys go through the Tulsa area, let me know and maybe we can meet up for a meal or you can come over, look at the trucks and we'll cook out or go grab something....whatever everyone feels like doing. Be ready though. It can get hellishly hot down here with very high humidity. It is hard to get used to.

Let me know what you are looking to part with when you get a chance.

 

[SturmTyger380]

Yes please give us a list of goodies!

 

[Another Ahab]

I for sure need a set of rear view mirrors with the arms. Possibly some other things, but I will have a better idea tomorrow.

I'm currently trying to purchase a truck that has rock guards on the bumper, a near new Memphis rebuilt transmission with an REB shift kit and a hardtop
View attachment 621861

Let me know of anything you are trying to get rid of and anything you are looking for.

The truck looks great, but I'm also admiring the quonset hut. I haven't seen one of those in a while.

 

[m1010plowboy]

Tcv

I don't know what I need, maybe time and money!

I just work more and sleep less, gives a guy more time and money.

One item we're all going to need someday is this control valve. We just pulled this one off a new crate transmission to try on a 55 M135 that has been giving us a hard time. The boys re-built the original valve as seen in the previous pictures but the trans was still having symptoms. Farmer neighbour thinks the tolerances are real tight and things may get sloppy enough in the many valves that they aren't repairable after a certain point.....we'll see.

Once they swapped the new one on, the trans was still having symptoms....so they're working on plan B.

It's the first time I've seen one come off by a guy who knew what he was doing. That little curved tube, along with all the other tubes, are just 'pushed in' to place. The curved tube is a bear to get off without squeezing it and is one of the first pieces to remove. I would have snapped a pair of vice grips on it and yanked it off with a bobcat so don't take any advice from the landscaper when removing it. There must be an easy way to do it.



The "Front Band Adjuster" height pin can be seen once the TCV is pulled off the side. I'm slowly starting to take everything apart so I hope you guys are getting plenty of sleep and not working too hard, you're gonna be busy putting all this back together.

 

[USMC 00-08]

We need a transmission rebuild thread so these great pictures and information isn't lost. What should we call the new thread? I'm really interested in seeing what solves the problem on that transmission. I'll be facing this obstacle in the near future.

 

[m1010plowboy]

Not that I'm OCD or rather CDO with the letters properly arranged as they should be.......but I'm a fan of finding....or asking for modification, on a "searchable title name" that the kids will be able to find for the next 500 years.

I've gone through all 5 pages of the "Steel Soldiers Early Deuce Archive" and found this thread......which is pretty darn cool if ya ask my Mom.

Any opposition to "adding" to this gem???


http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?15986-Videos-amp-Photos-of-rebuilding-transmission/page2