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4 inch Lift for M1008

sedone

New member
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Location
Wasola Missouri
Hey Everyone,
I've been lurking for a few months now. I have recently bought my first CUCV from Brian @ BRTruck parts, an M1008.
I would like to ask you guys what your thoughts on where I should get a 4 inch
lift. A local shop will sell me a BDS kit with a block and shocks for just over five hundred. I have a set of 8 Lug 16.5 Steel Wheels with Goodyear 36x12.5's and I know I will have to do a bit of trimming but that's fine with me. Any advice on which suspension company you would recommend is appreciated.
Thanx in Advance.
 

Towman2277

New member
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Location
Saraland, Alabama
I used a 4" "Skyjacker" lift with blocks, shocks, and leaf springs on a 3/4 ton chevy and paid just under $550, and i'm very pleased with the installation ease and ride.
 

1956_4x4

New member
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Location
Crestview, Florida
I put in a 4" Tuff Country EZ Ride lift on a 3/4 ton two years ago. Came with the four springs, shocks, steering arm and hardware for around $750. It has held up well and rides great. I have heard nothing but good about BDS, especially their warranty.

Smitty
 

wyliek

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Chandler AZ
i have tuffcountry on my m1009, 550 shipped, no block, but i dunno about a 1 ton it might be more expensive. I would do a shackle flip if i could do it again, Offroaddesign makes a kit for lik 180 and you keep the stock spring for 4" lift, and then just get some lift front springs, much smoother ride. you can wrap an axle with blocks, but thats w/ some pretty rough terrain tho. ill be doing one this spring on my rig
wylie
 

sedone

New member
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Location
Wasola Missouri
Thanks alot guys, just the feedback I needed. I was also looking at the shackle flip kit from diy4x.com for $155.00 but I think I'll just go with the block for now since it comes with the kit and then maybe upgrade the back when I see how rough it gets. The only thing with the ORD design is that they recommend shimming the 14 Bolt for correct driveline angle, I don't know about the diy one. Both kits look nice though. I am going to make my own front shackles and use greaseable bushings all around. I've been shopping around and the price for the BDS kit is competitive
and that lifetime warranty looks like the deal closer. Since my 1008 was used after her Military service, she's been painted all white.
I know it might be blasphemous to some but I am going to do an abstract Urban Camo on her. Who knows the way it going around here it might be useful for hiding when they drop Martial Law on us! (Just kidding, well kinda maybe not.) I'll post progress pics when I get her up in the air a little. Thanks for your input.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
GA Mountains
Not entirely true. You can use the 3/4 ton kit but it varies in the front. The 3/4 ton uses 4 Ubolts and the 1 ton kit has 3 ubolts and 3 bolts. You might need to get different bolts. Springs should be interchagable. IIRC. I have run into different size shackle bolts as well.
 
225
1
18
Location
edmonton ,alberta
lift...

if your not going with rear springs i'd suggest a rear shackle flip and 4" front springs.
on my m-1010 i found that 5-1/2" superlift fronts are rather stiff.i think any 4" "softride" pack will be fine in front.ORD makes good stuff.

you will likely have to shim the rear axle any way you go.your rear lower shock mounts may have to be modified for shock body clearance (shock dependant)
.the front swing shackles may need to be lengthened to handle the extra travel of a spring with more arch .all you need is an extra 1/2 inch.

your u-joints and slip will be o-kay with a 4" lift.any more and you might have issues with u-joint bind at full extension.i believe 5" to 6" or so is the max for a stock driveshaft.especially the front.

I think that front springs are in fact interchangable with 3/4 ton springs...it's just the rates that change.not the same in back however.on mine i had to modify...

rear shock mounts (lower)
rear brake line mount on the axle
front brake line mounts (frame)
front shackles (7"...a little to long)
added a heavier steering stabelizer
rear u-bolts (they are different than the civvy trucks...which the kits are designed for.watch out for this ,as they cost extra,and most shops don't know about it)
front upper shock mounts needed shimming to keep the eye centered in the mount.

te lesson here is to make sure that the kit or parts you choose are complete in the small details and bits...if you use a shop they WILL charge extra,and labour is expensive.if you use a shakle flip,you can keep the stock rear u-bolts as is.modifying the lower rear shock mounts will almost certainly need doing.they have to be cut off,and moved out away from the axle about 1/2 an inch,then rewelded.you may be able to avoid this running the shocks upside down (body up).this means more expensive shocks that CAN be run upside down...

See how small changes add up? research and plan the desired mods,choose the parts wisely and find a good shop that will dispense advice if you DIY,and spend the bucks on quality parts...you'll then have a solid truck that won't handle like a piece of crap,and maintains good resale value. Happy wheeling!
 

sedone

New member
25
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0
Location
Wasola Missouri
RE: lift...

Thanks Man,
Well put, sounds like you have encountered some obstacles and worked htem out.
I have ordered the BDS 4in. Kit from a local shop, the owner has a civvy 1 Ton with the same running gear as my 1008 so he's was hip to the requirements (Bolts, Nuts and U's) which I have to say I wasn't since this is my first Dana60.
And I am the laborer I am rehabing the underside of my baby at the same time I am doing the lift and tires. I have a little cab corner rust that needs attention too. I will fab my own shackles, mounts, diff covers, etc. Got some good ideas at diy4x.com
Thanks again, Sedone
 
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