• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

1952 M35 Gasser repair and build

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
well, got pan clean. pulled the Oil filter, housing and lines, cleaned that up good. gooped up the pan with Ultra Black, keeping it heavy in the half circles, fought it to get it up and bolted.

got it all up and bolted, started looking at it, and realized I could never get a proper seal at the semi circles, so down it came, cleaned up all the goop(very messy, especially when it hasn't even hardened yet), will get some gasket/cork material tomorrow and make up some gaskets....so that was a good half day wasted
 

NDT

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
10,458
6,530
113
Location
Camp Wood/LC, TX
I really think you need a pan gasket set. Try NAPA, application: Reo Motors OA331. Or try some of the old school surplus dealers such as White Owl. I know the gaskets are out there.
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
Napa doesn't carry anymore( also nearest store is 2+ hrs away now), Autozone can't get any part numbers to cross reference(typical), and I don't like using NOS gaskets, they tend to weep rather fast, which is one of the reasons I haven't called any of the surplus dealers. at this point I have the material, so I'll give it one more shot, I know its a 4 piece design, so that should make it easy to trace and cut out
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
and if that doesn't work I'll contact "White Owl", which actually I have to check my email, I sent them a request for ignition parts a while back...either I missed it or they never replied
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
well got the pan on, small leak in the rear, I think I shifted the gasket trying to get the pan on. had to take carb off again, wouldn't run without choke. but got that all put together, and took a short video. need to figure out my lights, I don't have any headlights hooked up, but I don't have any park/turn signals. I'll post the video later and link it
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
Video, https://youtu.be/1GSeC4vOlIM

also pulled Parking brake assembly and cable, shoes are toast, gonna try to find my dads brake riveter, and get a set of shoes for it. cable moves, not freely but moves, gonna work on that.

will also work on changing other fluids as well, and maybe look at the brakes too...but that may be a little too ambitious.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,280
2,987
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Sounds like you have a miss, and a little exhaust leak. Are all your spark plugs working ? Any bad ignition wires ? How is your "dwell" settings ? Valves adjusted ?
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
yup, have exhaust leak, started a thread here-http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?137952-Exhaust-opinions-for-M35-Gasser- I'm actually undecided on which way to go, so I decided to ask for some opinions

still need tune-up parts, probably needs new wires, have not adjusted valves. I am going to run the old plugs for a bit, just to make sure the rings aren't stuck, PO did drop Mystery Oil down the cylinders, so I'm sure I would be all set to put in my new set, but for the short times I need to use the truck right now, I should be fine to use it as is.
 

RodUSMC1962

New member
1,138
9
0
Location
Northwest, Indiana
When I first got my m-35 Studebaker, dropped the pan, had an inch of crud in the bottom, had to dig it out with a putty knife. Old truck sounds and runs great after the usual pm`s done. :driver:
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
so I got the parking brake apart, linings are toast, and managed to mangle the pin on the lever, and the hole for the outer shoe is ovaled, and gouged up pretty good
Parking brake parts.jpg
also pulled the drivers front tire, and checked out the brakes, seem pretty decent, good linings still, might be a small wheel seal leak, but minor. really just need to make sure I can move it around the yard, get out of the mud pit it sitting in.
Drivers front Brake drum.jpgFront Drivers Brake.jpg
and drained transmission and front diff, tranny was a chocolaty milk brown, front diff was black, using a 5 gallon hand pump, but man it leaks, and my arm hurts now, took almost an two hours to fill both tranny and diff, gonna see if I can't fix the leaking, or just buy a new one.
Tranny drain.jpg

and finally added some brake fluid to the master, pumped the pedal, got some pressure, so maybe enough to move it out of the mud so I can do the rear diffs, and properly go through the braking system.

tomorrow I will try to get the transfer case drained and filled
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
Got a "new" or better fuel tank, little rusty, but a little bit of cleaning and it is coming out better, going to line it with Red Kote, seems to be the best liner out there
M35 001.jpg

No before pics, but here is the old tank for reference of how much better the new one is(Plus no pinholes!)
M35 002.jpgM35 003.jpg

and made an adapter to run the fuel pickup,
Fuel pickup adapter.jpg

Also moved the truck...and forgot to get the camera going, so no Vid, sorry

M35 011.jpgM35 010.jpgM35 007.jpg

kind of interesting, except for height, length and width are pretty close to my dads, GMC 3500 Crew Cab Dually

but gonna completely go through brakes, I filled the master, and had a rather soft pedal, but at least I had something, could just be as easy as cleaning everything, although there is one line on the rear that looks like it got pinched, during some previous tow I'm guessing

And finally, what is the asking/selling price for this style aluminum ladder -NOT for sale- just curious
Ladder.jpgM35 012.jpg
 

cattlerepairman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,256
3,354
113
Location
NORTH (Canada)
And finally, what is the asking/selling price for this style aluminum ladder -NOT for sale- just curious
I can tell you that this is the boarding ladder for the CCKW. It has six treads and is 66 1/2 inches long. The data plate of the MX-3391G aluminum ladder also has a DSA number. These numbers were used from 1962 to 1977, Dr. Google says. Makes sense; CCKWs saw a long service, often overseas.

I can't help you with a price; I'd guess somewhere around 200, perhaps.
 
Last edited:

USMC 00-08

Well-known member
1,183
180
63
Location
Skiatook, OK
That is a neat truck. Keep up the good work!!

This reminds me of everything I have been doing to my 1952 M135. It is really rewarding when things are working right.
 
Last edited:

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
So started tear down on rear brakes, was originally just gonna pull drum, but of course couldn't knock it loose. so I pulled the Hub.

should have just thought to do that first, as I should repack all the bearings and get them clean, but I guess I was also thinking the hub would be lighter without the drum

anyways some pics, I will see what the Mack Bulldog grease is good for, I may use that on the whole truck(easily accessible for me and great grease, just need to make sure it is applicable for the wheels bearings)

For sure gonna do wheel seals, although there seems to be some issues with the newer seals, I guess I will see how it goes
M35 rear brake 002.jpgM35 rear brake 003.jpgM35 rear brake 004.jpgM35 rear brake 005.jpg

so yeah, that was all the grease in there, and the back of the backing plate wasn't as wet as the passenger front rear... so not great, but bearings look good, should be able to reuse them, gonna pull brakes tomorrow maybe, get everything all clean double check the cylinder bores, but if they look as good as the outer lines I may just replace the one line that looks like it got pinched, although it looks fine. will probably invest in a remote reservoir at some point too, just need some more of that green paper stuff that never seems to stay in the wallet....
 
Top