1952 M135 W/Winch

[USMC 00-08]

I haven't seen that thread since 2013 and forgot about it, but I think we should start adding to it. It is a really good one.

I might add that I don't mind the information being on my thread at all. I just thought it would be easier for everyone to find in a central location. Good transmission information and pics are hard to come by.

 

[M275Fan]

I can't tell if the truck is an M135 or an M211. The data plate says M135 but the rear wheels are throwing me off
View attachment 621861

Let me know of anything you are trying to get rid of and anything you are looking for.

It looks to me that someone took a M135 and put wheels with the centers flipped on the tandems. The dish does not appear to be deep enough to be running dual or standard deuce wheels in a singled configuration.

 

[USMC 00-08]

Fuel tank vent line question

Yesterday I was checking to make sure all the vent lines on my truck were clear and functioning. I've noticed that the gas tank can build up a lot of pressure.

I loosened the line and found this check valve. It was not moving freely so the gas tank was not venting. I got it freed up, but I don't understand how it is supposed to work. The pictures show how it was configured when I took it apart. It appears the ball and spring can be installed either way. In it's current configuration, it appears that the gas tank can't vent when pressure builds because that pressure would seal the check valve. Am I correct in my thoughts? Should I reverse the way the ball and spring are in there or do away with them altogether?


Last weekend I pulled some parts off of the parts trucks and yesterday installed hood supports on the orange M135.

 

[m1010plowboy]

I'm just betting the big dog that it's not designed to 'vent', rather 'draw' air when fording.

One of the clues was given to me last week when we were discussing the fuel caps. They have 2 positions, fording....locked in full position, and non-fording....one click open. Gaining a stockpile of new parts, my more than experienced Canadian Veteran was explaining the cap design. If the tangs on the tank and lugs on the cap are working properly, our tanks are 'water-proof'.

When preparing for fording, we're supposed to lock the cap down to prevent water from going in the tank. As the fuel is pumped out, a vacuum is created, draws the spring in and pulls the ball away from the tube flange, allowing air to fill the tank.

If your tank is sitting out in the sun I'm thinking we need to be sure the cap is in the non-fording position so expansion can occur. If the cap is in the fording position under normal operations, the ball/ spring assembly should still work and allow air to come into the tank preventing a collapsed tank.

Hanging around the guru's so much I'm beginning to convince myself I actually know how some of the 'venting' systems actually work.

 

[USMC 00-08]

Good info. My gas cap is in the non-fording position so I guess it isn't working. Looks like I need to get a new one. Unless someone knows how to repair them? Please let me know how to do so if anyone does.

I also forgot to mention that while blowing air through the lines and connections to make sure they were clear, I could hear air blowing out around where I think the pinion seal is on the middle axle. That axle does leak gear oil a little bit when I drive. The vent line was clear so time to replace that seal. The rear axle did not let any air escape so it is good for now. I'm working my way forward and got as far as the transfer case. Still have the transmission to check and the front axle. The master cylinder was checked when I replaced it.

That leads me to another thing. The airpak does vent into the top of the breather above the filter. Everything else vents on the firewall so far.

 

[SturmTyger380]

There should be a one way vent on the axle. That might be what you heard. Sometimes the vents can clog causing too much pressure in the axle. Then the axle oil can migrate to the bearings. But if yours are open that's good.

 

[USMC 00-08]

I put a little air into the differential where the vent line bolts in. The rear differential held the little bit of air and it came back out when I moved the air nozzle away. The middle one just leaked air out around where the drive shaft bolts on I think. I hope it is only the pinion seal that needs replaced. Oil does leak out of that area a little when I drive the truck.

 

[USMC 00-08]

I put a shift knob on the orange M135. I've had this knob off a 50's GMC/Chevy manual transmission for a few years. Turns out it works perfect and looks exactly like the one on my other M135. Small victories make me as happy as big ones.



It appears that the shift knobs on the 1950's GMC trucks were the same for military and civilian use. Here is a new replacement I found. Anyone think it is not like what was used on the G749?

 

[Another Ahab]

I put a shift knob on the orange M135. I've had this knob off a 50's GMC/Chevy manual transmission for a few years. Turns out it works perfect and looks exactly like the one on my other M135. Small victories make me as happy as big ones.

You got to celebrate ALL of them.

 

[SturmTyger380]

Do you have a part number? I need one. lol

 

[USMC 00-08]

Here is what I found, but I have not called to see if the thread size is 3/8-24.

http://www.classicindustries.com/product/1950/truck/parts/cx1083.html

If you order one of these and it works, will you let me know so I can add it to the parts list?

 

[Another Ahab]

Here is what I found, but I have not called to see if the thread size is 3/8-24.

If you order one of these and it works, will you let me know so I can add it to the parts list?

That is a great website find; very cool!

 

[m1010plowboy]

Transmission Seal Kits

Finally got a few minutes to mush the huskies off to the post office and send off two seal kits. I'll PM the tracking number to you. They asked how much value we'd put on them for insurance purposes so I explained they may be the last of 10 on the planet and I'd like it if they didn't lose them.....$10.00 please. Let's hope they get these out to you in good shape. They're not packaged but the little lady at the counter did a fine job of taping the original packages together. Get a picture when they arrive so we can all have a laugh.

The boys building the 55' M135 were drooling all over our "G749 Parts list" and would like me to pass on another 'Thank You'. They bought a ton of stuff and have tracked all part #'s which we'll get on the list once things get finished.

I finally flew the last 'parts cab' out of the farm so now it's just getting trucks ready for the first parade on June 4th. PM coming.

 

[USMC 00-08]

Thank you for sending those! Looks like you guys are busy.

So your guys found a bunch more parts #'s ?! That is great!!!

 

[USMC 00-08]

We finally got the welding done on my truck yesterday. Rusted out spots and unnecessary holes were fixed. The antenna hole in the hardtop was patched. I am really happy about it and can start prepping to paint now. I'm ready for this ugly truck to look nice.


Some of the patches look rough, but it is the best we could do. A little body work is in order to smooth things out and I am planning to use Lab Metal. Anyone ever used it? I heard it is a lot better than Bondo.

http://www.alvinproducts.com/ProductLine/tabid/62/aT/View/ProductID/3/Lab-metal.aspx

On to valve adjustment...has anyone tried this method? My dad said that back in the day when he was a mechanic and used to work on old vehicles, this is how they did the valve adjustments. Sure seems like an easy way to me.

http://www.oldgmctrucks.com/photos/valveadjustment.txt

 

[Another Ahab]

Some of the patches look rough, but it is the best we could do. A little body work is in order to smooth things out and I am planning to use Lab Metal. Anyone ever used it? I heard it is a lot better than Bondo.

The stuff sounds too good to be true (like, no primer; just apply!?)

But. Maybe it's as good as they say.

Wonder what the miracle "Lab Solvent" is, and if you really need it (or can substitute something else)?

 

[SturmTyger380]

Lab Metal is great stuff. The curved curved part of my M38A1 axle housing the knuckle seal rides on was rust pitted. I used it to fill those holes and it is still on there. It is tough stuff and hard to sand. Bondo would be easier and faster. Cheaper too.

 

[USMC 00-08]

I have never used Bondo either. I was wanting something that will outlast me and liked the idea of putting metal back on there. How hard are you talking about when you say Lab Metal is hard to sand? Have to use a grinder with a flapper wheel hard or use an orbital sander hard?

I was thinking much the same as you Ahab. Various videos on Youtube make it look neat though.

 

[Another Ahab]

The product video was pretty cheesey, but the stuff looks impressive:

- looks to bond directly (and SOLID) to the polished gloss finish of the lid from the can.

Now THAT is something.

 

[m1010plowboy]

On to valve adjustment...has anyone tried this method? My dad said that back in the day when he was a mechanic and used to work on old vehicles, this is how they did the valve adjustments. Sure seems like an easy way to me.

http://www.oldgmctrucks.com/photos/valveadjustment.txt

That's it! I watched SuperDave go through my valves in less than 20 minutes. Watching is way faster than doing it so it may take me longer next time. SuperDave went up to Fort Mac to drive Nodwells for the firefighters so I'm missing his fat fingers on my 302.

You loosen the keeper nut and turn the slot with a screw-driver. He makes everything look fast and easy so that sets the pace....20 minutes to set the valves. We had #3 exhaust just about at its max so it has wore itself into the head a bit. Something about that valve being closest to the intake means it can be quicker to turn red and mess up the seat.

After 5 years I noticed cracking on most of the filler we put on. Patched a big hole in the back of the cab and added several very thin layers of bondo to the patch. The metal is thin on the cabs and a flexible bondo type mud will probably be best. The kid applied some heavier layers on the tailgate and they popped in 2 years. Seems like cleaning the surface real good with an acetone or non-oil thinner material and several thin applications worked best.

It'll be sooooo good to see another one get paint on it. Get'er done.

Looks Like our parts hit Kamloops and Richmond B.C. for a mountain view on the West side of the map.