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Had some fun in the V100 this 4th of July. Had her in a small parade on Friday and the following on the 4th, see below:
https://youtu.be/TFbbPZwyHPI
https://youtu.be/TFbbPZwyHPI
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4th of July Activities in the V100
- Thread starter Austringer
- Start date
OilfieldRoughneck
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Looks like fun
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Amphibious MVs are at the next level of awesome.
So, did it pass the leak test? Do you have to do the typical axle tear-down and service after swimming?
So, did it pass the leak test? Do you have to do the typical axle tear-down and service after swimming?
General Hood
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awesome.
Rmtaunton
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Very nice
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Carrumba!!
You're a braver man than I be, Gunga Din! Every time I get a yearning to take mine down to Lake Travis, I start calculating the cost of recovery barges, etc., and the darn chicken noises start.
The likelihood of mine ever swimming again is pretty close to zero, I'm afraid, but it sure was cool watching yours do it.
You gave me a bit of pucker around 4:16, but I didn't see a plume of spray from water going through the fan....
I know JimK plans to swim his too when he is done.
Looking forward to your next video "under power".
Cheers
You're a braver man than I be, Gunga Din! Every time I get a yearning to take mine down to Lake Travis, I start calculating the cost of recovery barges, etc., and the darn chicken noises start.
The likelihood of mine ever swimming again is pretty close to zero, I'm afraid, but it sure was cool watching yours do it.
You gave me a bit of pucker around 4:16, but I didn't see a plume of spray from water going through the fan....
I know JimK plans to swim his too when he is done.
Looking forward to your next video "under power".
Cheers
baseballump
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That was great last time I saw a V in a Lake was 1971 at Tiger Lake, Cam Rahn Bay, Vietnam. Driver who put it in the lake was total it sinks you pay for it.
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The only two "big" leaks I had in the hull were:
1. The side engine access door, I had removed the rubber seal a while back when working on it and had forgot to replace.
2. The driver side door, the seal between the top and bottom doors needs to be replaced as it does not provide a good seal at all as most of it is worn away.
Both of these were not a huge issue as it was only a few gallons a minute (combined) and the bilge pumps can handle 96 gpm.
The vehicle listed towards the drivers side because of several reasons.
1. Driver side fuel tank was full and passenger side was completely empty. Up to a few weeks ago, I only used the passenger side tank but the gas started to loosen a lot of sediment and trash and it started to clog up the pickup tube. I thought there was an issue with the carb getting trash in it, so i cut the fuel line, just near the master cut-off switch, added a clear fuel filter, ran the engine and drove it for a few days and checked it and no trash. Switched tanks and she runs perfect. Going to pressure wash the tank out with a 3000 psi washer then forced air dry and coat inside of fuel area with liner.
2. Engine and transmission are both off center towards the driver's side.
3. My 175 lb ass was on the driver side.
What I'm going to do to correct that issue:
1. Once passenger side fuel tank is clean, make sure it is full and driver side is empty prior to swimming.
Other things being done prior to next swim:
1. Going to install backup bilge pumps that run off 2nd set of deep cycle batteries (just in case the 40 year old pumps stop working, though, I really didn't need them too much during the first swim) that can be removed when not needed (batteries that is, not the pumps)
2. I've ordered new seal kits and rubber boots for both axles and will install. ( I checked the rubber boots prior to the swim and no issues with them)
3. Reinstall the original v100 rear axle with the locker after I replace all the seals etc. Right now, I have a M35 axle under it with an open diff.
4. I need to replace all the seals in the transfer-case as I have a leak from the 4x4 selector shaft seal. Will pull the unit to make it easier to do all at once.
5. Might go ahead and replace the front drive line sealed bearing (anyone have one?) or know the NAPA number for it? just to be safe.
Both
1. The side engine access door, I had removed the rubber seal a while back when working on it and had forgot to replace.
2. The driver side door, the seal between the top and bottom doors needs to be replaced as it does not provide a good seal at all as most of it is worn away.
Both of these were not a huge issue as it was only a few gallons a minute (combined) and the bilge pumps can handle 96 gpm.
The vehicle listed towards the drivers side because of several reasons.
1. Driver side fuel tank was full and passenger side was completely empty. Up to a few weeks ago, I only used the passenger side tank but the gas started to loosen a lot of sediment and trash and it started to clog up the pickup tube. I thought there was an issue with the carb getting trash in it, so i cut the fuel line, just near the master cut-off switch, added a clear fuel filter, ran the engine and drove it for a few days and checked it and no trash. Switched tanks and she runs perfect. Going to pressure wash the tank out with a 3000 psi washer then forced air dry and coat inside of fuel area with liner.
2. Engine and transmission are both off center towards the driver's side.
3. My 175 lb ass was on the driver side.
What I'm going to do to correct that issue:
1. Once passenger side fuel tank is clean, make sure it is full and driver side is empty prior to swimming.
Other things being done prior to next swim:
1. Going to install backup bilge pumps that run off 2nd set of deep cycle batteries (just in case the 40 year old pumps stop working, though, I really didn't need them too much during the first swim) that can be removed when not needed (batteries that is, not the pumps)
2. I've ordered new seal kits and rubber boots for both axles and will install. ( I checked the rubber boots prior to the swim and no issues with them)
3. Reinstall the original v100 rear axle with the locker after I replace all the seals etc. Right now, I have a M35 axle under it with an open diff.
4. I need to replace all the seals in the transfer-case as I have a leak from the 4x4 selector shaft seal. Will pull the unit to make it easier to do all at once.
5. Might go ahead and replace the front drive line sealed bearing (anyone have one?) or know the NAPA number for it? just to be safe.
Both
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I've seen videos of them swimming in Guatemala, they all look like they list a bit to port, because like you said above, the whole drive and operator train are in a line up the left side.
Y'all keep this up, and I may have to swim mine one day.
Cheers
Y'all keep this up, and I may have to swim mine one day.
Cheers
turnkey
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Cool run...Put the in-laws in a rubber ride and off you go....
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I got a email from John M, dated 2008
Jim,
Here is an easy test to prep for swimming a V100/150, I used it many
times overseas. Test 1. Close all side lower doors sides and rear.
Install the drain plugs. Insure doors seals and handles are fitting
properly. Then place a garden hose in the hull (I have used fire hoses
to make go faster) then fill the hull up to just below the vent on the
t-case but not over the vent. Inspect for leaks around doors, hull
cracks, axles vent lines and drain plugs and drive-shaft boots.
Test 1A. Use bilge pumps to pump out water, and ensure both pumps are
working.
Test 2. Test outside around headlights for leaks repairs if found.
Test 3. Block or tape off winch cable opening and then fill wench
compartment up with water. Inspect the winch motor boot inside driver's
station for leaks.
Test 4. Test vision blocks and battery access door for leaks.
Prep for swim, silicon fuel cap ballistic covers to hull to prevent
water from entering tanks. Add silicon around gun-port covers too would
help.
The rest is in the manual, but a safety line for the first time in the
water is a good idea. Fix the cable to v100 the other end to a tow
vehicle; drive slowly out in the water until the v100 floats (bilge
pumps on the whole time). In fresh water you will sit lower than
saltwater and the water will almost be up to the bottom of the front
driver's vision blocks.
A trick for level floating, fill only the right fuel tank leaving the
left tank empty, the right tank will counter balance the effect of the
weight of the engine/transmission on left rear for the most part.
And I would say in my operator's classes, safety, safety, safety!!
John
Jim,
Here is an easy test to prep for swimming a V100/150, I used it many
times overseas. Test 1. Close all side lower doors sides and rear.
Install the drain plugs. Insure doors seals and handles are fitting
properly. Then place a garden hose in the hull (I have used fire hoses
to make go faster) then fill the hull up to just below the vent on the
t-case but not over the vent. Inspect for leaks around doors, hull
cracks, axles vent lines and drain plugs and drive-shaft boots.
Test 1A. Use bilge pumps to pump out water, and ensure both pumps are
working.
Test 2. Test outside around headlights for leaks repairs if found.
Test 3. Block or tape off winch cable opening and then fill wench
compartment up with water. Inspect the winch motor boot inside driver's
station for leaks.
Test 4. Test vision blocks and battery access door for leaks.
Prep for swim, silicon fuel cap ballistic covers to hull to prevent
water from entering tanks. Add silicon around gun-port covers too would
help.
The rest is in the manual, but a safety line for the first time in the
water is a good idea. Fix the cable to v100 the other end to a tow
vehicle; drive slowly out in the water until the v100 floats (bilge
pumps on the whole time). In fresh water you will sit lower than
saltwater and the water will almost be up to the bottom of the front
driver's vision blocks.
A trick for level floating, fill only the right fuel tank leaving the
left tank empty, the right tank will counter balance the effect of the
weight of the engine/transmission on left rear for the most part.
And I would say in my operator's classes, safety, safety, safety!!
John
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Thanks Jim. Confirmed - I am not swimming mine!
Cheers
Cheers