37X12.5X16.5 HUMMER Wheels M1008?

[bshupe]

Right but I think that the further out the wheel goes the more likely it is to rub as the wheel comes back from center. Maybe the 1/2" wouldnt make any difference. I think most people are using 2" spacers but many of the posts about it are older and so more experience may have changed their opinions about it.

 

[1ton cucv k5 turbo]

Im not sure... i'm running recentered H1's with 37" take offs, 4' lift with fenders trimed. And i still rub a little when front is articulated.


i would go with the 2" to start... if they arent what you like, Sell em' to get the 2.5"

 

[ryan77]

Everyone uses the 2" stick with the 2" dont try to be a hero!!! Lol

 

[bshupe]

 

[Thaidonk99]

My 1028 with a 6in lift. I think zero rates would help too

What lift did you use?

 

[twomorestrokes]

The 2" spacers are plenty for steering component clearance. No need to go farther, it will just make tire/ fender interference worse. As far as the spacers not being "hub centric", that doesn't matter if you have the later 12 bolt wheels. Correct me if I'm wrong but from what I've read, there was an early design 12 bolt and a late design 12 bolt. The early wheels were hub centric and used shoulder type lug nuts and needed centering washers under the 12 wheel half nuts to center the two wheel halves. The later design wheels (with the extra centering hole through the halves) were NOT hub centric design and used acorn style lug nuts to center the wheels on the hub.

 

[twomorestrokes]

I have a question about front axle positioning though. I've read where some of you moved the front axle forward an inch with zero rates for more clearance. That is the way I did it on my truck and the tires hit the lower front wheel opening easily on compression with the wheels turned slightly. No issues in the back of the opening. Are you guys having any issues that didn't move the axle forward?

 

[Matt65]

I did not move mine forward, and have had no problems at all. No tire contact when loaded and off road at all. Keep in mind my truck is an on/off road work truck. Not a rock crawler etc. If you plan to be in sticky mud a lot I would consider the zero rates and move the front axle forward to gain more clearance at the rear of the front wheel well.

 

[dan2002dd]

I have a question about front axle positioning though. I've read where some of you moved the front axle forward an inch with zero rates for more clearance. That is the way I did it on my truck and the tires hit the lower front wheel opening easily on compression with the wheels turned slightly. No issues in the back of the opening. Are you guys having any issues that didn't move the axle forward?

I have only cut the fenders and added 2" spacers and my tires hit the back inner fenders when turning sharply. I was planning on moving my axle forward 1" with the zero rates but was unsure if that would solve my problem or then the tires would hit in the front? I know a lift would solve the problem but I use this as a work truck and it just makes it more difficult to get in the tool box.

 

[twomorestrokes]

I believe I have solved the problem. Only the left side hit and it was just at the very lower front fender corner so I tweaked the lower fender inward and cut the lower edge with a cut off wheel. Minor trimming and is not noticeable. I don't have to worry about the passenger side as that fender is bent over anyway from something the troops did to it prior to the surplus sale. No contact with the fender liner at all front or rear. The inch forward position seems fine now.

The next project is moving the rear axle back 1 1/2" with another pair of zero rates to better position the rear wheels in the wells. I plan on removing a couple rear leafs from the spring pack at that time.

 

[1ton cucv k5 turbo]

I believe I have solved the problem. Only the left side hit and it was just at the very lower front fender corner so I tweaked the lower fender inward and cut the lower edge with a cut off wheel. Minor trimming and is not noticeable. I don't have to worry about the passenger side as that fender is bent over anyway from something the troops did to it prior to the surplus sale. No contact with the fender liner at all front or rear. The inch forward position seems fine now.

The next project is moving the rear axle back 1 1/2" with another pair of zero rates to better position the rear wheels in the wells. I plan on removing a couple rear leafs from the spring pack at that time.

Are you going for more articulation on the rear?

 

[twomorestrokes]

Are you going for more articulation on the rear?

Yes. I would like to accomplish a couple things with the rear.

1) Move the wheels back to better center them in the wheel openings

2) Remove some leafs for better unloaded ride and better articulation.

 

[Orlovsky]

I believe I have solved the problem. Only the left side hit and it was just at the very lower front fender corner so I tweaked the lower fender inward and cut the lower edge with a cut off wheel. Minor trimming and is not noticeable. I don't have to worry about the passenger side as that fender is bent over anyway from something the troops did to it prior to the surplus sale. No contact with the fender liner at all front or rear. The inch forward position seems fine now.

The next project is moving the rear axle back 1 1/2" with another pair of zero rates to better position the rear wheels in the wells. I plan on removing a couple rear leafs from the spring pack at that time.

Prove me if I am wrong, rubbing front end. I did a extremely fast job and I completely massacred my front fenders but i had to get out out quick. Here is by beast. (I am new) Please judge. All will be honored.

37s h1s best tire to go with for the price. Rims are a complete other bargain. At this point I would find trued rims non bead locks if your poor. If you got the money go with the locks,

I did not read the threads above, my apologies.

Thanks,
Orlovsky

 

[twomorestrokes]

On an interesting note, I am selling my Uniroyal Loredos on the original rims and I got a call from my craigslist ad last night. turns out the guy put Hummer wheels and tires on his '86 3500 crew cab and got rid of his original tires. He was frustrated with the attempts at wheel balancing and wanted to go back.

How are you guys faring on the balance situation? What are you doing to get them to ride well? My truck drives nice up to 53 and then again 56 and above, but I get a little hop around 55. I hear the correct balance for these wheels is static balance using stick on weights on the inside. My front wheels have gobs of clip on weights on the outer rim and a pile of stick ons on the inside 180 degrees off.

 

[dan2002dd]

I have not balanced mine, just put them on and they ride fine. Now before the 37"s I tried the 36" hummer tires and they rode terrible. I did try balancing and it was like you described. They did a lot better in the mud though.

 

[twomorestrokes]

I have not balanced mine, just put them on and they ride fine.

I can believe that. The rears ride smoother than the fronts and I haven't done anything to the rears. I think I'm going to start over with just plain static or bubble balance with stick on weights inside and see what happens.

The streetability of the truck sure improved with the taller tires though! Feels like a normal truck instead of driving something around stuck in 4LO.

 

[pgwaldner]

these are not h1's but they are 37's on 16.5 rims.

My dog gets in the same position before p*****ing! LOL. Great flex though. Love the truck.

 

[Whitfield]

How are you guys faring on the balance situation? What are you doing to get them to ride well?

I use the chart at imiproducts.com/equal/quantitychart

Equal is a commercial powder used to balance tires internally. Dynabeads is another commercial product doing the same thing.

I've had great success with all of my trucks and cars using internal balance. For inexpensive bulk material I use the miniature Nylon pellets found at the arts and craft store (Think Beanie babies)

37x12.5-16.5 says 6-8 oz. per tire.

Automatically re-balances each time you start and stop.

Works to balance the entire assembly and will road force balance a cupped tire to make it tolerable.


(Yes this is a glorified version of the old BB's / Golf balls method)

 

[dragonman]

Iv run two sets of 36s 8 bolt and 1 pair of 37s 12 bolt on the rear and haven't balanced any of them, rides fine.

 

[serial14]

I've been reading as much as I can on M1008's + 37" HMMWV wheel/tire combos. There is one issue that I don't quite understand yet.

If you are totally willing to cut up the fenders. can you fit 37's on a M1008 with stock suspension? Or is there still not enough room in the fender wells?