1986 M1008 5/4 CUCV

[Deer Creek Farm]

Glad I found this forum. Long time square body guy but first time CUCV owner. I just purchased an 1986 Chevy M1008 regular cab long bed five quarter ton truck. Truck is in pretty good shape, rust in common areas (rockers and cab corners). It’s still on the 24v system. The kid I got it from was trying to fix it up like a modern truck. He put exhaust stacks in the bed and then added off-road lights and an electric train horn. He said one he added all that, the truck wouldn’t start anymore. Said he replaced the batteries and starter with no luck.
So while there looking at it, I rotate the engine to make sure it’s not locked up and checked the oil and all fluids for that matter. Everything checked out fine. All dash lights came on glow plugs seemed to be working fine and when you turn the key, you can hear the starter engaging but not turning anything. I trailer it home and was looking at how he had the batteries connected and they were set up like a 12v system (pos to pos to power block on firewall to starter). So I switched it to beg to pos to block to starter. Still same thing. I was wondering if when he replaced the starter, if he replaced it with a 12v starter and if this would cause what I’m seeing? Or could it be I just need to get rid of the rats nest of wiring he has under the hood. He may have something grounded out somewhere.
Where do I get a 24v starter? Is there a sponsor here that everyone recommends?
Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Tracer]

First welcome aboard! Second click Home on the Steel Soldiers tool bar, and the TMs section will come up, the second TM is for CUCV trucks. Find the year and model of truck you have and read through. You will find everything you wanted to know about your truck and more. Hope this helps.

 

[87cr250r]

Ideally, you want a Delco 28MT starter but they are rare in the GM pad mount configuration. Aftermarket pad mount noses are available. You can buy any other 28MT and convert it to pad mount by buying the aftermarket nose. If the pinion doesn't match those are available aftermarket as well.

 

[dougco1]

Glad I found this forum. Long time square body guy but first time CUCV owner. I just purchased an 1986 Chevy M1008 regular cab long bed five quarter ton truck. Truck is in pretty good shape, rust in common areas (rockers and cab corners). It’s still on the 24v system. The kid I got it from was trying to fix it up like a modern truck. He put exhaust stacks in the bed and then added off-road lights and an electric train horn. He said one he added all that, the truck wouldn’t start anymore. Said he replaced the batteries and starter with no luck.
So while there looking at it, I rotate the engine to make sure it’s not locked up and checked the oil and all fluids for that matter. Everything checked out fine. All dash lights came on glow plugs seemed to be working fine and when you turn the key, you can hear the starter engaging but not turning anything. I trailer it home and was looking at how he had the batteries connected and they were set up like a 12v system (pos to pos to power block on firewall to starter). So I switched it to beg to pos to block to starter. Still same thing. I was wondering if when he replaced the starter, if he replaced it with a 12v starter and if this would cause what I’m seeing? Or could it be I just need to get rid of the rats nest of wiring he has under the hood. He may have something grounded out somewhere.
Where do I get a 24v starter? Is there a sponsor here that everyone recommends?
Thanks in advance for any help.

Welcome aboard.

You will find tons of goodness and info on this site.

Things to do while fixing your ride:
Search. search, search, the post.
Read, read, read, your TMs.
Ask, ask, ask, questions.
And when looking for or ordering parts, order for a 1984 not a 1986. The military specked them all to be built to 1984 standards for logistical reasons.

IMHO: Try to keep it as original as possible and try not to reinvent the wheel.

Good luck with your project

 

[sbgarage]

Welcome to the forum, I recognize your handle from DieselPlace.

 

[Deer Creek Farm]

Okay she's up and running!!!

Thanks for all the advice. Got rid of the rat's nest of accessory wires, returned battery wiring back to factory, 24v in series and she purrs like a kitten. (like a kitten chewing on rocks like most 6.2's). Now we start the restoration back to original/modified M1008. Modified will be 4" lift with a little larger tires.

I have one more question; There is a round knob just above the hood release and I've looked in my TM 9-2320-289-10 but it has everything but that knob labeled (see attached picture). It's the know right above 27 (hood release handle). Can some body tell me what that is? Maybe a manual prime, not sure.

 

[Deer Creek Farm]

Welcome to the forum, I recognize your handle from DieselPlace.

Hey there. Yeah I purchased my first CUCV M1008 and it's a little different. Im on it with the 6.2 Diesel but the whole 24v thing was messing me up but I got it running like she should now.

 

[Tracer]

Nice to hear you've got her running. Keep us posted on your progress. And pictures are always welcome.

 

[antennaclimber]

The knob in question is to open the vent down by the drivers left foot. There is one on the passenger side as well.
Pulling on it opens the vent, pushing it in closes the vent. Use caution, 40 year old plastic can become very brittle.

 

[Deer Creek Farm]

The knob in question is to open the vent down by the drivers left foot. There is one on the passenger side as well.
Pulling on it opens the vent, pushing it in closes the vent. Use caution, 40 year old plastic can become very brittle.

Thank you, very helpful.

 

[Deer Creek Farm]

Here’s a few pics from when I trailered it home. Removed the 37’s, roll bars and stacks coming through the bed. I dropped off the correct front & rear CUCV bumpers and brush guard at the powder coater’s in Star, NC today and the New exhaust goes on Thursday.

 

[nyoffroad]

I could live with the bumpers and the roll bar, those stacks would go, but why the heck would did the dumb PO spray it with bed liner? With me that would have to go or maybe a deal killer.

 

[Deer Creek Farm]

I could live with the bumpers and the roll bar, those stacks would go, but why the heck would did the dumb PO spray it with bed liner? With me that would have to go or maybe a deal killer.

It wasn’t a deal breaker but it most definitely brought my offer price down. I have a replacement bed, doors and front clip so all I’ll have to do is strip down the bed liner on the cab then repair a hole (rot) in the driver side door jam / rocker panel then get her painted up.

She got a new exhaust system today so the stacks are gone. Bled the brakes but I’m thinking the break lines have a leak somewhere or the master cylinder is going out because the pedal will tighten up for a second then get spongy again with the dash brake light coming on. So that’s something I will have to figure out and address.

 

[CARC686]

It wasn’t a deal breaker but it most definitely brought my offer price down. I have a replacement bed, doors and front clip so all I’ll have to do is strip down the bed liner on the cab then repair a hole (rot) in the driver side door jam / rocker panel then get her painted up.

She got a new exhaust system today so the stacks are gone. Bled the brakes but I’m thinking the break lines have a leak somewhere or the master cylinder is going out because the pedal will tighten up for a second then get spongy again with the dash brake light coming on. So that’s something I will have to figure out and address.

As I understand it, the proportioning valve can give people fits when trying to bleed the brakes on the CUCVs. I had thought to delete mine, but then I was glad it was there during a catastrophic failure.

 

[nyoffroad]

It wasn’t a deal breaker but it most definitely brought my offer price down. I have a replacement bed, doors and front clip so all I’ll have to do is strip down the bed liner on the cab then repair a hole (rot) in the driver side door jam / rocker panel then get her painted up.

She got a new exhaust system today so the stacks are gone. Bled the brakes but I’m thinking the break lines have a leak somewhere or the master cylinder is going out because the pedal will tighten up for a second then get spongy again with the dash brake light coming on. So that’s something I will have to figure out and address.

Nice to have spare parts like that! I didn't mean to sound like I was degrading your truck and apologize for coming off that way. Glad to hear about just the cab, hopefully the PO didn't sand the paint very well before bed lining it.

 

[Deer Creek Farm]

Nice to have spare parts like that! I didn't mean to sound like I was degrading your truck and apologize for coming off that way. Glad to hear about just the cab, hopefully the PO didn't sand the paint very well before bed lining it.

I didn’t take it that way man. I’ve been driving square bodies for over 35 years and when I would find a good deal on a “no title” truck or “no engine” or “no transmission “ truck, I would snatch it up. So over the years I’ve created a little square body grave yard. My problem is all I do is diesel and most of my parts trucks are all gas.