3 push start

[Gastrap]

Mine does the same thing. Runs great, plenty of power, good idle, but I have to give it some pedal to get it fired & then it stumbles for about 2 seconds & comes to life.

Ive got no air pulling in through the manifold heater injector, good lift pump, free relief valve, etc. I did find the line from final filter to the pump was never fully inserted through its ferrule..pulled out by hand. I know its leaking back somewhere because its a bit worse after a week than after one day. I'll just have to keep poking around.

 

[Parker2]

^^^Could it be a bad check valve?

 

[cornrichard]

So I haven't been using that deuce much lately, getting ready for harvest. I took it for a fresh tank of diesel and the start problem is clearing up on its own. What kind of crud fuel would the deuce have trouble burning? I filled up in Debuke IA. on the way back from sparta.

 

[WillWagner]

So I haven't been using that deuce much lately, getting ready for harvest. I took it for a fresh tank of diesel and the start problem is clearing up on its own. What kind of crud fuel would the deuce have trouble burning? I filled up in Debuke IA. on the way back from sparta.

Water or just plain ol' poor quality fuel.

For those of you who aren't familliar with Bosch fuel systems, the in tank pump is there to supply the correct low pressure to the gear pump so the correct high pressure can be made. On these engines, the difference in a working and non working pump is minimal, you most likely will not feel a power issue. There might be a hard start complaint depending on what condition the gear pump is in. Yes the multi will run fine in most cases w/o the pump working, but it is a functional part of the fuel system that should be kept in working order. The gear pump is made to boost the supply pressure and not ment to be a suction pump. There is also a check valve at the return side of the fuel pump. If that valve is weak or the spring inside it is broken, the gallery pressure will be low and will bleed off creating a hard start issue, smoke at idle and loaded due to a timing change, and low power. The engine can't suck air through the injector supply lines, there is upwards of 20K PSI in them at the point of start of injection, that stuff WILL cut through your skin like a hot knife through butter and give you a nasty infection.

 

[Gastrap]

There is also a check valve at the return side of the fuel pump. If that valve is weak or the spring inside it is broken, the gallery pressure will be low and will bleed off creating a hard start issue, smoke at idle and loaded due to a timing change, and low power.

Is that charge relief or check valve piston supposed to have a small hole through the middle of it? Mine has about a .030" hole.

 

[WillWagner]

Some are orificed with a screen and some are just a spring and ball. The spring and ball type are mostly on inline pumps and the others are used on rotary type pumps.

 

[Farmun]

In the last couple of weeks, mine has become a 3 push start also. Very irritating to say the least. I think I have found what the problem is. There are fuel lines across the top of the injectors, I have one that is wet with fuel. The line also T's over to the manifold heater I guess, and it is wetter at the connection to the manifold.

I noticed a few minutes ago before I fired her up, that the line connecting the injectors across the top was dry. It is a clear plastic line, so you can see through it. While I was turning the motor over to start, it took the third 10 second try to get fuel bubbling into the clear line. Once I saw fuel there, she started right up. See picture below.

I snugged the connections just a tad, didn't want to overtighten and cut the plastic line, but they are still leaking some. The connections at the injectors are not the real pressing issue, the line at the manifold heater is. The fuel drops down onto the turbo, and I'm getting some burn-off. I don't want to catch the truck on fire, so I really need to replace the lines/connections.

Where do I get what I need to fix both leaks? Will NAPA have the stuff, or is it something special order from somewhere?

 

[coolnick73]

Did you add the clear plastic line or did your truck come that way? I haven't noticed that on mine, but I haven't looked that close.

 

[Capt.Marion]

Did you add the clear plastic line or did your truck come that way? I haven't noticed that on mine, but I haven't looked that close.

Some trucks have them, some have been painted over, and others just aren't made of clear plastic.

 

[Farmun]

It came from Redstone with the clear line. The line going across the top to the manifold is clear also.

I just noticed that I didn't really explain why I thought these were the issues that cause my difficulty in starting. I am assuming that these bad connections are allowing air to enter the system when the IP is not pushing fuel up, and therefore the fuel drains down. Possible????

Are these just a standard compression/ferrule type fitting? Can I take them off and go to NAPA for replacement line and connections?

 

[WillWagner]

NAPA will not have them. McMaster does, P/N 50815K104.

 

[Somemedic]

Typical Air/fuel line that can be had at any truck stop with a service center. They will have the fittings as well. Take them in and show the counter guy so he can match the size.

Clear fuel line LOOKS like what I believe is the same as ice maker water line. <- Should confirm this as the chemical make up may not be siuted for fuel delivery. Sure as hell looks the same though.

 

[Barrman]

Mine needs 3 clicks of the hand throttle to start. Everytime! Hot, cold, just shut off, etc.... doesn't matter. I have the idle set at 800 rpm with the engine hot. 3 clicks gives me 1000 rpm with a warm engine, so it isn't much. It has been this way from the GL lot and 2500 miles of use with straight diesel, mixed oil and almost straight oil. In tank pump makes a nice fountain at the secondaries. I figure it is just the nature of my truck and live with it.