1984 M1028 issue tracker.

[Droolguy]

Hello everyone,

I am just posting this thread up so that I can keep track of issues related to my new to me (2 days old) CUCV and ask for help without making a ton of threads.

If you read about an issue and it doesn't have "solved" next to it in the list I have below I still need help either figuring out if it is normal or fixing it.

Bear with me as this is my first diesel ever so I really don't know what is normal.

Thanks everybody for your time, and I look forward to talking to you all.

1. Light blowby at oil fill, apparently normal.

2. Screeching GEN2 alternator belt, solved, tightened.

3. GEN 2 warning light on when vehicle off, stays on after engine starts, goes off once engine warms up seemingly at random, meter in truck shows neutral charge when light is on goes to just a hair below the mark in green sector when light turns off.
----3a. GEN 1 warning light now comes on intermittently, seems to be mostly at idle. In truck meter now showing a hair under overcharge after GEN 1 light came on and went off.

4. Ringing sound coming from oil fill tube when the cap is off. Normal or issue? VIDEO @ https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Z3WKjZXa3saWARyMpscWhGipEtS8Hop-

5. Glow plug wait light takes almost 20 seconds to go off on first start of day @ 70 degrees outside temperature, normal or issue?
---- 5a. Tested glowplug resistance, all at 1.3-1.6 OHM.

6. Very hard starting first start of day, regardless of temperature. Crank for 15+ seconds before fires. Need to use throttle to keep from dying after start until it rolls up to operating RPM. RPM slowly increases until it levels off, then can release and it will idle.
----6a. Has fuel leak, can contribute to air in fuel lines according to SS search, will troubleshoot.

 

[NDT]

Welcome. I will chime in on 6, until the fuel leak is fixed, starting will be difficult. Often the fuel filter base is to blame. Also, check your glow plugs for continuity. When those are burned out, 6.2s hate to start.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Welcome. I will chime in on 6, until the fuel leak is fixed, starting will be difficult. Often the fuel filter base is to blame. Also, check your glow plugs for continuity. When those are burned out, 6.2s hate to start.

Yup. Fix known problems first, then look for others. Hard starting might be 100% due to those fuel leaks, but until they are fixed, you won't know.

GPs are easy to check, a common problem, and easy to fix.

Nail those two and you have a very good chance of being all good. If not, we'll go from there.

Welcome to the sickness. You are doomed.

 

[Droolguy]

Thanks all. Going to track down and fix the fuel leak tomorrow if the parts are readily available.

Changed the oil yesterday since the previous owner said "I don't know" when asked when the oil was last changed.

Going to check the glow plugs today.

Also had the Gen 1 light flash at me today while in the Taco Bell drive through, in cab meter when both lights out now reads just a hair under overcharge, adding it to the list.

 

[Droolguy]

Note to self, editing the main post apparently removes it. Do the moderators have to approve each edit? If so I might as well just make separate threads for everything as that was what I was trying to avoid to reduce both our workloads.

 

[M813rc]

No, something else went wrong. Holler at the admins and see if they can recover it.

Cheers

 

[Droolguy]

So, the fuel filter base has no leaks around the housing that I can tell, fuel appears to be leaking from the IP.

Managed to kill the batteries and don't have two cars to jump it, new priority 1 is to convert it to 12V so that it can be reliably jumped and I can get rid of that resistor bank.

 

[cucvrus]

Making it 12 volt won't make it start easier. Fix the problem. A rebuilt injection pump cost about $400. US and it will retain it's value as a CUCV. But do as you wish. Many times people dance around the issue and do this and that trying to avoid fixing the real issue. It's a simple task. Do it right the first time. It will still leak fuel and start hard even when it's 12 volt. Have a Great Day.

 

[Droolguy]

I was going to convert to 12v for ease of recovery, not to fix the issue, still need to redo the IP.

I bought this truck for a work truck for a Veterans nonprofit organization, meaning it does need to be dead reliable, which from what I have read the 6.2 can provide, as long as you ditch some of the military specific stuff. Also if it's going to start hard enough that I have to jump it every other day to move it around until I can get a new IP then I want to be able to hook it up to one other vehicle, not two.

I get that some people see this as sacrilege but I expect it to function and the 24/12 system is un-needed complexity that at best does nothing, and at worst fries glow plugs and contributes to all kinds of electrical problems.

TLDR: Work truck, not collectors item, so unconcerned with modifications.

 

[Droolguy]

...Also, check your glow plugs for continuity. When those are burned out, 6.2s hate to start.

Checked, 1.3 to 1.6 on all, so we are good there.

 

[patracy]

Note to self, editing the main post apparently removes it. Do the moderators have to approve each edit? If so I might as well just make separate threads for everything as that was what I was trying to avoid to reduce both our workloads.

Post counts under 10 with links get set to moderation to prevent spammers. I re-approved the post.

 

[Droolguy]

I still don't see it.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

.... from what I have read the 6.2 can provide, as long as you ditch some of the military specific stuff. .... the 24/12 system is un-needed complexity that at best does nothing, and at worst fries glow plugs and contributes to all kinds of electrical problems.

Nah. I'm certainly no purist (see my sig), but other than bypassing the resistor bank, there's really only one thing to gain from getting rid of the "military stuff", and that's the ability to jump from civilian vehicles.

Unless you count the hassle of sometimes bumping the blackout light switches and killing your lights. When I get some time I'm going to rip mine out.

As far as converting to 12v, if you do, remember you need twice the amps, so you'll be well advised to install new battery & starter cables. Don't just re-route the existing wiring.

Here's a good source for custom cables: www.bestboatwire.com I like to get them with the clear heat-shrink on the ends so I can see what's going on under the hood.

 

[patracy]

I still don't see it.

Got a phone call before I could click submit on the restore. It's up now.