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5 Micron Stealth Spin on Oil Filters Upgrade

builder77

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I finally got in my camera, so I figured I would post some pics of the filter bases I have been working on for a while. These use the 51970XE wix filter which is a 5 micron filter. Currently these only fix the filtration problem with the stock oil system on the deuce. These do not have a one way valve in the filter or base, so they will not reduce the time to oil pressure. These would be ideal for those looking to add a preluber to the engine. A preluber would have several advantages over a one way valve. First the the engine would already have oil pressure as opposed to just reducing the oil pressure lag. Also the preluber would be able to be used to cool the turbo down after engine shutdown. I am testing a version that has a built in one way valve. I figure a nice coat of green paint, and those not will fit right in.
 

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builder77

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I am having some problems getting decent pics. Those white cans are throwing off my camera on those dark metal parts. I am going to make a small run of these to see if people like them. I am open to suggestions if anyone had anything to suggest. The pics are of one of my prototypes, so the final item will have some changes like it will be about a quarter inch shorter. The center tube may end up shorter so it can be used with the 51970XD if it works without leaving an air pocket at the top of the filter.
 

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m139h2otruck

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Looks just like a bigger version of a Mopar slant six filter base!

As a side note, the Mack engine in the new 5 ton tractor uses the same filter element as the multi, but only one. In the base, at the oil port from the pump, is a spring loaded one-way valve that keeps the filter can mostly full after shutdown. Didn't think to get a picture when I had it apart. Filter base below the can has a big drain plug at the bottom, that when drained had over 2 quarts in it after sitting off for over 2 hours.
 

m139h2otruck

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I picked up an M52A1 on ebay in April. See posts in the 5 ton section. The engine is an ENDT-673 Mack, with different (military) oil and fuel filters on it compared to "normal" ENDT's. As I understand it, the Macks were installed in the 5 tons starting in the early to mid 60's and used until the multi's were phased in later on. Horsepower is either 205 or 230+/- depends on who you ask or what you read. Torque is 560 or 600 ft# again depending on who's talking.
 

builder77

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Devilman I appreciate that coming from someone who has also dealt with this same issue.

m139h2otruck I would love to see pics of that anti-drain valve in the base of that 5ton engine. The deuce already has a drain plug built in that the TM suggests being used to drain the filters, so it is halfway there already. Unfortunately I don't think the deuce bases lend themselves to installing a anti-drain valve. There is only one spot where it could go, and that is where the oil first enters the base from the engine block. To me it looks tough trying to stuff something in that 25/32" hole without reducing the flow rate.

The first pic is my filter setup installed on my duece. The height is almost the same as the stock filter can, but due to the filter being wider toward the top they do look a little bigger. You may notice that in the lower right there are some brass fittings. I removed the stock plug, and installed a ball valve. This will make it much less messy to drain my filters. That will also be the inlet location for any future preluber I install.

The second pic is of the stock filter base. It shows the hole where the oil enters the base from the block.
 

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rdixiemiller

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If the oil is coming in through the center tube, you can build a checkvalve to go there. Use a large ball bearing and machine a seat in the tube. A 2 pound spring and a retainer to hold it in place, then cross drill the tube so when the ball moves up with oil pressure it will have no flow restrictions.
 

Knucklehead

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How much do you want to make me a set? That is a fine piece of work, you should be very proud of yourself. I will take the setup as it is now if you will make it.
 

m139h2otruck

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Oil flows from the outside to the middle of the elements, so a check valve in the tube would be bad. If the casting where the oil flows from the block to the filter housing was shaped right, a ball check could be installed at the 90 degree turn with a light spring so the filters would stay full. Another option, use non-draining spin on elements.
 

devilman96

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Oil will still flow in one direction or the other... There is no way to stop that reguardless of valves, tubes, etc... Even if the filters are / were kept full you still have to live with 4-6 seconds of PSI time to fill the cooler and journals... Valves are a total waste of time and the cost to get 2 check vlaves of workable size into the system of good enough quality would run you about 270$ each...

Just getting the better filtration rate alone will get you a huge increase in engine life, a prelube system would be second best for helping out but is not going to make near the improvment filtration does...

:deadhorse: :deadhorse: :deadhorse: :deadhorse: :deadhorse:
 

builder77

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Well I am up to about 150 miles with these filters on the truck with no leaks that I can find. I am not noticing any pressure drop at all. That is no surprise to me as my adapter basically just improves on the original design. Also the original 1133 filters are capable of 11-13gpm of flow each while the 51970XE filters are capable of flowing 28-30gpm each. This may explain why I think I am getting a little higher oil pressure when cold with the better filters. The pressures otherwise look the same.

I expect to be posting a listing in the classifieds shortly for anyone who is interested. Everyone who has contacted me is in line if they decide to go ahead with purchasing one. I am going to make a batch of about 10 sets for now.
 

Knucklehead

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I just installed Builder77's kit. It took less than 3 minutes to install, I timed it. The components were of high quality, with great engineering and it included everything needed. The engine is a Memphis Equipment rebuild, and is now ready to go in the truck. I spun the engine over with a 1 inch impact wrench and had oil pressure in less than 5 seconds. Since the truck is a 5T filter access will be eaiser.
 

OPCOM

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I just installed mine today, it was finally cool enough outside to do it. Only 93 degrees. So now to pack up the bolts and send them in.

These look very nice and don't leak. Also the parts are very heavy duty and everything needed for the job was included.
 

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OPCOM

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I bought a generator from Sermis, but it has to be tested before I will take the considerable trouble to install it. I also need to buy a pulley for it so I can keep a ready spare. As for the repaired one, It still works fine and I been slackin' for sure.. The repair has required zero maintenance. I also got a 'parts' generator from Sermis that doesn't turn. I think I might be able to take the front case and use it to fix the broken case on mine.
 

cranetruck

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Patrick, what's the procedure for changing them, will you need to drain them first?
Don't forget to add a filter wrench that is large enough, to your tool kit.
 
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