5 ton dump truck adventure ready to start

[Robo McDuff]

OK, made it to the Netherlands friday night, 900 km in 11 hours, with a few hours of legally driving 160 km/hour (100 miles/hour ). Hopefully the road back will be very very slow and noisy.

The owner was out already, so we will do the paperwork monday. Had another look a the truck saturday (no camera, sorry). Some damages I had not seen yet, but most I had.

The simple things: cabine
Passenger side front window with cracks
Passenger door window shot at (litterally it looks)
Both doorlock systems busted, passenger door locked with rope, driver door with padlock outside and sliding bolt inside
Both door have some serious rust and rot in the front lower corner.
(how much does a door set you back in the US?)
Some interesting moss species in the cabine and a nice swamp in the dump body

Softtop top part rotten, back part ok. This town is full of people working on and with old sailing freight ships, so repairing canvas top should be no problem and probably cheaper than buying a new one.

Some holes in the exhaust pipes
Batteries dead. Off course the battery box only takes two nato standard or US standard square batteries, not two of the normal elongated batteries standard in Europe.

Four tires (11.00x20) about 40 - 60%, but with cracks in the sides, the rest way below up to slicks and showing steel, also of different manifacturers. BUT, and you won't believe this, THERE IS A BRAND NEW TIRE in the spare tire rack probably 37 years old. Getting a good and cheap set of 10 used tires will be a problem, new ones I cannot affoard

Winch without wire
Front bumper rather busted but easy to straighten.
Main fuel tank (driver side) with top, but white corrosion around the filling hole
Secondary tank (passenger side) with a paint can lid to keep the water out, both tanks almost empty.

The one maybe worrying technical thing that I could see for now was that on the driver side, around the back part of the front spring, there was some dark wetlooking grease (pictures tomorrow). Have to see where that comes from.

For the rest, I talked with those guys some more, and found out later that a friend of my brother had worked there and knew the truck.

Technical hear-say
They always used standard road diesel
They never did real maintenance, changed any filters an such, but at the beginning of each sumnmer season, they topped off the oils and coolant systems.
The last two years, the batteries were dead, so they just started it by pulling it with a tractor, no problem starting it like that.
For the rest, the truck always ran, no probs.
Hydraulic system and winch always worked, winch cable broke when they were trying to unroot some too big trees.

Tomorrow the paper work and hopefully cleaning it with high-power waterhose, then the real work starts. Hard to keep myself back, but I will not try starting it untill I checked and cleaned the fuel system.

Look for updates and new pictures, I'll keep you posted

 

[Robo McDuff]

I now legally own a 37 year old rusty 5 ton dump truck with a swamp in the dump body

 

[armytruck63]

Ah, but if the dump mechanism works, you can dump out the swamp in a muddy pile.

 

[mckeeranger]

I now legally own a 37 year old rusty 5 ton dump truck with a swamp in the dump body

Congratulations! I love our 5-ton dump. (XM817) We have less trouble with it than we do our Deuce. We've had it for 15 years and have had to replace the injector seals once, converted to a spin on primary filter, and last year put on a new set of tires. Other than that it has been regular maintenance. (Other than cosmetic stuff like paint and a new soft top)

The good news about the doors is, your truck shares the same cab as the M35s, so body parts are pretty plentiful.

 

[mckeeranger]

Ah, but if the dump mechanism works, you can dump out the swamp in a muddy pile.

Good point.

 

[Robo McDuff]

Want to change the fuel filters and clean the tanks before starting it. Very hard to restrain myself, just waiting to hear it roar for the first time and see it dump the swamp.

 

[Robo McDuff]

OK Some detail pics

1 The biggest rust problem: passenger door and hole in exhaust stack
2 Aux tank lid, but no corrosion inside
3 main tank lid, corrosion around the filling hole
4 Tire: US Army REOR
5 Brand new, but how old
6 oily grease: hydraulics from steering system?

 

[mckeeranger]

It's hard to see the spare in the pictures, but it and the tire on the ground look like retreads. Not a big deal on the back, but I wouldn't put them on the front.

On your first post in this thread: I wish we had a place to drive 100 MPH in the USA. I would still own my turbo mustang.

 

[jollyroger]

Nice find. Especially in Europe.

The white stuff around the tank filler is shellack. Wreckerman said that's what it was a while back. I don't think you can do much about it unless you drain the tanks and bust it off with an abrasive of some kind. Someone else may know how to chemically deal with it but I don't. It should not be a problem though as all of my trucks have that same thing and they run fine.

The rust on the doors is the last thing for you to worry about and like said earlier easy to find doors as they are the same on an M-35.

The spare should be good unless it is dry rotted or weather checked. It looked good in the pic.

You can single out the rear and run just six tires to get it home to save you some money. You are not driving it loaded. But those six tires better be good ones. Put the best two tires on the front axle. Run the rears dished out for the wider track.

If they did not do any preventitive maintenance I would change the oil and filters BEFORE you start the truck. If no filters are available at least change the oil.

Change the fuel filters and drain the old fuel. If fuel filters are not available drain the fuel from the tanks and filter housing and start with fresh fuel.

Open the drain cocks on the air system and drain any water out.

Check coolant and power steering fluid. Top off as needed.

Check diff fluid, tranny fluid and t-case fluid. Top off as needed.

Check brake fluid before you start the truck add as needed. Then recheck after you start and run the truck for several minutes and the air pressure fills up. Add as needed again. Operate brakes in place several times. Check for drips off the backup plates and down the inside of the tires. If you see that the brakes gotta be renewed before you move it. Otherwise continue to check the fluid level and for drips until you are ready to start for home.

If you can find the old winch rope get it even if it is broken. The leader chain and hook are important pieces that you would not have to purchase if you can find them. There is a proper winch rope that you need to use rather than just some steel cable. If you find the old broken one you will see what I am saying.

If you can't find anyone to fix the top get some cardboard and duct tape and "make" yourself a repair piece. That's what i had to do when I brought mine home.

BTW some pics of my M-817. The first two driving it home from California with the cardboard top. The second two with the "cargo" top on the dump bed and troop seats.

 

[pwrwagonfire]

...winch always worked, winch cable broke when they were trying to unroot some too big trees.

Look for updates and new pictures, I'll keep you posted

Glad I wasn't around when THAT happened!

But congrats on the new toy man!

 

[Robo McDuff]

The white stuff around the tank filler is shellack. ... It should not be a problem though as all of my trucks have that same thing and they run fine.

Thanks, that's a relief.

We spent a day on getting some stuff and make a first check.
Commerce does old army stuff. Turns out he does the European stuff, his brother in the south of the Netherlands the US stuff.

So I bought a pair of Nato standard batteries. The real ones, boy are they heavy SoBs. And rear lights, the round combi ones from Dutch and German army trucks. Looks fitting, and they are a bit safer and more in line with today's highway standards. Add a wheel nut wrench, a 15-ton hydraulic jack, and two original Reo mirrors and it sets you back about 200 Euro.

Did not buy tires yet, want to hear what the state checking station says before I start spending big. Used Michelin 11*20 are 50 Eur. they had some pretty good so-called Nato Standard Tires, for 75 Eur. They did recomment not to use the typical US tires and profile as being less comfortable on normal roads.

Back with the truck, we first checked the tanks and replace the batteries. Aux tank (passenger side) was in bad condition, but it turned out that somebody had already disconnected it from the system (actually, just cut all the wires and lines).

Main tank drvier side looked actually pretty good when we lifted the pump house lid. The primary filter did not give anything when we checked without electricity turned on. Had to repair the connections to the fuel pump. Then we switched on the electricty. Man that low air pressure warning is ear splitting and nerve killing.

But what came out of the filter was pure sweet and totally clean diesel, no water, no debris at all!.

Oil and water levels looked ok as well.

So I know it is stupid, but I could not resist push that little red button, just to hear what would happen. Just a short cough and a large spark. Really should renew those battery clamps. We retightened them for now and tried once more. No hydrostatic lock and......

....boy, is that a sweet and nice purr coming out of that engine. Over a year, and it runs without a prob.

We killed it directly, will continue to check the small problems and give it a better check-over tomorrow, it was raining and getting pretty dark already.

One thing. When switching on electricity, the oil pressure gauge immidiately smashes from zero to max. Given the bad connection to the fuel pump, I would suspect another bad connection. Any other suggestion?


Jollyroger, thanks for your list. Most of it was on my list also. Unfortunately, my only possibility for a state check was this friday, so I will check as good as possible tomorrow, but have to leave all the replacing and refilling afterwards.

 

[jh1990]

your oil pressure gauge issue, should just be a ground. atleast thats where i'd look first plus thats what the issue was with my dad's M35

 

[123mack]

I looked at that Commerce site. Good thing that Faun 8x8 is in Europe, lest I be severly tempted.

 

[Robo McDuff]

I looked at that Commerce site. Good thing that Faun 8x8 is in Europe, lest I be severly tempted.

They have lots of them sitting there. Most go to Africa, but America is possible as well. If I don't forget, I'll get you some prices.

 

[jollyroger]

Congratulations on the truck fireing up. SWEET!!!!!!

I know man. I get impatient too. And if the fluids are topped off I kick it in the guts just to see what I have.

And you gotta do what you gotta do. Sooner or later you have to drive it. If that means the brake fluid is topped off and the brakes work and you don't see leaks.......Well you know.

Sounds like you got a good head for this and know what you need to do.

All I want to see is more pictures and hear about your continued success.

 

[Robo McDuff]

Sounds like you got a good head for this and know what you need to do.

Most important, I sometimes know when to shout for help. Yesterday I had a friend of me there. She is skipper/owner of a 65 feet tjalk (my brother had a 50 feet one). This is a 101 year old sailing barge used for transporting goods through the Dutch waters and accross the waddensea and baltic sea. Hers is still actively sailing (charters for up to 15 persons, look at something similar). She replaced the original old diesel engine and does her own mechanics including hydraulics etc. Used to work with old and dirty things. Extra plus: she's rather small, with small, agile and strong hands. A lot better for getting at engine parts and under cars than my 6 ft 2 and 220 Lbs.

The bad thing: everytime I tell something impressive about my 37 year old 5 ton, she tops it with stories about her 101 year old 40 tons .

 

[Robo McDuff]

OK, dumped the swamp !!

The oil presure gage was a lose contact.

Did about five miles driving four times up and down a straight road today, shaking and noise like ****. Maxabout 30 mph, did not dare to push harder yet. The biggest surprise was that, after we figured out all the knobs and dials worked AND got them unstuck and working, all the ligths worked perfectly in one go, so did the dump.

Anybody ever erected a shrine for WD-40? If so, please make some offerings for me

So tomorrow is the big day, please keep your fingers crossed.

There are for sure three points why the truck will not pass:
- windshieldwipers don't work (no time to figure out why)
- handbrake cable stuck (no time to replace it)
- horn-claxon does not work (no idea why not)

Two maybies
- free play in the steering wheel
- tires

But most important, they will see the truck and hopefully say, if you repair this and that, you passed and you will get a Dutch registration.

No use in wasting big bucks before I hear them say that when standing in front of the truck (amizing how often they say yes on the phone and no when you are there).

I'll keep you posted, tomorrow with pictures.

 

[jollyroger]

The windshield wipers are turned on by rotating a knob that is to the right of and under the steering wheel next to the steering column. They are air operated so the more you open the valve the faster they go. Problem is that they will not run unless the little red button is popped out on the left side (from center) of the wiper motor. It takes quite a bit of pressure, turning of the knob , to push the red button out. Once that happens the wipers will take off so be ready to dial the air knob back.

 

[Robo McDuff]

Ok, failed the Dutch DOT inspection, as expected.

But the people gave me the list of what should be done to get it fixed AND without problem get fully Dutch registration and even historic license plates. And I drove 15 miles with it, speed increasing from 30 until I even broke the 35 mark. Enough reason for smiles.

Here is the list for those interested. I put it in order of seriousness and problems - money it might cost to replair it

1) Free play in steering wheel. I can have 30 degrees max, I have 45. Besides, you need an elephant to help you turn the wheel one moment, next moment it goes much smoother but still heavy.

2) Brakes work uneven and it pulls heavy to one side when braking. Probably a case of pulling all wheels and brake drums and look and clean. Hopefufully not much money but defintely a lot of work. I made it lighter by letting a "quick tire replacement service" loosen all nuts.

3) On the tandem, one of the brake hoses and one fixed brake line is belwo standard. Advise is to change them all.

That are the most serious/labor intensive/expensive things. The rest basically is Do It Yourself on a sunny saturday afternoon:


4) One tire should be replaced, the rest is OK (better, the rest falls within the absolute minimum DOT criteria, that is, no canvas visible).

5) Both door lock systems are shot. They shout work properly inside and outside.

6) Passenger door window is broken with sharp edges. Out or replace.

7) Wipers don't work and are without rubbers.

8 ) Exhaust stack has holes, should be repaired

9) On the passenger side of the car. I need a "side walk mirror" looking down to the sidewalk along the side of the truck.

10) Forward facing orange reflectors on the dump body should be white or removed.

11) I need a new set of main lights because these are too close to the center of the car. They can be max 20 inches away from the side of the car. I will put new European ones next to the turning light, in a nice duplicate housing.

12) Ditto for the tail lights.

13) Hand brake cable is stuck. Just replace, brake itself is free.

14) Pintle hook is not possible.

As to the light, in front I will make some new housing just inside the turnin lights, and use European head lights for this. The originals wll stay in their own place. Same for the rear. The new lights will operate on an independent new wiring circuit including switches, so I can keep the originals. Probably quicker than shifting the wiring and easer in daily use.

So, some work in front but if the steering problem can be solved simply, I am half-way home on this.

And now just some picures. Like I said, the swamp is out.

 

[Pawnshop]

No pintle hitches in Holland? How do they pull heavy trailers behind dump trucks? Do they have exemptions on these inspection points for Historic Vehicles? It sounds to me like they want that truck to meet current commercial vehicle requirements.