2001 M1088A1 FMTV 6x6 Tractor Parts & Charging System Questions

[Skipper M1088]

Hi Soldiers,
So glad I found this site filled experienced and knowledgeable people. I'm hoping you can help.

I purchased a non running 2001 M1088A1 from Government Planet. Everything appeared to be there and hopefully functional with the exception the alternator pully, voltage regulator and the power distribution panel box cover. I was able to find an alternator pulley but still need a voltage regulator and would like to find a power distribution box cover. Does anyone know where I could purchase one? I have attached photos for reference and to share.

Not sure if the alternator (C.E. Niehoff N1511) is in working order either? Can it be tested without the voltage regulator? Is the alternator rebuildable or available separately? If rebuildable or available separately, does anyone have a regulator (C.E. Niehoff N3207 I believe) they would be willing to part with or know where I can purchase one.

I have been trying to find a wiring diagram specifically for a 2001 M1088A1. It appears there should be two wires and the 6 pin plug connected to the voltage regulator? 1. The 28 volt exciter wire from? 2. The sense wire from the C.E. Niehoff N2003 Load & Battery Control Device. 3. 6 pin plug from the alternator. I can't find the second wire to the LBCD under the hood and the wiring harness doesn't appear to compromised in any way. I found a photo of another 2001 M1088A1 with only the 28 volt exciter wire and no sense wire. Every wiring diagram I have seen shows the sense wire? Does anyone know if the 2001 M1088A1 doesn't use or need the sense wire to the LBCD. I have attached some photos and diagrams for reference. The last photo will be of the photo of the running 2001 M1088A1 I found on the web without the sense wire.

I have included a photo of what I believe to be the LCBD? Can anyone confirm?

Driveshafts were also disconnected? I assume they were disconnected so the brakes could be aired up and it could be moved around? I have aired up the system from a compressor and cant get the brakes to release. I haven't tried to cage the brakes and beat them to get them to release yet. Any suggestions would be appreciated. A few of the brake shoes appear to be cracked or broken. Does anyone know where I can find new brake shoes?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance. Happy Holidays!!!

 

[coachgeo]

....

Not sure if the alternator (C.E. Niehoff N1511) is in working order either? Can it be tested without the voltage regulator? Is the alternator rebuildable or available separately?

Yes can be rebuilt... can you find a place to do it... likely NO and if you did.... you could replace the alt. with used twice over for same price.

If rebuildable or available separately, does anyone have a regulator (C.E. Niehoff N3207 I believe) they would be willing to part with or know where I can purchase one.

w/price regulators.... again your still likely better off to buy whole new setup. IMHO go commercial 24v alt. A fellow sells a whole kit with or without AC bracket if you need that. Or for more money go to 260amp Neihoff. little more fab for that. probably little more expensive too.

I have been trying to find a wiring diagram specifically for a 2001 M1088A1. It appears there should be two wires and the 6 pin plug connected to the voltage regulator? 1. The 28 volt exciter wire from? 2. The sense wire from the C.E. Niehoff N2003 Load & Battery Control Device. 3. 6 pin plug from the alternator. I can't find the second wire to the LBCD under the hood and the wiring harness doesn't appear to compromised in any way. I found a photo of another 2001 M1088A1 with only the 28 volt exciter wire and no sense wire. Every wiring diagram I have seen shows the sense wire? Does anyone know if the 2001 M1088A1 doesn't use or need the sense wire to the LBCD. I have attached some photos and diagrams for reference. The last photo will be of the photo of the running 2001 M1088A1 I found on the web without the sense wire.

No wiring diagrams exist specific to "models" there is 4x4 or 6x6 wiring diagrams in A0 and A1.... sorta..... A1... don't much exist in public hands. @GeneralDisorder might can help you out with getting diagram if the one here on this site for the A1 is not new enough.

I have included a photo of what I believe to be the LCBD? Can anyone confirm?

yes that is it. It also is part of turning off/on the battery cut off switches attached to battery box. These cut off switches are problematic.

Driveshafts were also disconnected? I assume they were disconnected so the brakes could be aired up and it could be moved around? I have aired up the system from a compressor and cant get the brakes to release. I haven't tried to cage the brakes and beat them to get them to release yet. Any suggestions would be appreciated. A few of the brake shoes appear to be cracked or broken. Does anyone know where I can find new brake shoes?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance. Happy Holidays!!!

Driveshafts gone.... not sure that assumption about why removed has much validity. Where did you air it up? direct to each brake tank? via one of the glad hand ports orr?? For shoes @wheelspinner , @Suprman may have some used and/or can point you in directions. Bryce is cutting up some trucks right now. He is only on Facebook though.

 

[Ronmar]

There is an A1 diagram here on SS. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/fmtva1-electrical-schematics.158229/

you don’t appear to have a LBCD, that looks like a pic of a polarity protection device or PPD. The LBCD has a box on the mounting side that houses caps and one end looks like the attached drawing. If you dont have a LBCD then you don't need that second wire on the regulator(RPM sense to LBCD). The excite wire provides 24v to the regulator excite(front) terminal from K11 once the engine goes over 15PSI oil pressure.

I also suspect you probably dont have a box behind the battery box which would have housed the disconnect switch and relay module, and you probably do not have the remote start switches to the rear of the passenger shock absorber? I have come across this a few times, I call it an A0.5. Depending on where they were in production they mixed and matched components and systems to move trucks along the assembly line. So you have a 3126 engine, and most of an A1 wire loom, with A0 battery box and polarity box?

The only reason to pull the driveshafts is to tow it a long distance, you can tow it short distance at low speeds with them in place. So when you charge the air system, how did you do it? If from the red emer glad-hand at the front, this should also have released the park brakes.

does the electrical system power up when you switch the main switch on? If you do this with the air tanks full, and release the park brake control(push yellow knob in), the park and emer lights in the dash should go out indicating you are delivering park air to the anti-compounding valve. This should release the park brakes, or at least allow you to smack the drums to shock them and allow them to release. You should be able to see the shoes move when someone operates the park control in the cab, just like you should be able to see the front shoes move when someone steps on the treadle valve pedal…

 

[coachgeo]

Not sure why was thinking this was a 2005 truck.

So yeah... what Ron says.

PS- while your at it... there seems to be consensus in here with recommending two batteries not four.... and/or as mentioned above..... go to 200amp civilian alternator. Also as you try to test things... trans wont work crap with out solid 24v.. keep that in mind as you try to diagnose things.

 

[Skipper M1088]

Yes can be rebuilt... can you find a place to do it... likely NO and if you did.... you could replace the alt. with used twice over for same price.

w/price regulators.... again your still likely better off to buy whole new setup. IMHO go commercial 24v alt. A fellow sells a whole kit with or without AC bracket if you need that. Or for more money go to 260amp Neihoff. little more fab for that. probably little more expensive too.

No wiring diagrams exist specific to "models" there is 4x4 or 6x6 wiring diagrams in A0 and A1.... sorta..... A1... don't much exist in public hands. @GeneralDisorder might can help you out with getting diagram if the one here on this site for the A1 is not new enough.


yes that is it. It also is part of turning off/on the battery cut off switches attached to battery box. These cut off switches are problematic.

Driveshafts gone.... not sure that assumption about why removed has much validity. Where did you air it up? direct to each brake tank? via one of the glad hand ports orr?? For shoes @wheelspinner , @Suprman may have some used and/or can point you in directions. Bryce is cutting up some trucks right now. He is only on Facebook though.

Thank you Coachgeo,

Do you know where I could find a good used N1511 alternator w/ regulator for sale?

Is it feasible to bypass the LBCD without too much work and expense?

The driveshafts are not missing, just disconnected from the differentials and strapped up. I aired the system up from the glad hand. The parking button pushed in and stayed but didn't release the brakes. When the brake treadle valve was pressed it sounded like air was being applied to the brakes and released when foot was taken off the pedal. Does it need air alone or is there a solenoid that requires power also? The batteries were disconnected.

Thank you for the leads on the brake shoes.

Thanks again.

 

[Ronmar]

Why would you want to bypass the LBCD/PPD(polarity box)? the way they wired the truck, the PPD is a junction point. 2 wires go to the battery box, 2 wires go to the alternator and 2 wires go to the cab, so it is not practical to bypass it unless you are redesigning the electrical system/re-wiring the truck.
I rewired mine because I removed that structure where the PPD is installed, but I also configured it to accept a commercial 24v alternator and I only feed 24V to the cab now…

 

[coachgeo]

Thank you Coachgeo,

Do you know where I could find a good used N1511 alternator w/ regulator for sale?

Is it feasible to bypass the LBCD without too much work and expense?

The driveshafts are not missing, just disconnected from the differentials and strapped up. I aired the system up from the glad hand. The parking button pushed in and stayed but didn't release the brakes. When the brake treadle valve was pressed it sounded like air was being applied to the brakes and released when foot was taken off the pedal. Does it need air alone or is there a solenoid that requires power also? The batteries were disconnected.

Thank you for the leads on the brake shoes.

Thanks again.

keep in mind..... I just try to pass on what I understand from reading. so use it as a stepping point for reading further, cause I do understand things wrong (often). People point it out when I do and we all learn something new each time. lol (cept me.... takes a while to sink in)

Ron is likely right that you dont have an LBCD... but instead a Reverse Polarity protection thingy. There is a abbreviation for that too but it escapes me at moment. Once you find that.... you will have a good key word to search by about how to bypass it (yes you can. dont quote me w/out checking further..... but I think you just couple the cables together exactly like they come off the box.

Brakes...... they just might be shoes rusted to drum . Not uncommon either. search with terms "stuck brakes hammer shoes" and that should take you to some info on this

 

[coachgeo]

Found it... it is PPD (Polarity Protection Device) but you can't search in Discussion boards like this by three lettered terms. "Polarity, box, device" would be good search terms. They would typically fall into discussions on this topic.

Polarity Protection Device 100 AMP LMTV FMTV

Polarity Protection Device 100 AMP LMTV FMTV for M1078 M1079 M1080 2 ½ Ton Trucks M1083 M1084 M1085 M1086 M1087 M1088 M1089 M1090 M1091 M1095 M1096 5-Ton Trucks for Serial Number 18547 and Earlier NSN 5945014235549 5945013702051 2920013618533

www.easternsurplus.net

 

[Skipper M1088]

There is an A1 diagram here on SS. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/fmtva1-electrical-schematics.158229/

you don’t appear to have a LBCD, that looks like a pic of a polarity protection device or PPD. The LBCD has a box on the mounting side that houses caps and one end looks like the attached drawing. If you dont have a LBCD then you don't need that second wire on the regulator(RPM sense to LBCD). The excite wire provides 24v to the regulator excite(front) terminal from K11 once the engine goes over 15PSI oil pressure.

I also suspect you probably dont have a box behind the battery box which would have housed the disconnect switch and relay module, and you probably do not have the remote start switches to the rear of the passenger shock absorber? I have come across this a few times, I call it an A0.5. Depending on where they were in production they mixed and matched components and systems to move trucks along the assembly line. So you have a 3126 engine, and most of an A1 wire loom, with A0 battery box and polarity box?

The only reason to pull the driveshafts is to tow it a long distance, you can tow it short distance at low speeds with them in place. So when you charge the air system, how did you do it? If from the red emer glad-hand at the front, this should also have released the park brakes.

does the electrical system power up when you switch the main switch on? If you do this with the air tanks full, and release the park brake control(push yellow knob in), the park and emer lights in the dash should go out indicating you are delivering park air to the anti-compounding valve. This should release the park brakes, or at least allow you to smack the drums to shock them and allow them to release. You should be able to see the shoes move when someone operates the park control in the cab, just like you should be able to see the front shoes move when someone steps on the treadle valve pedal…

View attachment 886925

I also suspect you probably dont have a box behind the battery box which would have housed the disconnect switch and relay module, and you probably do not have the remote start switches to the rear of the passenger shock absorber? I have come across this a few times, I call it an A0.5. Depending on where they were in production they mixed and matched components and systems to move trucks along the assembly line. So you have a 3126 engine, and most of an A1 wire loom, with A0 battery box and polarity box?

Thank you Ronmar,

It does not have a box with a disconnect switch or the remote start switches. It's a cat engine, 3126?, not sure about the wire loom or polarity box? Please let me know how to tell and I'll get back to you.

Do you know a source for a good used alternator?

Batteries were dead upon arrival. I tried jumping off 24 volt system before I knew the alternator was disconnected and got a few buzzers going off but nothing more. Added oil to the cab jack and finally got the cab up and found the alternator disconnected w/ no regulator. I pulled the batteries to charge them separately and they appear to have come back? Time will tell. So I aired up the system from the glad hand but had no power. The parking button pushed in and stayed but didn't release the brakes. When the brake treadle valve was pressed it sounded like air was being applied to the brakes and released when foot was taken off the pedal. Does it need air alone or is there a solenoid that requires power also? Is power only for brake light status? The brakes didn't release and I didn't try smacking them yet. Good point, I didn't observe the front brakes.

Thanks again!

 

[Skipper M1088]

Why would you want to bypass the LBCD/PPD(polarity box)? the way they wired the truck, the PPD is a junction point. 2 wires go to the battery box, 2 wires go to the alternator and 2 wires go to the cab, so it is not practical to bypass it unless you are redesigning the electrical system/re-wiring the truck.
I rewired mine because I removed that structure where the PPD is installed, but I also configured it to accept a commercial 24v alternator and I only feed 24V to the cab now…

Thanks Ronmar,
I'm typically a stock is better type of person. I'd prefer to leave it alone if they are not problematic? Thanks again.

 

[Ronmar]

The brake system only requires air. With air in the system and the park control pushed in, take a big hammer and give the inner edge of the brake drums a solid smack. it should ring like a bell, the brake shoe material sometimes rusts to the inner face of the drum, and the concussion and oscillations of the hammer blow should free them.

looks like a serpentine belt so should be a 3126 engine. Id tag should be on top of the engine, also has a ECU on the drivers side rear of the engine over the starter.

you can find alternators out there, but you are not going to like the prices. Sadly it is a very unique unit, and the speculators who bought them at auction know it. Expect to pay upwards of $2500 for any alt you find… some suppliers have regs, message Superman here on SS, Will may be able to supply a reg for that alt. The Neihoff troubleshooting guide for that alt is available Here: https://ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG14_uid252021119472.pdf

There is a procedure to ring out the alternator chassis, so you can decide if it is worth trying to just source a regulator.

that was one motivation for rewiring mine, as I did not want to have to deal with finding gold plated unobtanium if I ever have an alt failure. It is also far cheaper to reconfigure using a 24-12 converter and a commercial 24v 200A alt…

 

[serpico760]

I also suspect you probably dont have a box behind the battery box which would have housed the disconnect switch and relay module, and you probably do not have the remote start switches to the rear of the passenger shock absorber? I have come across this a few times, I call it an A0.5. Depending on where they were in production they mixed and matched components and systems to move trucks along the assembly line. So you have a 3126 engine, and most of an A1 wire loom, with A0 battery box and polarity box?

Thank you Ronmar,

It does not have a box with a disconnect switch or the remote start switches. It's a cat engine, 3126?, not sure about the wire loom or polarity box? Please let me know how to tell and I'll get back to you.

Do you know a source for a good used alternator?

Batteries were dead upon arrival. I tried jumping off 24 volt system before I knew the alternator was disconnected and got a few buzzers going off but nothing more. Added oil to the cab jack and finally got the cab up and found the alternator disconnected w/ no regulator. I pulled the batteries to charge them separately and they appear to have come back? Time will tell. So I aired up the system from the glad hand but had no power. The parking button pushed in and stayed but didn't release the brakes. When the brake treadle valve was pressed it sounded like air was being applied to the brakes and released when foot was taken off the pedal. Does it need air alone or is there a solenoid that requires power also? Is power only for brake light status? The brakes didn't release and I didn't try smacking them yet. Good point, I didn't observe the front brakes.

Thanks again!

Lol that's mine, the A0.5...

 

[serpico760]

Hi Soldiers,
So glad I found this site filled experienced and knowledgeable people. I'm hoping you can help.

I purchased a non running 2001 M1088A1 from Government Planet. Everything appeared to be there and hopefully functional with the exception the alternator pully, voltage regulator and the power distribution panel box cover. I was able to find an alternator pulley but still need a voltage regulator and would like to find a power distribution box cover. Does anyone know where I could purchase one? I have attached photos for reference and to share.

Not sure if the alternator (C.E. Niehoff N1511) is in working order either? Can it be tested without the voltage regulator? Is the alternator rebuildable or available separately? If rebuildable or available separately, does anyone have a regulator (C.E. Niehoff N3207 I believe) they would be willing to part with or know where I can purchase one.

I have been trying to find a wiring diagram specifically for a 2001 M1088A1. It appears there should be two wires and the 6 pin plug connected to the voltage regulator? 1. The 28 volt exciter wire from? 2. The sense wire from the C.E. Niehoff N2003 Load & Battery Control Device. 3. 6 pin plug from the alternator. I can't find the second wire to the LBCD under the hood and the wiring harness doesn't appear to compromised in any way. I found a photo of another 2001 M1088A1 with only the 28 volt exciter wire and no sense wire. Every wiring diagram I have seen shows the sense wire? Does anyone know if the 2001 M1088A1 doesn't use or need the sense wire to the LBCD. I have attached some photos and diagrams for reference. The last photo will be of the photo of the running 2001 M1088A1 I found on the web without the sense wire.

I have included a photo of what I believe to be the LCBD? Can anyone confirm?

Driveshafts were also disconnected? I assume they were disconnected so the brakes could be aired up and it could be moved around? I have aired up the system from a compressor and cant get the brakes to release. I haven't tried to cage the brakes and beat them to get them to release yet. Any suggestions would be appreciated. A few of the brake shoes appear to be cracked or broken. Does anyone know where I can find new brake shoes?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance. Happy Holidays!!!

View attachment 886874View attachment 886875View attachment 886877View attachment 886880View attachment 886881View attachment 886882View attachment 886883View attachment 886897

I saw this on eBay today but I'll bet one of the nice fellas on steel soldiers has one they would part with for less

 

[Skipper M1088]

I saw this on eBay today but I'll bet one of the nice fellas on steel soldiers has one they would part with for less
View attachment 886959

Awesome thank you!

 

[TomTime]

For the cover, give @wheelspinner a shout, he may have one. I’ve purchased parts from him and he has been very fair with prices!

 

[Skipper M1088]

For the cover, give @wheelspinner a shout, he may have one. I’ve purchased parts from him and he has been very fair with prices!

Thank you TomTime. I'll reach out to him.

 

[Skipper M1088]

Thank you TomTime. I'll reach out to him.

I'm a newbie to this site. Not sure how to start a conversation. Tried and it said "Oops something went wrong, Please start a conversation with one of the following staff members: patracy". Can you get in trouble for soliciting parts?

Thanks for any help.

 

[Guruman]

I'm a newbie to this site. Not sure how to start a conversation. Tried and it said "Oops something went wrong, Please start a conversation with one of the following staff members: patracy". Can you get in trouble for soliciting parts?

Thanks for any help.

New members are limited to cut down on scam and spam postings. Once you've built up some reputation, you can post and DM more. Since he's been tagged already (someone used "AT-hisusername"), he'll know when he signs on again.

 

[coachgeo]

New members are limited to cut down on scam and spam postings. Once you've built up some reputation, you can post and DM more. Since he's been tagged already (someone used "AT-hisusername"), he'll know when he signs on again.

Gurman hit nail on head.... it takes somewhere between 5 or 10 legit post (to show your participating and not spamming) before you can @so-and-so, use DM's, post pictures or URL's. Pretty common way Discussion Boards to be set up.