24v to 12v and problems!!!

[Sgt Hulka]

Pulley size of the alternators? That's interesting, but how could it matter? What's the physical or electrical reason for the difference? Even in the 24v system, each alternator charges one battery, correct? I have not experienced that in either of my two M1009s. However, in one vehicle the Gen 1 light does take a long time to stop glowing very, very faintly. It's so faint you can only see it at night, and then only if you look carefully. Might be a clue. Thanks for the input!!!!!

 

[Bunkerbuilder]

Keep in mind when you reduce the diameter you are reducing the belt wrap and will have less contact between the pulley and the belt = more chance of belt slipping.

Less belt wrap angle = less drive surface area. Google this term.

Ratio of pulleys = crank pulley / alt pulley

ETA: using a belt idler could help when there is a problem with belt contact.

Pulley size of the alternators? That's interesting, but how could it matter? What's the physical or electrical reason for the difference? Even in the 24v system, each alternator charges one battery, correct? I have not experienced that in either of my two M1009s. However, in one vehicle the Gen 1 light does take a long time to stop glowing very, very faintly. It's so faint you can only see it at night, and then only if you look carefully. Might be a clue. Thanks for the input!!!!!

 

[Sgt Hulka]

Now I'm completely lost... How in the world could converting to 12v require a change in pulley size? For the record. I have two M1009s. Both converted to 12v. Neither has had the pulleys altered in any way. Both charge exactly as before. BTW, Bunkerbuilder, LOVE your avatar...

 

[woodyNla]

Seems like their is 24v for everything, including that darn relay inside the dash. I mean, for that stater relay under the dash would that not cause poblems if you changed from 24v to 12. This was not my project. I bought the project after all was screwed up big time.
Just seems to me everything needs to be talking the same volts may it be resistors or what not!

Although I can see it would still work, I would like to do away with it if I end up converting the 1031 I just picked up to 12V. As it is I am having weird issues. It acts as if the batteries are dead so I have attempted to jump it off with a GPU that puts out 28V DC and still can't get it to start. If I end up having to have another starter, I will convert it over to 12V and would like to do away with the relay under the dash.

 

[Sgt Hulka]

Well, for all the reasons, I stated above, I recommend conversion for most folks. But if you have the resources, skill and are thoroughly familiar with the TMs, no reason 24v can't be left alone.

 

[CUCV85]

If you want to maintain the 24V starter and the two 12V alternators then YES you need the twin resistor pack on the firewall on the other hand if you want to run a 12V starter you can bypass the resistors on the firewall you would be advised to follow the link at roscommon equipment center to make sure you only have 12V to the starter and not 24V.

http://www.roscommonequipmentcenter.com/news_notes/nn10.pdf

AFAIK the relays under the dash ie in the ash tray area are 12V.

the only thing I have done to modify the original military setup. Again I do use 24v starter and 12v ig alt.s
The resistors are for jumping the vehicle using a military type slave cable. Doing a bypass from the resistors is using the front battery to supply the glow plugs with 12 volts and no more than 12 volts, no more burned out glow plugs! Those MILITARY resistors are a PITA - get rid of them JMHO
If I am to jump someone or get jumped I use 2 jumper cables -
It's ingenious.