24v lights in to a cucv system

[rsh4364]

With Truck Lite if it says 12v it is 12v, 24v it is 24v and so on. They do not make their LED lights in multi-volt like many emergency light manufactures offering 12/24v input. If you have a 12v LED that is not multi-volt and hook up 24v you will likely fry it. It can be the same even with a 24v LED if you hook up 12v, but that is not as likely. SO unless it says 12/24, do not hook up anything other than what is says the input is.

I would hook up a 24v LED to the 24v buss with a relay using 12v and a 12v switch. It is just the better way to go and this is how the starter system is set up from GM on the CUCV.

This is how I would like to install, anyone have a part number for the 12v to 24v relay, I'm electronic challenged.

 

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I have a volt meter. if you are just telling me to look because you dont know state so dont be a jerk because you dont want to tell me.

So many people change their CUCV wiring that it's really dicey to believe that anything you read on the internet applies to your particular truck. You get good advice here, but the rule remains, "trust, but verify". I know a guy who split his upper bus bar into 2 busses, 24V on the left and 12V on the right. He had sound technical reasons for doing this, having to do with feeding power to some serious radio transmitters. His vehicle was not hacked in any way, but it was heavily customized to meet his unique requirements.

So when experienced people tell you to test the voltage for yourself, it's because they know what they don't know about your vehicle. They're trying to save you pain, not cause you pain.

Also, if you don't understand automotive electricity well enough to figure out which bus is which, you really need to take a course before you start mucking with this. CUCV batteries have enough juice to cause serious damage. My CUCV came to me with <2,000 miles on it because someone screwed up the electrical system. There was evidence that many people had tried to fix it.

You are being supported here, not abused.

 

[Recovry4x4]

JPG offers sound analysis. Once the magic smoke escapes, your day gets exponentially worse.

 

[rsh4364]

I shouldn't have reopened this thread.

 

[richingalveston]

24v+ from top bus bar (red) above the blower motor to input side of relay. run output side of relay to the 24+ on light. Run neg for light to a good ground. Run 12v+ to switch side of relay. Run ground wire from other switch side of relay to switch, other side of switch to ground. This way the ground is switched and you have less load on the switch.

You can use the same glow plug relay for they light relay. 24V wont bother it if the amps are not to high. This also gives you a back up when your gp relay goes out.

a 5 amp fuse on the between the 12V and switch side of relay and a fuse between the 24v and input side of relay rated for your lights not the relay. relay should be larger.

 

[rsh4364]

Thanks just not sure of what relay needed. Thanks.

 

[richingalveston]

the relay size is really based on the light fuse size. With the fuse in front of the relay you can oversize the relay by 20% and you should be good. I believe the armored lights on high beam are 110 watts at 24 volt so that is about 5 amps per light. For two lights I would run a 15 amp fuse with at least a 20 amp relay at 24 volt.

A 12 volt relay can handle 24 without many problems but a 24 cannot handle 12 volts (when amperage is equal).
You want to oversize due to the continuous duty you are asking of it on the lights. Running the relay at 50% capability also prolongs the life of the relay. Get continuous duty relay if you can I am not sure the glow plug relay is.. The fuse is protecting the wire size for over current anyway.

I am using a glow plug relay on my PAPACOM big ass lights. The 24 V 450 watt lights. I am using one relay for both. This would be the same as you using one relay for four of the armored lights. I have yet to leave them on more than 30 minutes.

Wire size is another thing to double, cost is minimal and long term benefits are good.
hope this helps.

 

[rsh4364]

Thanks, the lights I'm going to use are 7" LED 24volt floodlights by truck lite not sure of wattage or amp draw, but shouldn't be much.

 

[rsh4364]

After some research the lights draw 1.63 amps at 24v. May not need to use a relay.

 

[richingalveston]

The relay allows you to switch from the inside using a ground. This way if your wire from inside to outside gets grounded, it only turns the lights on instead of big sparks (maybe small sparks).

Put your relay close to your power input and run the switched ground to it. This way the wire to the light stays dead unless switched and the wire from inside to outside is only a ground.

The fewer constantly hot wires you have running everywhere the better off you are. One relay can do a lot of led lights. unless you want to switch each one individually and then you end up with a lot of switches.

 

[NovacaineFix]

A relay is a good idea for safety and ease of use later on. Most common switches are very cheap, though rated for the proper load, will fail due to the contacts. A typical Bosch relay will be suffice, the common ones are typically rated for 30 amps. The reason for the relay, the switch can be super cheap, it isn't carrying the load of the lights or anything else, the relay does all the work, the switch is just there to turn the relay on or off. It sounds confusing, but I assure you, it is the best way to go, a little bit more wiring, but you'll be glad you did it.

It's your truck, you do with it as you feel like. Good Luck

Here is a simple diagram from the interwebs showing a driving light setup.


Link for buying a bosch relay

 

[rsh4364]

Thanks I know you are right, I was just rushing things.I have the relay so I will do it the better way.