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1953 M38A1 assistance

Bravo2Uniform

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Location
McMinnville, TN
I think group 51R is the only battery that will fit in the battery box which is designed for the military 2HN battery.
Yes, it's the 51 size battery. You should get a 51 and 51R (the R stands for reverse, I think). The 51R has the terminals on the opposite side of the battery, it is easier to hook them up than if you tried to hook up two 51's.
 

Saberr

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Just a side note, check your charging gauge when you get both batts in and running. You have old mech vr, it maybe bad or need adjustment,
 

frasyo

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Just a side note, check your charging gauge when you get both batts in and running. You have old mech vr, it maybe bad or need adjustment,
Thanks for the tip. I'll check the gauge. Not sure how I would go about adjusting it if needed.

Is there a good manual for these jeeps that you would recommend that can explain little things like this so I don't have to bug you guys so much? I found one for the m38 but haven't found an A1 version yet.


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NDT

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Is there a good manual for these jeeps that you would recommend that can explain little things like this so I don't have to bug you guys so much? I found one for the m38 but haven't found an A1 version yet.


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Why that would be TM9-8014.
 

frasyo

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She runs! Even once it started cranking with the new batteries, fuel didn't make it to the filter as I could see it was dry. We had to tow it and bump start it. After that, it started up on its own and drove no problem.

But now, after sitting for a few weeks, it doesn't want to start on its own. Just cranks. Any ideas what I could check here?


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Saberr

Active member
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Location
Temecula,Ca
Sounds like something with your fuel pump. Sounds like the fuel drained back down the line and after the initial crank, the bowl source was used up. Also just got to ask, did you have your choke pulled out when cranking ? If your fuel pump has a handle on it, then use that to prime the top bowl, that may help. Also disconnect the pump outlet and run that hose to carb into a gas can, then crank and see. If it runs, after a few cranks, then its your pump, if not, then carb. Another left field issue may be someone was fiddling and turned the fuel shut off valve closed, that's right before the pump.
 

frasyo

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Thank you guys! Everyone has been a big help. My next question is about the air cleaner and air intake tube. As you can see from the pics, it's clearly missing the air cleaner hose that goes from the carb to the air cleaner. I'm wondering if it's also missing the air intake tube with the forking valve or if that there/ not needed.


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NDT

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Oh, you have what I think is a Solex carb. All you need it a piece of radiator hose to go from the air cleaner to the carb. That is until you want to go back with the factory YS carb. Then you will need the metal tube, the short connecting hose, and the longer flex hose.
 

Dieseljeeper

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Spanaway, wa
You have correct original 24 volt Auto-lite starter, distributor, 25 amp generator, and voltage regulator. No idea what the white thing is. I think group 51R is the only battery that will fit in the battery box which is designed for the military 2HN battery.
The white porcelene piece is a volt a drop. Some of your gauges and/or accessories are 12v and the volt a drop, being a resistor drops the voltage to 12v. On caution, these get very hot. You want to keep anything that you don't want burned away
 

frasyo

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Thanks guys. This has all been a huge help. It's coming together!

One thing I notice is that there is some standing oil on the bottom of the air cleaner. Might have been placed in there or might have come in through the vent tube. Should I drain this or leave it?


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Bravo2Uniform

Member
253
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Location
McMinnville, TN
Thanks guys. This has all been a huge help. It's coming together!

One thing I notice is that there is some standing oil on the bottom of the air cleaner. Might have been placed in there or might have come in through the vent tube. Should I drain this or leave it?


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Leave it. Pretty sure what you are talking about should be there. The air cleaner is an oil bath type and what you are seeing is the oil component.
 

Amer-team

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Centralia/WA
Saberr what's wrong with the fenders? I can only see rt. front and it looks like one of the early reinforced fenders. If that is a 53 doesn't seem to be an issue. Mine is a 53, dead stock, not restored and it has one reinforced and one non reinforced. I think it probably got airdropped hard one time as one of the hat channels is crushed.
 

Amer-team

Well-known member
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You might want to take the bottom of the aircleaner off and clean it. Even though there is oil in it, you should see a fill to line, there could be condensation and the water can cause the bottom to rust and pinhole leak. It is a cheap and easy check and fix if you catch it first.

That looks like a very straight body, you will have some fun with this learning experience.
 

Bravo2Uniform

Member
253
21
18
Location
McMinnville, TN
Saberr what's wrong with the fenders? I can only see rt. front and it looks like one of the early reinforced fenders. If that is a 53 doesn't seem to be an issue. Mine is a 53, dead stock, not restored and it has one reinforced and one non reinforced. I think it probably got airdropped hard one time as one of the hat channels is crushed.
I have the same issue on my '53. I had to replace both front fenders and the replacement ones don't have the 45 degree slash. It's not a problem except I'm a stickler for details like that. I am searching for a wrecked '53 that has good fenders...yeah, good luck with that...
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
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Location
Alexandria, VA
I have the same issue on my '53. I had to replace both front fenders and the replacement ones don't have the 45 degree slash. It's not a problem except I'm a stickler for details like that. I am searching for a wrecked '53 that has good fenders...yeah, good luck with that...
Where do you even start to look!?
 
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