30 amp headlight fuse

[tankie88]

Any ideas why the 30 amp fuse would start to melt? Not the metal part of the fuse the plastic parts.My M1009 has standard lighting.No extras what so ever.

 

[Warthog]

Read the headlight sticky. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?87544-CUCV-Headlight-Circuit

Many people deal with this issue.

All is explained

 

[Recovry4x4]

Yes, dirty or poor connections generate heat and as such, melt plastic. Remove and discard the fuse. Get a new one but before installing it, make sure the contacts in the fuse box are clean and tight. Maybe even a dab of dielectric grease on the fuse blades. As an aside LMC make a plug and play harness that will relieve some of the current load on the fuse all the while brightening the headlights.

Edit: Doh, forgot about the sticky!

 

[tankie88]

Many thanks.I should have look up the page myself (duh) So it's either dirty connection in the fuse box or the big plug on the engine bay wall.

 

[steelandcanvas]

Many thanks.I should have look up the page myself (duh) So it's either dirty connection in the fuse bow or the big plug on the engine bay wall.

Look through all your connections, grounds, etc. I'm not real familiar with the 1009, but check to see if it has a ground strap or wire from the frame to the core support. Sometimes these get dirty and corroded creating a high resisitance connection. Just my .

 

[corelokt]

Once fixed, you should power the lights through two relays (hi and low beams) using the original output wires to control the relays and a power line direct from the firewall junction, then circuit breaker protected as close to the junction as possible, to feed the relays (the circuit breaker self resets and keeps you from totally losing your lights if a short occurs, they will at the least flash on when it resets). I did so and have never regretted it. The lights are brighter, the fuse box and the light switch much less likely to give out. It only takes two good heavy duty relays, some wire and female spade connectors, shrink tubing and a solder gun etc. to do the job right and trouble free. Keep the relays inside the cab, I like to use the panel that removes from under the steering column. Inside keeps them corrosion and water freezing-up free.

 

[cpf240]

LMC has a decent headlight harness kit that does the same thing Corelokt mentioned. It is not made with the best components in the world, but it gets the job done and allows you to keep the factory harness intact.

 

[K9Vic]

For those that plan to install the LMC harness.

Yes you can connect the harness to the passenger side as that is where the batteries are. You will also need to extend the ground wire on the driver side so it reaches the factory ground point at the top. The instructions say not to extend the wires, but extending the ground in fine. There is plenty of wire to run across if you install it correctly, best to remove the plastic grille to get the best fit.

This is a GMC Suburban, but the CUCV is the same method to run the wire. I use plastic tubing in addition for added protection.

 

[cpf240]

... You will also need to extend the ground wire on the driver side so it reaches the factory ground point at the top...

I installed the harness as you mentioned, in front of the front battery, and ran it similar to that shown in your picture. I found that the driver's side ground worked just fine by using the mounting bolt for the horn noise capacitor. In the process, I found another ground wire hanging loose behind the bumper, so ran it there as well.

 

[biggestc69]

I upgraded to the Napa brand that were supposed to be a little bit brighter than stock. So I did and ran it for awhile, month or two. And then the starter quit so while I was checking out the Doghead realy mod under the dash I went ahead and decided to check the fuses. When I got to the 30 amp headlight it had gotten hot enough to not melt but disort the plastic. Ordered the LMC kit, kills me cuz its Chinese and I try to buy American as much as I can but I didnt have time to round up relays and all that, use the truck daily. The kit was ok and seems to do the job. Lights might seem a little brighter but maybe thats just in my head? For peace of mind and a quick solution go with LMC. Price wasnt that bad if I remember correctly either.

 

[Warthog]

The info on the LMC harness and a diagram to build your own is in the Headlight sticky

 

[Cletus09]

I did the LMC mod harness ... And I still have the problem, however I have noticed that the fuse/circuit breaker only blows when I do a lot of braking while maneuvering or in city traffic. I think my problem might be in the fuse block itself. You're best bet might just be to take apart the fuse block and clean everything up real nice. That's what I plan on doing when it get warm outside. Just my $0.02