• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

260 amp alternator

Bryteayes

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
78
113
33
Location
San Angelo, TX
We loose a lot out of the dual volt running 60 of its 100A @12v(current limitations in the windings). With both legs Fully loaded by lighting and depleted batts, it is only capable of ~1950watts. 100A @ 24V is 2400W, so single voltage has ~19% more output available.

if you are still running the 4 battery config, you should really consider dropping to 2 batteries. The alt has trouble keeping them fully charged unless you run long hours. Low state of charge is the biggest killer of batteries which in turn keep the alt in a constant state of overload, shortening its life as well.

For a given amount of power(watts), 24V has the advantage of requiring 1/2 the current, and needing 1/2 the wire gauge, so a 24v solar install has a very large infrastructure advantage ofer a 12v system, especially when you consider the panels are on top of the box/habitat and the batteries are under the box…

You can also have lower current draws from the batteries for a given load so lower Pukert losses in the batteries…
Is there anything on the truck that requies 12v?
 

Ronmar

Well-known member
3,881
7,549
113
Location
Port angeles wa
Is there anything on the truck that requies 12v?
All of the lighting, ~32A on a M1079, ~28A on a 1078. On the A0, it provides the power for the ign switch and VIM(neutral start), which controls 24v ign power.

On the very early A0, the transmissions needed 12 and 24, somewhere in the late 90’s Alison made them either-or, and later versions in the A1 only use 24v…
 

hike

—realizing each day
Steel Soldiers Supporter
538
849
93
Location
Texas Hill Country
So in an M1078A1 (>18550), over time?

1— one could simply disconnect the 12v feed from the LBCD to the PDP (TL80 TO X2); Adding a 24v-12v 70a between 24v bat (X4) and 12v bat (X2);
a— that would allow the factory alternator to essentially charge 24v at 100a as needed;

IMG_3153.png

2— then disconnect two of the batteries while still providing a 12v connection to factory alternator;
a— that reduces the load on the alternator;

IMG_3154.png

3— then when time to replace factory alternator arrives replace dual voltage with 24v 100+a alternator; remove LBDC; remove 12v side of polarity protection (leaving the 24v side allows the left knee and outside battery disconnects to remain functional; remove 12v to alternator (new alternator does not have).

IMG_3155.png

These steps could be done over time, if done in order?
 
Last edited:
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks