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24V to 12V converter

dilligaf13

Active member
558
26
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Location
south, florida
I've got a M932 and I'm looking for a good waterproof 24V to 12V 30A step down converter, for powering a brake controller, and ultimately 12V civilian trailer brakes. I'd prefer something I can purchase off the shelf, but I realize that's probably not an option. Anyone have a good unit they've used before? Thanks.
 

Shark Bait

Active member
720
58
28
Location
Charleston, West Virginia
I use the Samlex brand often for installations at work. The ones I've used are not waterproof but haven't had any issues with any models. In my HET I installed a SamlexSDC-30 (30 amp) and a Samlex SDC-60 (60 amp). The 30 amp model has male tab connectors and the 60 amp has lug terminals. Cooling fans internal for thermal control. I'd have to check what they cost, I don't remember. We order so many different pieces its too hard to keep track. Lol

Dave
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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GA Mountains
Stonepicker1 had a supply of Vanners for sale. I don't see his ad either. Since he is local, might be worth a PM.
 

pmramsey

Active member
460
191
43
Location
VA
You need one of these.

View attachment 557169

This is not an inverter. It is a circuit breaker cabinet with twelve waterproof circuits, 4-12 volt and 8-24volt. They are mounted in the first bay in the battery compartment on the 900 series trucks. In fact, there is a good chance your truck already has one installed. You get to set the amps on each circuit. There is no conversion, no heat, and no big expense. It is simple and easy. This also a battery bank de-sulfator. They can also be purchased with a complete high end solar panel. The military pays $1400 a truck for the complete units. The complete kit with solar panel can be purchased for less than $200. The circuit breaker unit sells for less that $30 new in the box. I use them on every truck I own. They are especially good on CUCVs as the common problem of adding more and more 12-volt stuff to the systems often destroys well meaning additions to the trucks. This is not junk or crap. This solution is the real thing and runs rings around inverters.

military pulsetech.jpg
 
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Woodsplinter

Member
723
6
18
Location
Phoenix/AZ
You need one of these.

View attachment 557169

This is not an inverter. It is a circuit breaker cabinet with twelve waterproof circuits, 4-12 volt and 8-24volt. They are mounted in the first bay in the battery compartment on the 900 series trucks. In fact, there is a good chance your truck already has one installed. You get to set the amps on each circuit. There is no conversion, no heat, and no big expense. It is simple and easy. This also a battery bank de-sulfator. They can also be purchased with a complete high end solar panel. The military pays $1400 a truck for the complete units. The complete kit with solar panel can be purchased for less than $200. The circuit breaker unit sells for less that $30 new in the box. I use them on every truck I own. They are especially good on CUCVs as the common problem of adding more and more 12-volt stuff to the systems often destroys well meaning additions to the trucks. This is not junk or crap. This solution is the real thing and runs rings around inverters.

View attachment 557170
Mind telling us who makes them and where you get them from?
 

pmramsey

Active member
460
191
43
Location
VA
The manufacturer is Pulsetech. The complete unit with solar comes and goes at a large online book retailer The price is usually $179 plus $15 shipping. The circuit boxes sell for about $30 plus shipping on several auction sites. I am not a seller. The rules here do not allow me to be any more specific.
 

onemanarmy

Member
99
0
6
Location
Raleigh, NC
So I got one of the Pulsetech units (without the solar part)

How do you hook it up to the stock 24V Deuce batteries?

(Haven't opened the box yet, just gathering info)
 
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pmramsey

Active member
460
191
43
Location
VA
So I got one of the Pulsetech units (without the solar part)

How do you hook it up to the stock 24V Deuce batteries?

(Haven't opened the box yet, just gathering info)
You may not have the complete diagram and instructions for installation especially if you have only the distribution box. PM me with your snail mail address. I will send you a hard copy of the complete installation procedures.
 

Aruba1

New member
48
0
0
Location
BHM
The input on the pulsetech is 12V, 24V+ and 24V-. The output is 12V (4 lines) and 24v (8 lines). Is this a step down or to obtain 12V output you also need 12V input? I am a bit confused. Can you please clarify. If this is a step down and I don't need 12V input to get 12V output that would be nice and very economical.
 

pmramsey

Active member
460
191
43
Location
VA
The input on the pulsetech is 12V, 24V+ and 24V-. The output is 12V (4 lines) and 24v (8 lines). Is this a step down or to obtain 12V output you also need 12V input? I am a bit confused. Can you please clarify. If this is a step down and I don't need 12V input to get 12V output that would be nice and very economical.

No step down. The PulseTech unit has two input cables coming off the batteries going to the distribution box: one 12V and one 24V.

Finding a convenient place to mount the distribution box can be a challenge on a Deuce. I do not have a bench seat in my M35A3; I have two single seats and I mount the box on the back wall of the cab between the seats. This allows all my wiring to be routed under the padded floor mat to the panel for accessary switches with reasonable access to the battery box. (On the M939 series trucks, the box is correctly mounted in the first bay of the battery box next to the passenger door under the bench seat.) I run another circuit to the two 24V fans mounted in each upper back corner of the cab. The fans have individual switches on each fan. I mount the PulseTech battery unit condition tester on the left side of the transmission shifter tower next to my right knee. It allows easy and convenient battery monitoring prior to initial startup. One wants to see a red, orange, and two green lights when pushing the test button. Two greens are good to go. One green is still good to go above 32F. On a warm day the orange light is still sufficient for a start but below 32F the orange light in general indicates a no start situation. Testing before every start throughout the day is a good practice as it allows early detection of inadequate charging during the previous operation and/or poor electrical grounds or parasite draw downs in the system.
 
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pmramsey

Active member
460
191
43
Location
VA
One additional comment or rather a warning. If mounting the tester device to the transmission shift tower, use short screws. Too long and the screws will interfere with the shifting. I learned the hard way!
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,785
747
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
I have installed one of these for a member here locally. While I agree, they are nice, it is still just a simple tap off a single battery for 12v. That creates an un-balanced load on the charging system. Imho, I'd still not trust it and use a battery equalizer.

Just one mans thoughts, I respect Mr. Ramsey and what he does, but it isn't for me.
 

Jbulach

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Sunman Indiana
I have installed one of these for a member here locally. While I agree, they are nice, it is still just a simple tap off a single battery for 12v. That creates an un-balanced load on the charging system. Imho, I'd still not trust it and use a battery equalizer.

Just one mans thoughts, I respect Mr. Ramsey and what he does, but it isn't for me.


I'm considering getting one of these just to check it out, then maybe feeding the 12v input with an equalizer. I think it would likely still be worth the $30 just for the breaker/distribution aspect?
 
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