1953 Reo M35 Gasoline OA331 Help...

[ems4ty]

Does anyone have the TM for this Gasoline Version of the OA331 Motor?
I believe its a TM 9-8022 that I am looking for.

Also, about the motor, where the oil filler cap assembly is, just below the cap facing towards the back of the motor there is a fitting that looks like a flare connection should be attached to it. I just bought this truck last week and now that I am looking things over, I have noticed that the this fitting has no lines connected to it. When the motor is running at a decent RPM its spraying/misting oil all of the back of the motor. What is to be connected to this and where does it go? Also, can this port just simply be capped off or would that cause me some more engine problems?

The air filter on this truck appears to be an oil saturated type. There is a band clamp near the bottom of the air filter housing, when you loosen the clamp and remove the bottom cover there is oil sitting in it. Is this normal? Also, how do you change the air filter?

Thanks,

 

[bigmike]

I stumbled across this site looking for manuals for ya. Try e-mailing them also.
http://www.militarymanuals.com/1_by...-army-technical-manuals-mh-47-helicopter.html

I should have the tailgate off and ready for ya in a week or so.

 

[rdixiemiller]

I have a copy of the 8022 manual, and I believe I have another one the way. I'll look this evening and see what the fitting went to and post it.

 

[ems4ty]

That would be awesome! It seems like the previous owner was toying around with things are there are some lines that abandoned and disconnected and I have no idea where anything goes. Apparently, the gassers are hard to come by nowadays.

BTW, I've got electrical issues as well. The wiring harness appears to be original and is shot. The truck came with a new front harness, but when I unraveled it, it appeared to have a couple of different wire connections, possibly for a different type of M35. Is there a true wiring diagram out there that shows the layout as well?

Thanks again for your help!

 

[Barrman]

I also have a '53 REO. There should be two hoses going from the oil filter to the block. If you look at the block directly below the carb, you will see a plate. That plate has 2 holes in it. The top hole on the plate connects to the top fitting on the filter. Of course, the bottom fittings connect as well.

Now, this is a bypass type filter system. Only some of the oil gets filtered at a time. The best thing to do is add a full filter system. There is a wonderfull thread from January about this. I will try to find it and post a link for you.

Yes, it is an oil bath air filter system. You can see on the side of the housing it says "full" or "fill to here" or something like that. That is how high the oil is supposed to be.

 

[JasonS]

The fitting on the rear of the oil filler is the air inlet to the crankcase. DO NOT plug it. It is part of the PCV system. Here is you add a full flow oil filter:

 

[pa.rich]

The air filter is like the M211's. It is the oil bath type. You clean it as needed. You dont need to by a new filter. The first time I took mine apart, I dropped the sump on the ground! So be careful , the bottom pan tends to stick on and then all of a sudden it pops off and phlewy what amess. Mine had a mouse nest in the inlet side of it. Rinse out the innards with kerosine or solvent and wipe everything out. Messy job, but nothing to buy.Repaint it while your at it.

 

[ems4ty]

Barrman, excellent idea on the oil filter conversion. Think I'll pickup a remote adapter and do the same. Seems to be pretty easy.

pa.rich, Still confused on the air filter. I've never dealt with this type of filtration before. Basically, Drop the pan and the drain the oil, then remove the inner parts and clean with kerosine. Then when I go to reinstall the pan, fill it up to the fill line and secure. Is this correct? Wish I had a manual, still searching for one though...

JasonS, if the fitting on the back of the oil filler is a crankcase vent, then why do I mist oil out the port? Is there supposed to be something connected to this fitting such as a filter element of some type?

Maccus, the oil filler has a oil bath in it? Can you elaborate on this a bit? How do you service this part? I didn't get a real good look at it.

I'll take a couple of pics tomorrow and post tomorrow night. Maybe anyone here with a Gasser "Barrman" can take a look at them and compare notes. I would really appreciate it a bunch.

BTW, anyone have the NSN on the Upper and Lower Radiator Hoses and also the fuel filter? The filter is located on the passenger side of the engine compartment on the fender well, blue colored cylinder with a bolt on top to secure the housing. I pulled the filter out to inspect and found no numbers on it anywhere. The filter looks like it has a brownish colored sock over it. Strange to me....

Thanks a bunch for all your help!

 

[Barrman]

Maccus in SD gets all the credit for the oil filter conversion. Those are his pictures and his idea.

Getting the manuals really helps. Italylovers on E-bay has the ones you need. She sells them every now and then. Send her a message. Most of the ones we need sell for around $50+ on E-Bay.

 

[JasonS]

Sorry, but the full flow oil filter was my idea. We are both in SD, though.

If you have oil mist blowing out the oil filler you either have lots of blowby or have overfilled the oil bath filter inside of the oil filler.

 

[ems4ty]

Here's a couple pic's...

Hopefully this will shed some light on the subject. Shown below are some pics that I took today of the engine. Note the oil filler on top of the intake and all the oil on the valve cover. Also, can anyone identify the blue fuel filter canister on the fender well and perhaps more importantly provide a NSN for the filter or a common auto parts part name/number?

 

[BFR]

RE: Here

the blue filter is a fuel filter, which is not original. how are the fuel lines routed? is there still a mechanical pump un the driver's side of the engine?

 

[ems4ty]

RE: Here

There are two pumps on this truck. (1) is on the drivers side of the engine block - mechanical. The other, is a cheapy 12 v pump that was installed on top of the fuel tank, which looks terrible by my standards. If that fuel filter is not original, that I'll probably try to locate a new system and just replace it then.

Thanks,

 

[Barrman]

RE: Here

Sorry about the mis directed credit on the oil filter. I looked at location and "knew" it was the guy in SD.

The fitting on top of your valve cover is supposed to have a valve attached. I will look at mine tonight, but the one on top of the air cleaner with the wire holding it is also part of the fording system. There are 3 valves that make the fording pressure buildup required. The third one is located near the bottom of the carb. There is a vent line that wraps around the back of the engine from near the distributor to the base of the carb. That one might be closed on your truck. Try to open it and see if the blow by spray out the top stops.

The fuel line goes from the mechanical pump to the front of the engine. Over the top of the water pump and then to the carb. You can put a cheap see through filter in the probably already rotted out and replace rubber line between the frame and the fuel pump. (Under the drivers feet.)

 

[Barrman]

I took a picture of each fording valve on the engine a few minutes ago. Only the one on the air cleaner is still hooked to the cable because my cab is coming off soon.

 

[Barrman]

If you look below the really nasty looking air regulator in the second picture. You will see 3 cables coming through the firewall. those are the fording valve cables. They go to a single handle to pull. I have yet to find a spare anywhere. If you see one, grab it because it is what you need.

 

[ems4ty]

Barrman, I see the valves that you show. My truck is a storage yard because its too big to fit in front of my shop like the other one. Anyways, I'll double check mine. Looks like I need to get a valve put on the oil filler. Looking at my previous pic, its seems like I do have one on the base of the carb, but will have to go back and double check for sure. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the military valves (Which I'm assuming that yours are those) are in the "Open" position when the handle is perpendicular to the valve and are "Closed" when the handle is Parallel with the valve, Right? If thats true, then your oil filler and carb valves are "Open" and the air filter valve is "Closed."???

I'll try and pull off the oil filler tomorrow as per "Maccus" suggests. Anything that I can do to keep this pig from spraying the back side of the engine... Rather annoying because it drips down around the Clutch Bell and looks similar to a rear main seal leak.

Thanks again!

 

[Barrman]

Yes, my top valve on the oil filler is closed. That is because I have no hood or any body except for the cab tub right now. Trying to keep the rain/wasp/stuff out of the engine. I reach down and open it before I start the engine though.