1963 M37 - Pre-start checklist

[M-37Bruce]

What did the carb kit cost from VPW. I have a completely different carb on my 53, it's a Zenith model #29 I have gotten an ETW1 but need to rebuild it. There should be a return spring, connected to the bell crank, mounted just above the starter?

 

[ez8]

The carb kit was $59, but I lied, I got it from Midwest military. Apologies. These carbs aren't really that complicated, installation of the parts is just the reverse of disassembly. Be careful of the intake and discharge balls on pump circuit and you'll be golden (you'll get replacements in the rebuild kit, don't worry if you lose them during disassembly).

Thanks for the tip on the throttle spring. I'll look for connection points on the truck.

 

[mdainsd]

The throttle return spring runs from the lug on the throttle rod where it attaches to the bell crank on the intake manifold. The other end goes through a little hole in the pinch weld of the firewall, beside the speedo cable and rear wiring harness.

you can see it in fig, 70 of TM9-8030.

 

[just me]

The throttle return spring runs from the lug on the throttle rod where it attaches to the bell crank on the intake manifold. The other end goes through a little hole in the pinch weld of the firewall, beside the speedo cable and rear wiring harness.

you can see it in fig, 70 of TM9-8030.

That is how mine is done, also.

 

[NAM VET]

There is about a four inch extension rod that attaches to the pinch weld tiny hole, the other end to the near end of the throttle spring. Otherwise, the spring is way too stretched. You can make one out of coat hanger wire. On my truck, the stock location of the spring/tiny "rod" had some interference with the exhaust manifold, so I made up a short piece of flat aluminum, and bolted it to the firewall using one of the bolts already there, moving the whole arrangement away from any interference. Perfectly smooth throttle operation now.

NAM VET

 

[ez8]

Thanks to all for the help on the spring. I found what was left of it dangling from the hole in the firewall pinch weld. I guess in the decade it hasn't run it rotted off. Installed a replacement from the local parts store and we're back in business.

 

[ez8]

I was finally able to drive it under its own power today. I finished running all the brake lines this evening and tomorrow I'll install new slave cylinders and put the brake fluid in, then it should be ready to go!

One new question: Do these engines require a lead substitute, or are the valve seats sufficiently hardened to allow unleaded gasoline?

 

[Evil Dr. Porkchop]

No lead required.

 

[NAM VET]

I don't know for sure about the "lead" question for the valves. On the recommendations of others, can't recall whom, I ordered the RedLine lead substitute from Summit (or was it Jeg's), and did use it. The valve seats are of '40's standards, and may be more protected with "lead". I just had my engine completely re-done by a machine ship, and part of that was new modern valves, and hardened intake seats. He said the exhaust seats, which are hardened, were fine, he just cleaned them up. So I have some "lead" left over, but don't plan on using it. Although, I don't suppose it can hurt, and may use it in my "power-products" if not my 37's engine.

In my small SC city, there are lots of stations now who sell non-ethanol gas, perhaps for all the folks who are in the business of mowing lawns and such. So for sure I use it in my own mowers and other piston tools, and also in my truck. My understanding is that ethanol can corrode or otherwise damage old parts like carb's and such. I just spent thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours re-doing my engine and other parts, so spending a little more for possible added protections is sure worth it to me.

Actually, if I can recall, someone at Vintage Power Wagons suggested a concoction of Rislone, Seafoam, and lead substitute, and if not driven regularly, Sta-Bil in the gas, if the engine was original. My truck ran fine on this, before my complete re-build.

So I cannot say with any authority or actual expertise, that adding a "lead" substitute is necessary or not. But my thought is that lead is cheap, engines are expensive.

Your choice,

NAM VET

 

[just me]

With the drying up of correct spark plugs for these trucks, fouling the ones you have with lead doesn't seem a good idea. They have hardened exhaust seats to begin with.

 

[ez8]

Well, the old gal is back running and driving and most importantly, stopping. I just finished setting the brakes this morning and finally was able to get her up to fourth gear toodling around my property.

The only thing left to do is figure out what's wrong with the generating system (adapter set is on the way so I can do the troubleshooting prescribed in the manual) and follow up on some electrical annoyances. The wire harness itself is in pretty good shape - there's no obvious fraying or exposed wires. I haven't been under the dash yet, but we're getting there.

I also want to thank everyone who's replied to this thread and PM'd me to help so far - you've all been a valuable resource.

 

[ez8]

Took the old gal out on its longest run yet and she performed very well - the generator doesn't charge the system so running just off the batteries is a bit nail biting. Temps stayed at 200 and the oil pressure never dropped to abnormal levels. Plenty of power in all gears and off-road performance was better than anticipated. My next steps are to take the generator off and get it repaired by an automotive electric specialist in town and fiddle with the carburetor settings, then it should just be a matter of enjoying it.

I also picked up 3 was toilet rings so I can seal in the patina before winter. I like the look it has now, it doesn't need any more surface rust.

 

[M543A2]

From experience I certainly recommend the use of the no-alcohol fuel in any older system, especially ones not regularly driven. I have had a lot of parts destroyed by the alcohol fuel, especially carburetor insides and rubber parts in fuel pumps and fuel lines. Fuel tank and line rust will also happen. I find the non-alcohol fuel does not deteriorate as fast either. I have had more than my fill of phase-separation problems with it. Bio-diesel is no better.
We are always happy to when we find older engines that have been out of service for many years be in good condition. Every part in them, especially the valve train, has a coating of black greasy substance that has protected it from rust. I think it is from the paraffin in the old engine oils, possibly non-detergent. I have had a Willys F-head engine, complete with flywheel, starter, generator, carburetor to fan I bought at an auction, sitting in one of my dirt floor sheds for over 20 years with one spark plug out of it. It was from a welding shop that had one of the old portable trailer mounted welders with one as a power unit. He evidently bought this one as a stand-by and never used it. It had set in his shop for who knows how long before I got it. It has a 1943 rebuild tag on it. It had one spark plug out of it and some sand had gotten into the cylinder through the plug hole so I always figured it was gone. This spring after we got a couple of M38's we thought we would get it out and see what it was like even though it was not the same engine they use, expecting a total loss. We pulled the head, vacuumed out the sand, and found it turned over, all of the valves moved, even in the cylinder with the sand clear up to the plug hole!! That cylinder luckily had the piston at TDC, compression stroke. The cylinder walls are in good shape. We can still see some hone marks on them. We just stood there in awe. The pan had some of the thick stuff in the bottom, the crank and rods, cam and lifter bottoms are very clean, and the valve train had the coating I am talking about. There is virtually no ridge in the cylinders. We think clean it up, scratch the cylinders with a hone, new rings and bearings, a valve job and run it. This is not the only old engine we have had that the coating saved beyond expectation. We think some engines have some kind of spirit in them that will not let them die! I believe that kind of luck will not happen with today's detergent oils, especially synthetic. We have later engines that have not been out of service that long that are gone to the point they may not be an economical repair if we try to save them.

 

[ez8]

I wanted to resurrect this thread (temporarily) to give an update on my progress.

I was able to find the problem in my generating system: reversed polarity. I had hooked up the batteries in the same configuration as I found them (I couldn't find a wiring diagram that specified polarity). Once I got that sorted everything worked as designed. The truck runs strong, even in the below 0 weather we've been having here in the Midwest. As long as I bundle up in my carharts I'm comfortable trundling around in 4WD through the snow drifts.

The final thing I need before calling the job done is a fuel tank. I'm thinking I'm going to fabricate a stainless steel tank based on the dimensions of the original one - I'm not convinced the old one is able to be saved (we'll see, I suppose).

As of now it's fully insured, registered and street legal so I've taken it on a few excursions to get building supplies or whatnot. I've found it has a strong gravitational well that tends to pull cars from the oncoming lane into mine ever so slightly as the other driver cranes his head for a better look.

 

[Explorer0863]

Fuel Tank

I had my tank renewed, it had a dime brazed onto a small hole, the guy said if it survived the relining, to leave it in placed, that was 10 years ago. BTW, I did the painless wiring kit, less than $200, nice and clean install too.
Robie's page, G-741.org had some good input on replacement tank, of all things a plastic tank!

Resurrecting this old thread. I did a Google search looking for info on wiring harnesses. What is the painless wiring kit?

 

[M-37Bruce]

Nothing came up? I'll see if I still have the info, initially I found it on a hotrod page, The Rodder's Journal.

 

[M-37Bruce]

I just did an Amazon inquiry, and lots came up, my harness was the minimum size, 9 circuits. The $$ seems to have gone up a bit too?

 

[M-37Bruce]

There's another manufacturer Ron Francis is/was a good one as well.

 

[Explorer0863]

Nothing came up? I'll see if I still have the info, initially I found it on a hotrod page, The Rodder's Journal.

Thanks for the reply Bruce. When I did my first Google search, this thread came up as a result. I'm a new owner (since January) and never heard of the Painless Wiring company until I read your reply to the OP.

I just checked Amazon and didn't find a 9 circuit version of the harness. I also went to https://www.painlessperformance.com/ and didn't find a 9 circuit version either. Do you have a link by any chance?
Tony

 

[M-37Bruce]

The smallest one I saw was 12. I think if you reach out, they might be able to accommodate you for a smaller harness?