• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

2013 Haspin Discussion Thread

jw4x4

Active member
1,082
5
38
Location
Dayton, Ohio
A big piece of cardboard works in a pinch when a creeper is not available. My grease guns (one Lincoln electric and one manual) are both pistol grip types. The lever actuated ones are too much of a PITA.
 

gungearz

New member
1,719
4
0
Location
northwestern indiana
Hey sparky, I think any speed service shop should be able to test those injectors... Shouldn't cost no more then $30. Cost me $50 for them to strip, check, and assemble a big block chevy head.
 

rebelcummins

Member
152
4
18
Location
west alexandria, Ohio
How much did they charge to test? I have a set from tm America and would like to test them
the shop over here dont charge me anything cause half of the time i disassemble diesel engins for them, And to make sure they tested the injectors right im going to do them my self at there shop... just to be sure. if you could get them too me i wont charge you anything test them.
 

rebelcummins

Member
152
4
18
Location
west alexandria, Ohio
Hey sparky, I think any speed service shop should be able to test those injectors... Shouldn't cost no more then $30. Cost me $50 for them to strip, check, and assemble a big block chevy head.
Your right most speed shops will test diesel injectors but, Muilti-Fuel injectors give out a differnt reading pressure other wise the may tell you there weak or shot.
 

212sparky

Well-known member
1,822
38
48
Location
Monroe/ Ohio
Re: 2013 Haspin, June 13th-16th

Ok I will have to meet up with you some time. I want to get rid of the clicking injector I have.
 

rebelcummins

Member
152
4
18
Location
west alexandria, Ohio
Hey, seein' how they came out of my RUNNING truck I can vouch for them being good.........they came from the '71 that I was driving up until December/November.
Not tryng to step on any toes on here but, gimpyrob is right. Got to make sure the all pop at the same pressure or youll have a commpression knock, tick, or ting and could in turn damage the piston(s) or sleeve(s). Trust me been down that road....

Ok I will have to meet up with you some time. I want to get rid of the clicking injector I have.
Sparky, I will send you a PM with a cell number and you can call me when ever, I'm always available for Diesel Engine servicing.
 

Tplane37

New member
127
0
0
Location
Dallas, Texas
Re: 2013 Haspin, June 13th-16th

Not sure if I can make it or not. But I was thinking of a trick I learned growing up at the mud drags.

Fill any dead space in the frame an under carriage with expanding foam such as Great Stuff. This is a closed pored foam that will not absorb water, an keeps the mud from packing into places you didn't know existed on your truck, thus keeps from adding hundreds of pounds of mud to the weight of the truck and helps to speed up the clean up. It's paintable too, just in case you're not a fan of yellow! Keeping mud out that you cannot easily clean out will also help to prevent rust in the future.
 
Last edited:

Tplane37

New member
127
0
0
Location
Dallas, Texas
Re: 2013 Haspin, June 13th-16th

Tplane37, Thats not too bad of an idea, but I have to ask have you had any issues with the expanding foam pressing out the sides of whatever cavity its filling?
Only if you don't make sure it has an exit point for the foam to expand to. I would NOT go so far as to drill a hole in a sealed tube just to fill it up, because the foam needs to be able to expand and needs a way out.

Think of it like this, if you were to fill what ever void you are thinking of with water, and that water would freeze, would it bulge the surrounding material? It acts a lot like a soda bottle filled to the top with water and then sitting it in the freezer. If the cap is on the bottle when the water freezes it will break the bottle or cap, or it will distort the bottle. But if you leave the cap off, the excess will come out the top of the bottle when it freezes and expands. The same concept applies to the foam.

Once the foam finishes expanding and fully cures, just cut the excess off with a hack saw blade or box cutter. But I would not put it in an area that would prevent the foam from expanding freely. If you are worried about it sticking to something near the edge when it overflows, making tape quirks well to keep it from sticking.
 

Durango_USMC

Member
663
0
18
Location
Indianapolis, IN
I was just curious because I had heard some people filling in the gap in the CUCV roofs to add a little insulation and noise reduction and it had bowed out a few spots. But pretty clever idea in some of the "dead space" in the body under the truck.
 
Top