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2.5 T136 Rebuild

chagen

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Due to the weight of the t-case I wanted to see if its possible to rebuild the unit while its still bolted in place. My mounts that i fabricated are on the side and I have full access to front and rear of the t-case.

The reason I am rebuilding is after a gear oil change there was what looked to be a bearing race or something similiar in the oil. I also thought I heard a chatter at higher speeds on hard dirt but i thought that was the rear axle.

Anyway if anyone could offer any info i would appreciate it as its a long way down from the truck and a hard lift up to a work bench, it sure would be easier changing the bearings as it sits in the truck.

As a fyi, I have plenty of room to work underneath the truck.

86 Chevy shortbed on 2.5/T136 27 T-Case

Thanks for the ideas and help, much appreciated.
 

NDT

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Welcome to the site. You will make things much more difficult for yourself trying to do this inframe. When you replace the cover of the tcase, you want all the shafts pointing up or I would imagine it would be impossible to line everything up.
 

chagen

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NDT - Thanks for the hospitality, I very much appreciate the feedback. Im gonna get it droped over the weekend and order up some parts and hopefully get it fixed up.

After seeing more then just shavins in the gear oil, I figured its not time to go searching for any mud holes.

Thanks again, and if you have any recommendations or ideas, things to look for etc. Im all ears. This will be my first T136 tear down.
 

chagen

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NDT - Thanks for the hospitality, I very much appreciate the feedback. Im gonna get it droped over the weekend and order up some parts and hopefully get it fixed up.

After seeing more then just shavins in the gear oil, I figured its not time to go searching for any mud holes.

Thanks again, and if you have any recommendations or ideas, things to look for etc. Im all ears. This will be my first T136 tear down.
 

NDT

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G, I think Chagen was more asking about doing an inframe overhaul, which I don't remember being discussed here before. Anyway, G's referenced thread has an excellent pic of how the transfer has to go together, with the shafts pointing up. I have always rebuilt these on the garage floor. You can balance the transfer on a transmission jack for removal but be careful.
 

gringeltaube

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NDT, yes he was..... but just for the very same reason you mentioned in your first post (which I agree 100% with), it is clear that he won't find anything regarding "inframe overhaul" - except maybe, pulling the whole front output section...

My response came AFTER the OP already said he was going to "get it dropped ... and order some parts...", and since he's just landed here, mainly to encourage him to "lift his eyes" (=search) a bit around him to see who else has "been there", had the same issues - and fixed it; or right now IS in the middle of such a project.

G.
 

chagen

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NDT, thanks again much appreciate.

G - No worries, and I would have to agree with you in which no one likes a lazy person. In all honesty I felt lazy just thinking about rebuilding it in-frame. As you guys can tell I am new, I could only imagine what < OP > is, ha.

I will keep you posted on how everything turns out.

I am respectful of everyone's time, this seemed like a good spot for me to learn from folks like yourselfs who have been around these machines for a while.
 
Last edited:

gringeltaube

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Hey, I saw your Q. .... which you then edited! ;-)
... Don't worry, its perfectly accepted here. Just don't dare to do the opposite: putting a Chevy(Ford, Dodge, etc) drivetrain under a Deuce frame...!:whistle:

The only thing we strongly request in cases like your's is painting the whole recipient vehicle OD color, or CAMO as well..... and post lots of pictures, for proof...!:razz:

Besides that.... welcome aboard!


G.
 

chagen

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G - Now your talking, its primer black right now which was the first step towards picking a color. O
D maybe the way yo go.

I read trough the thread that you linked to and appreciated that. Super helpful. I will be sure to take pictures of the tear down/rebuild so I can post for others as well.

Thanks for letting a Chevy guy post and so you know I will never ever ever run anything other then a 2.5 drive train in any of my trucks. Im not the fastest guy around but im usually the guy pulling them home. I had to pull a buggy the other week < he was stacked with 6 people on board and 2.5 drive train > so he has some weight, over 2 miles in the Clewiston water shed. 3 feet of water left over from Issac. It was getting hard to tell the difference between the trails and the canals. Long story short the buggy got a little to deep. Filled the tranny and the .305 with water. We drained everyhing out while sitting in waste high water. Any way it lastet about 300 yards before it blew up. Made for a long tuff pull home, but the moral of the story was I was NEVER worried about my drive train giving out.
 

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chagen

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The folks at Boyce Equi. are super helpful.

I priced out the a complete rebulid Input/Center/output respectfully ( All bearings/seals/gaskets ) Your looking at $850 in parts.

A little to rich for me at this point so Im only going to rebuild the input shaft, 6 bearings/Gaskets/Seals, $450.

Shipping out Tuesday,
 

chagen

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Dropped the case last night, low and behold looks like we have a bad low side bearing...

I'm hoping I didn't get any residual damage from all of the shag that's been flying around on the inside of this case.



I will take more pics and post as I break open the case, hopefully parts come in before Friday.
 

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gringeltaube

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Yep, that's typical; the ball bearing cage coming apart.
Prob. the shield was either missing or (also) shredded...!?

The good thing is, nothing of that is hardened stuff, and the gears are VERY robust so it won't do any real harm.
Just inspect the rear output shaft bearing races.

Good luck and keep us posted!


G.
 

chagen

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G - Thanks for the info.

Yes, the shield was shredded, which it was kinda everywhere. When i took the inspection cover off to take a peek, the partials were even on the outside/ side of the main bearing as well as in the fluid when i drained with was my red flag that something need attention.

As soon as I get the parts the fix will resume.

Stay tuned as i will post pics of the tear down and re-assambly for other folks to see
 

chagen

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G - Your gonna laugh at this one but please go easy on me. i cannot for the life of me see where to fill this puppy up with gear oil.

Where do you drop the 7 quarts into?

Thanks for the help,

Chad
 

Wildchild467

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Dropped the case last night, low and behold looks like we have a bad low side bearing...

I'm hoping I didn't get any residual damage from all of the shag that's been flying around on the inside of this case.



I will take more pics and post as I break open the case, hopefully parts come in before Friday.
That is the same thing i found in my transfer case. Check the counter shaft bearings and output shaft bearings. mine looked worn a bit so i opted to get new bearings since i drive the wheels right off my deuce. That was just me though. im sure they bearings would have gone a lot longer, but I dont like fixing stuff twice. Check the yokes to make sure you have a good seal surface. I polished up my yokes with some 600 grit sand paper and some WD-40. They came out real smooth. The seal part number is 23710 and can be ordered at NAPA. That is just some quick advice that I learned doing mine.
 

Wildchild467

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G - Your gonna laugh at this one but please go easy on me. i cannot for the life of me see where to fill this puppy up with gear oil.

Where do you drop the 7 quarts into?

Thanks for the help,

Chad
Was it low on oil when you drained it? its the plug on the right side that points up a little bit. fill to the bottom of that hole. its about 7 quarts i think. someone might want to correct me if i am wrong.
 

chagen

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It actually seemed a little low to be honest. I can confirm that I did read it is 7 quarts, it just seems the hole is to low to get 7 quarts into it.

I will be breaking it down tonight, thanks again for the info.
 
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