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WOW , some ride , lots of tires , gives new meaning to put the rubber on the road ! LOL
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
1986 CUCV M1009 Decade after being wrecked.
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cucvrus
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https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/348986529044710/
Also seen this For Sale. Thought someone might like it and need some parts from it.
Also seen this For Sale. Thought someone might like it and need some parts from it.
cucvrus
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Whoomp there it is. I broke into the barn today. But temperatures went south real quick. That made a set back. Oh well. All is well. The Kubota was out in the snow a few times this winter. Soon time for grass cutting duty. Have a Great Day.
cucvrus
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Just something to consider if you have a CUCV with the upper battery support hold downs missing. Gravity is all that was holding the front battery in this M1009. I see people put both batteries on the front tray and never consider the weight that are adding to that inner fender. Do as you wish. Just sharing that top battery hold down does a lot when tying some of the weight into the upper fender assembly. One good bump and this CUCV could have burnt to the ground. Just sharing. Have you looked at your inner fenders lately? Hope my post helps save a CUCV somewhere. Ratchet straps are great tie downs. But the batteries need held up and held down.
cucvrus
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I bought a pair of right inner fender aprons. WOW these have gone up in price. The shipping is just as much as the fender when you buy one. So I bought 2 and kept them at a lower price. I remember when GM new picked up at the dealer cost me $31. the front fenders were $84. and a new GM door shell was $170. Them days are over. I am currently working on an m1009 in my driveway and it needs a right inner fender. I had new battery cables made up also. From the crimped bolted rigged up lead ends to the sealed and new steel ends. Better set up all around. I did NOT spray the inner fenders with the new truck sitting there. Have a Great Day. Time to get out and work. I was at my job from 0400- 1600. I made a simple goal and coated the inner fenders.Attachments
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The dreaded "new truck" finally arrived? Congrats Rick! No more cucv daily driving.....
mbo
mbo
cucvrus
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Where have you been? It arrived over 2 months ago. Yes no more CUCV driving as my daily. I reposted the pictures for your viewing. The new truck was built 01/02/2019 The new truck was delivered to me 01/15/2019 at my worksite. The whole experience was cool to see it come right off the carrier and then drive it to the dealer to pay and do the paperwork. I shared the pictures in the guilty pleasures thread. Funny thing is I don't have any guilt. Been driving in comfort since the day it arrived. Have a Great Day. Tomorrow looks like a nice day for some work after services.
cucvrus
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I removed the right inner fender from a customers M1009
The radiator is sitting flat on the steel support. The isolators retired and moved inward. 
The left inner fender is NOT much better. It does not have the battery weight to support so I will let that up to the owner. Have a Great Day.
cucvrus
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I seen this picture on the internet and thought that would be an awesome bed. I remember when you could get a 10 ft bed on a Chevrolet pickup truck. It was 1979-1980. I only ever remember seeing one at the dealership. But if this picture is real and not photo shopped I doubt you could load anything full in that bed other then Styrofoam or cotton balls. NICE BED MAN. Wouldn't be a very good 4 X 4 truck. Approach and departure angle are gone for sure. Have a Great Day.
cucvrus
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Beautiful day here in South Central PA. I hope to pull the M1009 rebuild out in the sun. I want to get the garage cleaned out and ready for 7 months of hard CUCV work. I will find out if may batteries held out since last year and if it starts on the first glow. I am optimistic. I have it wired as stock and ready to go. I have customers CUCV's lining my driveway for repairs and upgrades. Another one Mr. Rusty just arrived for a new flex plate and transmission cooler lines. It has a few minor fluid leaks that need addressed. I have till November to get that one done. I will report back later with pictures if progress takes place today. I did notice 2 drops of oil under my M1009 rebuild. 1 from the engine drain plug and 1 from the transmission drain plug. Why is all I have to say. I will buy new ones and do the quick change. That's the way to get that fixed quick. Minor fluid loss expected. Have a Great Day. The sun is shining and I am burning daylight.
cucvrus
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Vent hose severed at front axle
Oil leak at right valve cover.
Torn driveshaft boot
Steering damper has leaked all the oil. Nice tie rod ends. No grease and no rubbers. My good intentions were quickly side tracked. I had a call from a friend that needed my assistance. I was able to get a few pictures of current issues of a customers lifted M1009. When I get started I don't know where to end. Sometimes they become a labor money pit. But everything can be fixed. More progress later date. I gave it a real effort today. But friends need my help I help.
cucvrus
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cucvrus
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How can that front sway bar work? it is not even tight in the bracket. The shackle bushings are wasted and the sway bar to spring bushings are gone. What is the green plate and why is it there? Looks like savage work to me. https://youtu.be/jM8dCGIm6yc
cucvrus
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I'm asking about the lift kit. It is a 4" and has blocks in the rear and springs up front. I hate lift kits with a passion. Must the spacers be in the sway bar brackets? I don't see the bar being effective with the sloop that bar has. And the bushings are worn out. I think with new bushings and the stock brackets everything can get back in place and tight. Anyone know? I am guessing. If it were mine the lift kit would go in the scrap bin and I would get it looking nice again. The CUCV I am working on is an M1009.
richingalveston
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check ORD for the sway bar disconnect set up to see how far the drop is. I think the bar has do be dropped more than what the current green block is doing. but it won't be 4 inches. some additional slope in the bar is ok. as long as the bushings are good. I would imagine that front end was very noisy. with more angle on the bar, the less leverage it has to lift the other side when you hit a bump causing more flex in the bar than what it was designed for.
richingalveston
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http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/swaybarkit.htm
Kit, goes where the sway bar attaches to axle, raises back of sway bar 2 inches, so half the distance of the lift and can be disconnected when off road. it also incorporates shackles where it connects giving it some movement front to back when the springs flex. I want to put this back on my truck but I don't have my old one. I need the bar, and the top plates that are on the axle.
Kit, goes where the sway bar attaches to axle, raises back of sway bar 2 inches, so half the distance of the lift and can be disconnected when off road. it also incorporates shackles where it connects giving it some movement front to back when the springs flex. I want to put this back on my truck but I don't have my old one. I need the bar, and the top plates that are on the axle.
cucvrus
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What is the little L bracket included in the kit?
Forget it. I guess that is to hold the sway bar up when disconnected. I will suggest this. But I would rather pitch the springs and blocks and go down on a stock suspension. Worked a long time for me. Thank you.
Forget it. I guess that is to hold the sway bar up when disconnected. I will suggest this. But I would rather pitch the springs and blocks and go down on a stock suspension. Worked a long time for me. Thank you.
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cucvrus
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I was outside in the beautiful sunshine working on my customers M1009. Every where I looked I found issues and parts messed up. Over all it is a good vehicle. It needs some TLC. It has lots of little issues and missing parts and fasteners here and there. Just like most I get to see. I am doing my best to get it back in functional condition for the customer. First I needed to get the injection line clamps in place. Bending the injection lines is not my favorite thing to do. But I can hardly get the time and money involved removing the intake and injection pump. All will be well. I have both valve covers off the engine. it was a real task. The valve covers had released from the heads due to time I assume. I had valve covers I beat and pried to get off in the past. these were just barely held on. I think it is the original GM sealer that was holding them on. I have a set of gaskets and will use the right stuff. It takes a bit of time to get the heads cleaned
up and carefully remove the old orange Permatex. I used the shop vacuum to keep cleaning as I went along with a small stainless steel brush and scrapper. I found lots of little issues as I proceeded. Missing fasteners and poor connections. Check out that injection pump main feed wire. Nice crimp man. I'm not done yet.
cucvrus
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Everything went well today. It is a slow process and requires a lot of patience. I also was very dirty when I was completed. A lot of poor work was done. Overall the M1009 is in good condition. It needs some TLC and I am the guy to get that done. I am going to pull the radiator out and get it checked at a radiator shop. I want to keep the cost low but a lot of little things and time add up quickly. Take care I will keep you all posted.