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2.5/ 5 ton wheel question

M1075

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Those wheels look good. Have you mounted a tire on one yet? My concern with a bolt in 3rd plate was being able to get everything bolted together when you have a tire and maybe a beadlock working against you. My solution was to change out a few studs with longer ones to get things seating up properly.
 

Jakob

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Either way doesn't seem too bad. Lug nut access seems a little limited though. An easy way to fix that would be to trim the 5-ton side by "connecting the dots" with a OA torch or plasma cutter. It seems like that method makes the wheels stick out a few more inches than custom wheels.
 

avengeusa

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Those wheels look good. Have you mounted a tire on one yet? My concern with a bolt in 3rd plate was being able to get everything bolted together when you have a tire and maybe a beadlock working against you. My solution was to change out a few studs with longer ones to get things seating up properly.
I am planning on a weld also.....

I was not sure if i wanted them all set up like the front, as in flipping the hubs, or if i wanted to leave the hubs and run them as is, the bolt in deal is to make it easy for the do it yourselfers.....
 

SuperJoe

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it seems like a good idea. the questions that have arose seem as if they could be answered with a pic of the other side of the wheel. are there any??
 

Wozdirt

Member
I have modified my own with hemtt wheels, it is easy to get at the lugs, those wheels look like it may be harder to reach them......

here is a pic of mine....
Avengeusa, do you have the deuce pattern center sandwiched in between the inner and outer rim halves? (it looks like in the picture) If so? how did you get the o-ring between the two rim halves to seal?

I also have hemmt rims on my deuce but, I ended up welding the deuce center into the inner (deep offset portion of the rim)
 

SuperJoe

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i want to build similar plates on the laser. what thickness are they? would a 3/8s plate welded both sides to the hemtt wheels be strong enough at a total of 12 inches max across? or do i need a thicker one? what are the ones made of in the photos?
 

spicergear

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On the wheels with the 10 hole center still on...the center hole for the wheel runs about the same diameter as the center bolt circle on the deuce lugs, about 8-3/4" so accessing the lugs behind them *shouldn't* be too difficult but will be on a limited angle. Also keep in mind this type of wheel will be carrying a lot of extra weight due to still having that 10 hole center still there. 5 ton bead locks are not light wheels and the pressed centers are pretty stoudt. A replacement plate style center should be of adequate thickness to make up for not being pressed into a shape to enhance its strength.
 

ETHOS

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i want to build similar plates on the laser. what thickness are they? would a 3/8s plate welded both sides to the hemtt wheels be strong enough at a total of 12 inches max across? or do i need a thicker one? what are the ones made of in the photos?

5 ton wheels are made from 3/8 thick steel, so 3/8 should be fine

i have seen those modified hemmit wheels, they are nice, just a plate, but laser cutting was not close enough to get them where the guy wanted them, so he had scrapped the originals and made more plates with the laser, the plates holes were made undersized and then finish machined on some cnc milling machines, they were then bolted in and then the centers were also welded, so they were surely made very strong

they looked good, he is working on making some more for sale
 

gringeltaube

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i want to build similar plates on the laser. what thickness are they? would a 3/8s plate welded both sides to the hemtt wheels be strong enough at a total of 12 inches max across? or do i need a thicker one? what are the ones made of in the photos?
For reference the Deuce pressed centers are tapered, 12mm thick in the center area around the lug holes down to 8mm towards the rim. Same for the early style 5ton wheels.
I would use 1/2" steel for such plates. Eventually, after welding, resurface them slightly in the center for the hub mounting flange to seat well and also minimize lateral runout.

G.
 

SuperJoe

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another thought came across my mind. what if i use the centers out of the 2.5. they are already to spec and i would just have to cut them out and weld to the dish of the hemtt. dial indicator and level table of course. i will be leaving most of the concave dish shape and just using the wheel mount surface to get level. any thoughts if this is a better idea than cutting my own??
 
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