5 ton clutch problems

[2deuce]

Got the clutck out and found the problem. The pilot bearing had disintegrated and the rollers, & pieces of the race have ground up between the flywheel and disc. The only thing left of the bearing was about 3/4 of the outer race, everything else was ground up except about 6 or7 rollers which were bouncing around in the open area where the flywheel bolts on. I have only moved the truck by backing it up my driveway into a building which was about 100'. I'm lucky that the clutch worked when I was parking the truck or it would have tried to go through the wall of my building before I knew I had a problem. There was no noise or feeling in the clutch while I was moving the truck, but the prior owners I would expect would have known there was something wrong in there. I'll try to get a picture of the disc.
The flywheel needs to be resurfaced. I have removed the bolts but I will have to buy a puller. The bolts were safety wired. Is it necessary to do this when I reinstall? The RPM's arent that high and I haven't seen that in cars. I'm wondering if locktite would be OK instead. Also can anyone tell me how tight to torque those flywheel bolts when it goes back together? Thanks, Greg

 

[devilman96]

Greg the torque specs are in the TM... I would suggest downloading it and reading though the clutch change procedures as well as reading the specs for the pressure plate and flywheel grinding. Also you don't need a puller for the flywheel, it's just a very "snug" fit... Put a longer bolt in the crank and leave it loose so the wheel can not fall out you, grab a pry bar and give her a few yanks... Rewire the safely wire... It is there because of torque and pressure, not RPM... Some things you should look at / pay attention too.

Before yanking that wheel off punch mark the wheel and crank so you have a visual alignment when reinstalling. It only goes on one way but that thing is HEAVY and it much easier knowing exactly what hole lines up where.

Have the pressure plate surfaced also... Doing one and not the other is errr ummm "stoopid". At which point ya might as well have the disc redone... If so insist on high performance pads.

Low mileage pilot bearing failures are almost always due to being broken (cracked) on install.... Inspect the transmission shaft closely for signs of being forced. Clean up any scoring on the shaft.

When you get the wheel back from the machine shop use a tap to "chase" all of your pressure plate threads and blow them out...

As stated before... get new pressure plate bolts...

Change your rear main seal... Don't "debate" just "do"!!!! The rear transmission seal you can debate on lol...

Good luck... I know its a PITA of a job

 

[2deuce]

Thanks for all the advice. Unfortunately I can't change the rear main seal without pulling the engine. The flywheel was tapped for puller bolts so the removal went easy but it sure was heavy. My concern is with the 6 pins that go along with the 6 bolts that attach the flywheel to the crank. What keeps them from working out? I think they will need some lube to go back in. Is this a bad idea? Thanks again