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24 volt and 12 volt system

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Heat77

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I have an M35A2 that has the regular 24 volt system I was wanting to be able to put add a 12 volt system for off road lighting, radios and lights for the interior of the box that I have on it. What is the best way of doing this that will not cause a fire and wont cost an arm and a leg. Thanks for your help
 
rustystud

rustystud

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Heat77 said:
I have an M35A2 that has the regular 24 volt system I was wanting to be able to put add a 12 volt system for off road lighting, radios and lights for the interior of the box that I have on it. What is the best way of doing this that will not cause a fire and wont cost an arm and a leg. Thanks for your help
Click to expand...
"TM America" made a kit to adapt a Delco 12 volt alternator to our multifuel. I have one and so do many others here. I don't know if he still makes them though. You will have to contact him.
 
m715mike

m715mike

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You have several options to obtain 12VDC power in your 24VDC truck. Here are some:

> Replace your existing generator/alternator with a duel output (12 & 24) HMMWV alternator (This may be the most expensive option.)
> Add a second 12 volt alternator as mentioned above
> Add a battery equalizer and a third, dedicated 12 volt battery
> Use a power converter
> Center tap one of your existing 12 volt batteries (not recommended)



I only wanted to run a few accessories (e.g., cell phone chargers, GPS, etc.), so I went with a Pyle converter. There are details of my installation here:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?120966-My-12-Volt-DC-Accessory-Kit-Installation


There are a bunch of threads on this site about 12 volt power. With a little research, you will be able to find the best solution for your specific needs.
 
daytonatrbo

daytonatrbo

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The higher quality LED offroad lights are frequently flexible on voltage and can be run directly on the 24V system. Look for ones that specify a voltage range up to 30V or so.

As for a radio, check out the pyle converters. A 30A continuous converter is around $40 on amazon.
 
VPed

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I bought several stereos mentioned in a link on here a while back that are 12/24 volt capable. I think they were $40 at the time and work great. Marine (boats, not Devil Dogs) radios frequently are 12/24 volt. For that matter, marine supply outfits carry a whole array of 24 volt devices.
 
rustystud

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Hunter2506

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Most higher draw items, like off road lights, are readily available in 24V. So are aftermarket electric wipers. 12V winches can handle 24 if you mind your motor can temps. Really, the only things you truly need a 12V supply for are stereo equipment (who can hear a radio in a deuce anyway?) and cigarette lighter adapter stuff. Most of these items have minimal draw (depending on your stereo, I guess), and you can get solid state inverters from $15 for a 10 amp to $80 for a 50 amp unit.

Center tap one of your existing 12 volt batteries (not recommended)
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Not the best way, but if it's something with little draw and not constant use, really not a problem. My windshield washer pump and interior cab light are wired this way. Everything else is 24V compatible. The pump can run on 24V, but the spray is, well..........energetic.
 
clinto

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Hunter2506 said:
the only things you truly need a 12V supply for are stereo equipment (who can hear a radio in a deuce anyway?) and cigarette lighter adapter stuff.
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With one big exception.............. trailer brake controllers.

I think the best choice for our vehicles is every accessory 24V: my worklights, back up lights, rear winch, etc. are all 24V. That way you can feed off the factory battery bank and alternator.

And stuff like cell phone/GPS chargers are easily fed with a cheap eBay 24-12 converter. But if you need a trailer brake controller, you need a more expensive converter that can do more amperage or an alternator putting out 12V that feeds a standalone battery.
 
59apache

59apache

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pro and con's are often discussed.
If you have an independend 12V system, you have no headache. Your truck will start. You can run a small cooler, lights on a campside, what ever you want.
12V items are often cheaper.
My systems costs me only the battery...everything else was laying around :)
The stock 24V alternator is IMO way to small for big consumers...
 
HanksDeuce

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Feel free to browse my website at the link below for pics of my combination 24 volt + 12 volt system.
http://hanksdeuce.com/12v_24v_systems.htm

Basically I bought a 50 amp Vanner equalizer to run my 12 volt loads. To clean up the wiring for any future electrical add-ons I installed both a 12 volt fuse box and a 24 volt fuse box. Every circuit is protected by a fuse, but also each system has a breaker. Nothing comes on until I turn the master switch because each system has a large Ametek 100 amp relay.

Let me know if you have any questions.
 

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rustystud

rustystud

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HanksDeuce said:
Feel free to browse my website at the link below for pics of my combination 24 volt + 12 volt system.
http://hanksdeuce.com/12v_24v_systems.htm

Basically I bought a 50 amp Vanner equalizer to run my 12 volt loads. To clean up the wiring for any future electrical add-ons I installed both a 12 volt fuse box and a 24 volt fuse box. Every circuit is protected by a fuse, but also each system has a breaker. Nothing comes on until I turn the master switch because each system has a large Ametek 100 amp relay.

Let me know if you have any questions.
Click to expand...


This is also what I did except I used two enclosures.


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