1966 deuce trying to start after 17 years of slumber

[outlaw45]

Hello guys I recently acquired a 1966 or 69 kaiser jeep deuce and a half I know its one of those two years because I found the registration in the truck, ok anyways I've done a lot of reading on here.

so far I've got the in tank lift pump working, I'm getting fuel to the fuel filters, I broke a bolt off that is right above what I think is the secondary fuel filter it is a bolt that threads into another bolt type thing right on top of the filter housing I read that with that open it would get the air out of the lines well the bolt broke as it was threaded down after draining all the air as when I tightened the bolt down fuel would squirt out of the drain valves, so I have to find another of those pieces, I checked and made sure that the fuel shut off switch inside the injection pump was moving and it seems to be working good, I'm going to check the hh plunger next how do I get that bolt out of their? it's pretty tight in between those injection lines.

ok sorry for the huge paragraph but anyways the truck will start on ether for a second, it has a new air filter on it, I've checked the oil, and coolant.

thanks for any help and ideas guys!

 

[porkysplace]

Your going to need to download the TM's they are free to download here
[h=3]TM's for the Deuce[/h]start with these
[h=3]TM9-2320-209-10-1.pdf
TM9-2320-209-10-1 Operation, Installation and Reference data for the M35 series, Operator Level.[/h]TM9-2320-209-10-3.pdf
TM9-2320-209-10-3 Troubleshooting Operator level M35 Multifuel
TM9-2320-209-20-2-1.pdf
TM9-2320-209-20-2-1 Organization level - Troubleshooting Multifuel M35 Part 1 of 2.

TM9-2320-209-20-2-2.pdf
TM9-2320-209-20-2-2 Organization level - Troubleshooting Multifuel M35 Part 2 of 2.
TM9-2320-209-20-2-1.pdf
TM9-2320-209-20-2-1 Organization level - Troubleshooting Multifuel M35 Part 1 of 2.


TM9-2320-209-20-2-2.pdf
TM9-2320-209-20-2-2 Organization level - Troubleshooting Multifuel M35 Part 2 of 2. Parts manual with diagrams
TM9-2320-209-34-1.pdf
TM9-2320-209-34-1 Troubleshooting Direct and General Support Levels.
TM9-2320-209-34P.pdf
TM9-2320-209-34P Direct and General Maintenance and Support Parts and Special tools

 

[cattlerepairman]

"Moving" might not be good enough for the fuel shutoff. It is a bit of a bugg** because it can look as if it were working , but isn't. Maybe this helps: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?103256-M35A2-no-fuel-at-injectors
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?58255-M35A2-fuel-to-injectors-diagnostic-issue

Here is a post with a pic and info on where to find it in the TM: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?32973-Another-M35A2-will-not-start

Before you tear into the hydraulic head, loosen a couple of injector lines, wrap a shop towel around them, crank the engine and see if you soak the shop towels in fuel. If it all stays dry, then the plunger is a good next step. I would probably tap the HH from the outside a few times, just in case Murphy is watching and looking for a cheap laugh.

Yes, there is not much space between the injector lines. Clean everything well with brake cleaner, push the rubber cups up on the lines and remove injector lines as needed.
Use a brake line wrench if you have one to avoid rounding off the injection line fittings.

Offhand, I am not sure which bolt you broke. Take a picture. Someone might have one.

 

[gimpyrobb]

He didn't break a bolt, he broke the bleeder on the secondarys(from how I read it). If the fuel gets to the filters and the fuel shut-off moves freely, I'd check the oil and try to fire her up. No need to potentially break parts that don't need to be messed with.

Just make sure your ready to dump the clutch to kill the motor if it tries to run away.

 

[phil2968]

Just make sure your ready to dump the clutch to kill the motor if it tries to run away.

5th gear and in high range goes with out saying,

 

[61sleepercab]

I would make sure the valves are loose before trying to start the engine by using wrench to turn engine over several times to prevent bending push rods and valves . I ruined a camshaft from a stuck valve even when turning engine over by breaker bar. Lots of time I take valve cover off and tap valves and rocker arms to make sure valves are free in an engine sitting a while. I will save the story of the corn filled intake manifold engine for later. Mark

 

[gimpyrobb]

I will save the story of the corn filled intake manifold engine for later. Mark

Do tell, do tell!


If you posted about it here, I vaguely remember the tale.

 

[rustystud]

I would make sure the valves are loose before trying to start the engine by using wrench to turn engine over several times to prevent bending push rods and valves . I ruined a camshaft from a stuck valve even when turning engine over by breaker bar. Lots of time I take valve cover off and tap valves and rocker arms to make sure valves are free in an engine sitting a while. I will save the story of the corn filled intake manifold engine for later. Mark

I have also come across stuck valves in a engine that wasn't run for over 5 years. After using a good "panther piss" on everything, I tapped each valve with a hard rubber mallet until they would bounce up and down. Also if the engine hasn't been bared over yet, I would take out the injectors and spray in some good rust remover and lubricant like "PB Blaster" . The rings can rust to the cylinder walls so hard that they are almost like one piece of metal. If the engine bars over OK, and the oil looks OK, then go ahead and try and start it up. But just like Phil and Gimp said, be prepared to shut down quickly and hope you have a good clutch.

 

[outlaw45]

Ok thanks you guys, I do believe what I broke is the secondary bleeder it looked like a bolt lol, I'll try to get a picture of it sometime it prolly won't be today I have to take my dad to physical therapy. So in the mean time I'll read these tm's. The engine turns over really good. Thanks again guys!

 

[outlaw45]

Ok I've read some of the tm's and have inspected the fuel lines and haven't seen anything leaking or loose, I took the bolt that is over top the plunger out and it's stuck not moving at all so I am soaking it with pb blaster I tapped the hh with a brass hammer and tapped the plunger softly with a ratchet so I am going to let it soak for a while and try in a day or two.

 

[outlaw45]

Ok well we fixed the fuel pump now, I have fuel to the secondary filters, and I pulled the bolt on the hh and rolled the engine over and got fuel to squirt out of the hole so I assume the plunger is moving? I cracked the back three injection lines and cranked it but didn't get any fuel so I'm guessing their could be air in the line coming from the filters to the injection pump.

thanks again for the help guys!

 

[m-35tom]

have you pre lubed the engine? lubed the turbo? after 17 years there won't be any oil left.

 

[61sleepercab]

Once engine and valves are loose, you can prelube by cranking the engine over with fuel kill knob pulled out to build up pressure without starting. Make sure fuel kill rod works or you may be on youtube with runaway engine . I would suggest a oil sample be sent off for analysis to have a baseline for engine condition. Heavy equipment dealers have kits for about $15=20.00 a sample. Good way to see bearing wear, fuel contamination , water contamination etc. Have fun. Mark

 

[m-35tom]

Once engine and valves are loose, you can prelube by cranking the engine over with fuel kill knob pulled out to build up pressure without starting. Make sure fuel kill rod works or you may be on youtube with runaway engine . I would suggest a oil sample be sent off for analysis to have a baseline for engine condition. Heavy equipment dealers have kits for about $15=20.00 a sample. Good way to see bearing wear, fuel contamination , water contamination etc. Have fun. Mark

i would take the filters off and fill the oil passages first. just cranking it would be hard both on the starter and the dry bearings, you know how long it takes to fill everything even with it running. one that i started after 18 years in a field had the turbo stuck from exhaust carbon and dried oil. take the oil line off and pour some oil in there and remove the intake pipe and make sure it turns.

 

[outlaw45]

I don't have a turbo engine and yes I've pre lubed everything and built the oil pressure up now it's just a matter of getting fuel to the injectors and the shut off seems to be working like it should I removed the cover and it moves free inside

 

[outlaw45]

Ok guys i think i have the hydraulic head plunger moving like it should if the bolt is out and the engine cranking fuel squirts out of the hole so i put the bolt back and loosened some injection lines and i can't for the life of me get any fuel to come out of the lines! I have bleed the fuel system up to the injection pump so their should be no air except for the injection pump is their any bleeder on the injection pump itself? I found a little bolt going into the side of the injection pump by the lower left nut and stud that hold the hh down. is that some sort of bleeder?

 

[Jeepsinker]

That is not a bleeder. DO NOT REMOVE that bolt. Sounds like the shutdown lever is stuck shut.

 

[Another Ahab]

Wonder What Happens if I....

That is not a bleeder. DO NOT REMOVE that bolt. Sounds like the shutdown lever is stuck shut.

 

[m-35tom]

right, do not ever remove that plug on the side, it is the delivery check valve. was fuel actually being pumped out the top plug or was it just pushing fuel up and down? if the plunger was stuck then there is a fair chance the disk fell off the bottom. loosen a cou[le of lines at the HH and see if fuel comes out there at full throttle. also it if does, see it it stops when you move the lever to stop position. if all this fails you may as well pull the HH, it is fairly easy. are you POSITIVE the engine ran when last shut down?

 

[outlaw45]

Yes the guy we got it from said he drove it their and parked it and when I was cranking it with the bolt out fuel was coming out and hitting the inner fender sorry I haven't posted anything but it is just to **** cold out to mess with it.