50/50 Mix for Multi

[ygmir]

RE: Air powered transfer pump

What centrifuge, TommyG45?
as in, what brand/model?
I still think that's the way to go, if, I could find one I can afford.
I'm trying the rope in the bucket, 'wicking' into another......it's not moving yet, but, I hope soon........
I'm trying manilla rope, and, a piece of stuff, it lookl like rope, but, it's brown paper wrapped with a nylon webbing to hold it together. I think its for sewing or some sort of craft.......I'll see which works best.........

Henry

 

[bottleworks]

RE: Air powered transfer pump

The Deuce Air system should handle that pump fine.

 

[TommyG45]

Centrifuge

Henry,

I placed an order for the OC20 from Dieselcraft.com

It was all totaled around $319.00 and change including shipping.

It's a big nut up front and I thought about not doing it but the time savings and the fact that you don't have to mess with filters weighted significantly in my final decision.

I will still filter the oil to get the big stuff out prior to it hitting the centrifuge, but this is really no big deal, and minimal impact to the process as compared to when using filters near the 5 or less micron range.

Some thoughts into the decision process.

1) Time

2) Quality of the finish product

3) Cost ROI (Return on Investment) of fuel in Cleveland anyway was $4.80 /gal last I filled up in my VW TDI

4) TCO (Total Cost of Ownership) over time if you consider buying filters, cost of shipping, trips to the store and so on.

My goal is to keep this as simple as possible. I am going to mix the oil with gas prior to spinning it through the centrifuge, clean them both up prior to hitting the deuce.

This eliminates the need to heat the oil to thin it out prior to spinning, and all the related electrical and plumbing to do this. (keep in mind, if your cleaning strictly oil, you have to heat it to thin it.)

The other thing I am toying with is using my current air compressor to control the OC20 so I don't over drive it. If you read on the OC, it needs a 2.2gpm pump at 90psi with a bypass valve to control how much oil is sent into the process. Actually 90PSI is recommended, depending on the pump you get, @90psi, you can still have too much volume flow and flood the centrifuge.

I can't prove this yet, but if I can take the mechanics out of the front end process and have a high degree of control over the input, I am pretty sure I can make this work and have the ability to play with the variables to optimize the performance and quality of the product.

Worst case I have to purchase a pump that they recommend. If you shop around, you can find pumps and motors to their specs for about 150 bucks less.

The other thing to keep in mind is just the fun factor.... This is fun, measured by the eye roll count received by the wife.

TG

 

[TommyG45]

Re: RE: Air powered transfer pump

The Deuce Air system should handle that pump fine.

Thanks General.
The research continues.

TG

 

[Rocco]

RE: Air powered transfer pump

I mix kerosene With motor oil.
Has anyone tried the kero/oil mix on the 250 cummins?
What do you think about that?
I ran it for a week and and nothing bad happened.

 

[ygmir]

RE: Air powered transfer pump

HI TG,
thanks for all the info.
I was looking at the "Simple Centrifuge", at their site. Trying to compare cost and function with Dieselcraft.
I kind of like the SC product since it's just a motor and bowl, with a tube for collection, but, wonder how they compare as far as finished product. Cleaning seems easy with SC, I wonder how/if you need to clean the DC unit of sludge? Is there a fail-safe that keeps the sludge from contaminating the product if it builds up to much? There's not on the SC, you have to watch the sludge and clean it before it overflows.........

the rope experiment continues.........also......

Thanks,
Henry

 

[joesco]

RE: Air powered transfer pump

An excellent thread, let's beat them at their own game. Knowledge is power! At $4.79 / gallon at my local sunoco, this information is sought after, for me at least!!!

 

[2deuce]

Do any of you guys that are mixing WMO have a pyro on your engine? I'm curious about temps and turning up the fuel on the IP if your horsepower drops some using the mix whether gas , diesel or kerosine is the cheaper additive to the WMO.

 

[presto_z]

are you still seeing 10mpg with an oil mix??

 

[bottleworks]

Re: Centrifuge

(keep in mind, if your cleaning strictly oil, you have to heat it to thin it.)

Why is this so?
I can understand WVO, but not WMO. These were designed for motor oil. I have a setup that I am 95% done that uses a 1970XD oil filter and a Spinner II 76 series centrifuge to clean WMO. I planning on not heating it. I should have it running on Sunday...We will see.

 

[TommyG45]

Re: Centrifuge

(keep in mind, if your cleaning strictly oil, you have to heat it to thin it.)

Why is this so?
I can understand WVO, but not WMO. These were designed for motor oil. I have a setup that I am 95% done that uses a 1970XD oil filter and a Spinner II 76 series centrifuge to clean WMO. I planning on not heating it. I should have it running on Sunday...We will see.

When I spoke to Dieselcraft, the guy I spoke to John, said that you have to break the vicous bond between the oil and the contaminates. You can heat the oil first, thus thinning it out and breaking the bond, or you can mix it with gas or diesel to thin it out to break the bond. John did both with the same results. I want to go down the premix route firt as my infrastructure allows me to build this the quickest, I want to experiment "excuse to play" with differnt %s of gas, diesel, kero... so on, and see what actually works the best in the cleaning process. I know the deuce doesn't care.

It will be fun to find just the right cocktail for the deuce, and one that optimizes the cleaning process, and oh yeah, saves money. I have to keep reminding myself why I am doing this

TG

 

[TommyG45]

Umm, viscous bond that is....

TG

 

[TommyG45]

General,

Cant wait to see what you come up with. I would love to see pictures. It will be interesting to see what kind of results you get running straight oil @ room temp.

TG

 

[cbvet]

FWIW-
Using sock or bag type filters down to 1 micron. I don't heat or thin oil first. At 55-60 degrees room temp. I've had no problems.
Eric
CBVET

 

[ygmir]

Eric,
Can you describe the bag type filters and methods more, please?
I'm looking at Grainger, they seem to be about 18 bucks each, lots of 10......for 1 micron size.
I have a couple of question:
Can/do you re-use them?
How long do they last?
Can they be cleaned?
do you put them over a container and pour oil in, or?........,

thanks for any info.
Henry

It looks like a viable alternative until I can afford a centrifuge, and, the time to build one.

 

[bottleworks]

Re: Centrifuge

When I spoke to Dieselcraft, the guy I spoke to John, said that you have to break the vicous bond between the oil and the contaminates. You can heat the oil first, thus thinning it out and breaking the bond, or you can mix it with gas or diesel to thin it out to break the bond.

Interesting. If it doesn't work out for me, I guess I will have to thin it. I don't have 240V for a heater where I am keeping the setup.

 

[Manstein]

fuel

I work for a car dealer too. I have been scarffing up all the waste transmission fluid and burning it for fuel. I've run up to about 80% waste trans fluid to a mix of gasoline and diesel. It starts fine, runs fine and temps are the same on the pyrometer as straight diesel. Even has the same smoke level out the stack.

I also mix in an additive that we sell from one of our vendors. The additive is made by BG and is called 244k. It has a water absorber mixed in along with some cleaners that do a really great job on the valves and injectors.

This weekend, I drained the fuel out of my Kubota tractor and ran a 50/50 mix of diesel and waste trans fluid in it. Runs great! Cold starts easy and has plenty of power.

I am going to use the filter bag method soon. I have been running this cocktail since last year with no problem in the filters or engine. I do pass the fluid by a magnet and then I let the fuel stand in a barrel for 3 or 4 weeks before I transfer it to the deuce.

 

[cbvet]

RE: fuel

Henry,
I've been really busy lately. You know the world might stop if I don't keep the Slurppees running!
Anyway, in the next couple of weeks I'll post some pictures of the setup I am using, & filter numbers which I use.
In answer to your questions:
I'm told they can be washed & reused, but I haven't tried that.
When I started out I was just using the "gravity" method of filtering. I'd run about 20 gallons of really dirty oil through the 100 micron filter & it would just stop flowing. I came up with a simple adapter & a hand pump that will probably allow me to filter 150 gallons without cleaning or replacing the filter. And remember, that's oil, gear lube, mud, & you-name-it.
I've learned to be more selective as to what I'll use.
If all you can get is really dirty stuff, let it settle for a month then pump-off the top 3/4. Dump the rest. It's just not worth the filters and the time.
Be patient, collect some oil, & I will put out more info. I'm getting ready for Firebase Kokomo this weekend. The following week I have to do a Memorial Program for a buddy, & the Mint Festival parade on Sunday.
After that I've got some time before July 4th.
Eric
CBVET

 

[TommyG45]

All,

I think there is a great mix of many individuals doing things just a little differently. This is great because it allows us to gain the experiences of many, and based on our own unique situations with as many unique constraints, I would love to formalize a best practices write up for all to benefit.

If I put a template together, would any of you be willing to fill it out, that way we can formalize our design criteria, best practices, form fit and function, pros, cons, cost and so on.

Perhas taking a more comprehensive approach to include setups for collecting the oil or materials, transfer, cleaning, storage, and pumping....

What do you think?

Personally, I am in the process of assembling all the components, and will be spending a considerable amount of time on the process just because I find this very interesting.

Thanks

TG

 

[Dodgeman1941]

I have just started running used hydralic oil/diesel fuel. As the same time that I loaded up my first batch, I changed my frame mounted filter with a big spin on to solve the quick clogging issue. I mixed one batch at 40% hydralic and one batch at 50% in two 50 gal pony tanks. When I transfered it over to my M35 I thought the 50% was a little thick, so I combined the two tanks. I took it on a small trip and believe that I got better fuel milage. I've taken the same trip before and used over 1/4 tank and this time I used under 1/4 tank. This makes some sense seeing than the compensator would, in theory, sense that the fuel is thicker then straight diesel and put less fuel in the motor. Here's a couple other theories. If I were to go to either gas, or Kerosene and that would give me a thiner base to begin with, so I could go from 40% hyd to 50% hyd.