As an update -
The solenoid was replaced, as was a new internal filter replaced (There is a suction side filter housing available from Allison). This is an internal filter in addition to the two external filters.
Getting the control valve body back in place is a real bear, no two ways about it. It takes two people for sure, and the delicate wiring harness and solenoid assemblies are easily in interference given the tight puzzle, even without the front driveshaft or exhaust mounted. My tip here, is to pull the front yoke with a 55mm socket and Milwaukee Fuel 3/4" or 1" drive impact. While I had the tools to do so, we did not given the manual indicated it was not necessary just "disconnect the driveshaft" which we did. The yoke being removed would have granted an extra 1/2" of play sorely needed.
In the end, for those who crack open your transmission, the only way we felt we could safely install without pinching anything was to remove the three Allen bolts that attach the bottom of the internal harnesss to the Valve body plate / pan casting. This is a triangular plastic molding, but removing the bolts provides much needed clearance to position the pan into place without valve body interference to the casting while positioning. I cut the end off an allen key to make it very small, and used painters tape to temporarily seal the passageways such that if I dropped it, it would not fall into the trans pan / valve body. As a result we could just barely fit the allen key and reposition the wiring harness blots and tighten. The harness is positioned with these internal bolts, but they are not tight to the plastic casting, but tighten to the metal valve body casting, as they allow minor play such that on reassembly, the plastic housing and gasket mate with the hole passthrough on the top of the transmission. This will make sense if you ever do this job.
There wasn't much available on this job in the forum other than a brief reference to R&R of solenoids. The job is tough, time-consuming, and dirty. It was also clear to me, the trans had been into at least once while in the service although the internal filter was dated 05/02 which seems not to have been changed since manufacture.
I feel I am a confident shadetree mechanic, have a wide assortment of tools, and while the trans is now demystified to me, I would rate the job a 7/10 of projects thus far. Tomorrow we bolt things up, re-assemble U-joint on front driveshaft, and hang exhaust followed by transynd fill. Before tomorrow I think we are into this 15 hours or more, a few of them being downright laborious.
That front driveshaft and the addition of the transfer case on the 3060 trans makes what should be a 3/10 normally to a downright PITA. Hope you never have to do it.
BTW, I had visible damage to the E solenoid, and had a 44 16 code, and a few overcurrent codes as well. Even with damage, the solenoids OHMed fine with all previous tests following the ECM, Body J19 connector, and all tests. While it may often be wiring faults, my A1 truck had fine wiring, and all insulation was flexible, and looked new in addition to testing fine. So trust the manuals, and work through the system, and god forbid you get to the trans as did I.
Good luck to those who follow...
P.S. For those in Reno NV or passing through, Smith Power Products in Sparks is a Allison dealer and was the only source that had literally every part needed for the trans in stock!
Thanks Ronmar,
Super helpful. From what I can tell 29507453 which cross references to 5945-01-360-5161 which when searching Allison parts also returns 29537371 so based on this knowledge I believe that 29537371 supercedes 29507453.
I appreciate the haelp, and will go to my best Allison dealer Monday to verify to serial. For others searching the Control Valve is on page 405 Figure 145 of the TM 9-2320-366-34-1 as posted in the TM's.
Thank you all!
JP
