badboyblazer
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Need info on installing a 1997 5.9L Cummins into a 1971 deuce. Trans adapters, 24V t0 12V, etc.
Thanks Steve
Thanks Steve
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5.9L Cummins into 1971 Deuce
- Thread starter badboyblazer
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hot rod deuce
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EXCELT CHOICE im glad to see a man who apreciates power to weight ratio, parts avalability, customizability and PURE QUALITY in a diesel
hey man i got just what you need!! im in the making..
a 97 5.9 even
You need to figure out what bell is on the new motor, if its the small #3 your in like flin if its #2 your good too because you can use the stock adapter. Flywheel is some what easy i have the part number you need if you dant have one and a new presure plate is in order. I have done all the reasrch for you! maybe i should get a finders fee? hehe if you want a kick a$$ way to get air and power steering i found a bendix compressor that bolts on, all you have to do is make a simple gear and then get a pump
here are some pics...more to come tonight remember there are 2 pages on there so dont forget the other pics
im almost done with it just a few more details to work out....should be running this weekend finaly.
hey man i got just what you need!! im in the making..
a 97 5.9 even
You need to figure out what bell is on the new motor, if its the small #3 your in like flin if its #2 your good too because you can use the stock adapter. Flywheel is some what easy i have the part number you need if you dant have one and a new presure plate is in order. I have done all the reasrch for you! maybe i should get a finders fee? hehe if you want a kick a$$ way to get air and power steering i found a bendix compressor that bolts on, all you have to do is make a simple gear and then get a pump
here are some pics...more to come tonight remember there are 2 pages on there so dont forget the other pics
im almost done with it just a few more details to work out....should be running this weekend finaly.
badboyblazer
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Thanks for the info, sounds promissing, pics - unable to find to open. Please send them to badboy4x4@comcast.net. I'm ok with a finders fee if the info is good! I don't mind paying for help.
Thank You
Steve Morrison
Badboy Offroad
Thank You
Steve Morrison
Badboy Offroad
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MMM..A C model, now that would be an awsome repower. 250 HP, or better yet, a 300RV engine...1000ft lb o torque without jacking the pump up. The engine would fit, but you might have a tough time with a cooling system stack.
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how about the pics?
alphadeltaromeo
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I 2nd this motion...motion passes...*waits for pics* la la la, dum dee dum...ho hum...OPCOM said:
Jones
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Cummins into deuce
Here's the Cummins I put into my deuce-framed baby HEMTT project. It's out a Freightliner light delivery (Fed-Ex or UPS delivery trucks, armored cars, later bread trucks).
When you stop thinking Cummins/Dodge pick-up application, all kinds of nifty options open up to you. The compressor is a Bendix Tu-flo 550 with power steering pump attached and is a direct bolt-on although you'd need to replumb your temp sender 'cause it ends up being a real tight fit once the pump is in there, as well as a fitting into the side of the pan for compressor lube oil drain (it's bearings are fed off of a line from the engine). I also went with the high turbo mount exhaust manifold because I had the room and wanted to get heat away from the block and filter area. There are even Allison set-ups if you have shift and clutch linkage problems like my set-up, or you just want the option of a set-it-and-forget-it transmission arrangement.
Here's the Cummins I put into my deuce-framed baby HEMTT project. It's out a Freightliner light delivery (Fed-Ex or UPS delivery trucks, armored cars, later bread trucks).
When you stop thinking Cummins/Dodge pick-up application, all kinds of nifty options open up to you. The compressor is a Bendix Tu-flo 550 with power steering pump attached and is a direct bolt-on although you'd need to replumb your temp sender 'cause it ends up being a real tight fit once the pump is in there, as well as a fitting into the side of the pan for compressor lube oil drain (it's bearings are fed off of a line from the engine). I also went with the high turbo mount exhaust manifold because I had the room and wanted to get heat away from the block and filter area. There are even Allison set-ups if you have shift and clutch linkage problems like my set-up, or you just want the option of a set-it-and-forget-it transmission arrangement.
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Tankjeepman
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5.9L Cummings
Yes, please post pictures and whatever other information you have. I have just acquired a 1944 Chevy 1 1/2 ton that needs complete restoration. I was thinking that a diesel what be a great improvement given that it is a 7500 LB vehicle with a 83 HP engine. One of the main issues would be the cost of buying a Cummings diesel. What did you guys pay for yours? Are there issues with electronic controls for these engines?
Yes, please post pictures and whatever other information you have. I have just acquired a 1944 Chevy 1 1/2 ton that needs complete restoration. I was thinking that a diesel what be a great improvement given that it is a 7500 LB vehicle with a 83 HP engine. One of the main issues would be the cost of buying a Cummings diesel. What did you guys pay for yours? Are there issues with electronic controls for these engines?
rdixiemiller
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Look at the date guys, that post was back in 2005 before the big server crash that lost all the photos up to that time.OPCOM said:
area52
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I have been thinking about this conversion for awhile now.
As stated above, if your keeping the original tranny then you will need a SAE#2 or 3 bellhousing for the Cummins.
The Dodge engines don't have the right bellhousing.
I have found that it might be cheaper to get a whole truck(Dodge) than just the engine itself. Also the 2nd generation Dodges are considered the best from what I have heard, 12 valve and non-electric controls, I think the years are 92-98.5? These also have the intercooler that the earlier years don't have.
I was thinking that it might be easier/cheaper to switch the truck out to 12v electric when doing the swap. change the lights to LED's and you probably have to change the intank fuel pump anyway to provide enough fuel for the injector pump.
Jones - you have any part numbers for your swap? compressor#, exhaust manifold # - or where did you get these from?
As stated above, if your keeping the original tranny then you will need a SAE#2 or 3 bellhousing for the Cummins.
The Dodge engines don't have the right bellhousing.
I have found that it might be cheaper to get a whole truck(Dodge) than just the engine itself. Also the 2nd generation Dodges are considered the best from what I have heard, 12 valve and non-electric controls, I think the years are 92-98.5? These also have the intercooler that the earlier years don't have.
I was thinking that it might be easier/cheaper to switch the truck out to 12v electric when doing the swap. change the lights to LED's and you probably have to change the intank fuel pump anyway to provide enough fuel for the injector pump.
Jones - you have any part numbers for your swap? compressor#, exhaust manifold # - or where did you get these from?
Bidslinger
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Re: Cummins into deuce
Jones said:
captain
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RE: Re: Cummins into deuce
The 12valve mechanical controlled engines with the P7100 injection pump are in 94-98 dodges. the 98.5 is a 24valve computer controlled vp44 that isnt so hot in my opinion. Also if you can the 97-98(maybe 96) manual transmition dodge/cummins motors have the much sought after 215hp injection pump. while you can turn up the power on the other pumps the barrels and what not in the 215's are physcially larger and will support much more power (if thats your goal). Lastly the nice thing about the p7100 is there is no pump in the fuel tank. The only fuel pump is the lift pump on the motor so that might make things easyer. The tank on the dodge's just has a screen and a sending unit for the gauge, a feed line and a return line. Hope this helps. Someday if I ever hit the lottery I'd like to do the same swap.
The 12valve mechanical controlled engines with the P7100 injection pump are in 94-98 dodges. the 98.5 is a 24valve computer controlled vp44 that isnt so hot in my opinion. Also if you can the 97-98(maybe 96) manual transmition dodge/cummins motors have the much sought after 215hp injection pump. while you can turn up the power on the other pumps the barrels and what not in the 215's are physcially larger and will support much more power (if thats your goal). Lastly the nice thing about the p7100 is there is no pump in the fuel tank. The only fuel pump is the lift pump on the motor so that might make things easyer. The tank on the dodge's just has a screen and a sending unit for the gauge, a feed line and a return line. Hope this helps. Someday if I ever hit the lottery I'd like to do the same swap.
Jones
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RE: Re: Cummins into deuce
Area 52, see if I can't dig out some more part nos. for you. The compressor is a Bendix Tuflo 550 off of a Ford application and has an attached power steering pump. The exhaust manifold is Cummins P/N 3902347. Another handy item is a thermostat housing that has it's inlet vertical, Cummins P/N 3914409.
Area 52, see if I can't dig out some more part nos. for you. The compressor is a Bendix Tuflo 550 off of a Ford application and has an attached power steering pump. The exhaust manifold is Cummins P/N 3902347. Another handy item is a thermostat housing that has it's inlet vertical, Cummins P/N 3914409.
CGarbee
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RE: Re: Cummins into deuce
I'll just toss in two thoughts on installing the B5.9 series engine... Swap out the 12 volt alternator and starter for 24 volt versions (not really that expensive to do, and you can trade in the existing ones or sell them on Ebay to help offset the cost), and convert the injector fuel shutdown from the electric solenoid (needs power in order for the truck to run) to a mechanical setup (doesn't need power to run, same opertional principal as the multifuel engine shutdown). That way, you get to keep the truck's electrical setup stock and you can still slave start it from any other M series with a 24 volt setup...
For that matter, install the mechanical tach drive on the front of the timing cover (oposite the injector pump) and you can spin the stock tach on your dash...
It's a nice repower setup. I've been wanting to stuff one in a M211 for some time now, but I've been busy with other projects.
I've got it's little brother in my M37... (a 4BT backed by a ZF S5-42).
I'll just toss in two thoughts on installing the B5.9 series engine... Swap out the 12 volt alternator and starter for 24 volt versions (not really that expensive to do, and you can trade in the existing ones or sell them on Ebay to help offset the cost), and convert the injector fuel shutdown from the electric solenoid (needs power in order for the truck to run) to a mechanical setup (doesn't need power to run, same opertional principal as the multifuel engine shutdown). That way, you get to keep the truck's electrical setup stock and you can still slave start it from any other M series with a 24 volt setup...
For that matter, install the mechanical tach drive on the front of the timing cover (oposite the injector pump) and you can spin the stock tach on your dash...
It's a nice repower setup. I've been wanting to stuff one in a M211 for some time now, but I've been busy with other projects.
I've got it's little brother in my M37... (a 4BT backed by a ZF S5-42).
Jones
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RE: Re: Cummins into deuce
All excellant ideas Garbee. I did the mechanical shutdown when I sanitized the engine; and just picked up the mech. tach drive set-up to run the tachygraph I installed in the new dash panel. (Be sure you get the right adapter for the IP gear nut, the first one they sold me was way too small). I'll go 24volt on the starter and alternator closer to getting this thing on the road.
If you have room for it, I was also reminded that there is a deep sump pan for the 5.9s along with an oil cooler for them. Both good ideas for longer engine life.
All excellant ideas Garbee. I did the mechanical shutdown when I sanitized the engine; and just picked up the mech. tach drive set-up to run the tachygraph I installed in the new dash panel. (Be sure you get the right adapter for the IP gear nut, the first one they sold me was way too small). I'll go 24volt on the starter and alternator closer to getting this thing on the road.
If you have room for it, I was also reminded that there is a deep sump pan for the 5.9s along with an oil cooler for them. Both good ideas for longer engine life.