reamos
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Does anyone know what size socket are tool used to remove the spark plugs on a XM211?
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52 XM211 Recovery
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reamos
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Does anyone have spark plug cables for a XM211. All mine have broken ceramic inserts and the rubber covering is all cracked.
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This doesn't always work but I googled "spark plug wires G749" and came up with this,
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?30813-Spark-Plug-Cables-for-M211
That's back in 09' so it'll be good to update a source for your area. Where have you looked for a wiring harness? Any parts trucks around?
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?30813-Spark-Plug-Cables-for-M211
That's back in 09' so it'll be good to update a source for your area. Where have you looked for a wiring harness? Any parts trucks around?
reamos
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I purchase a set from memphisequipment.com for $280.00 but thanks for the feedback I will save the website for further use.
reamos
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PLEASE HELP
OK guys this is where I stand on my 52 XM211. All the spark plug wire ceramic was cracked so I replace them with a new set from Memphis Equiment and finely got it to turn over. After checking for fire out of the spark plug and not finding any I went into the distributor and after changing the coil, condensor and cap still no firer. After checking the resistor and everything else in the distributor we came down to the rotor. Now between the contact on top and the firing end we found we didn't have resistance between them. Now there's a section between the two that has a ceramic section. Does anyone know if this is a fuseable link because we sure aren't getting any fire across it. Also we ordered parts from Memphis Equiment and had the parts the next day. Great service!!!!!!!!!!!
OK guys this is where I stand on my 52 XM211. All the spark plug wire ceramic was cracked so I replace them with a new set from Memphis Equiment and finely got it to turn over. After checking for fire out of the spark plug and not finding any I went into the distributor and after changing the coil, condensor and cap still no firer. After checking the resistor and everything else in the distributor we came down to the rotor. Now between the contact on top and the firing end we found we didn't have resistance between them. Now there's a section between the two that has a ceramic section. Does anyone know if this is a fuseable link because we sure aren't getting any fire across it. Also we ordered parts from Memphis Equiment and had the parts the next day. Great service!!!!!!!!!!!
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Pictures man pictures.
I'm not sure if you're talking about the contacts for the points or something else along that line but here's a diagram and some pics. Let us know what you're referring to.
There are two circuits, the quickest way through this is on page 155-157 TM 9-8024. There's a troubleshooting process to see if it's primary or secondary circuit problems. It walks you through step by step and shows where to start testing.
Its just safer if you read through it and use your best judgement on how to troubleshoot. Some of these processes sound unusual and I don't want to be responsible for zapping someone.
PAGE; 156 , para 82. Ignition System
(4) Inoperative ignition primary circuit
(a) Remove distributor cover and rotor. With ignition switch off, turn engine with starter until breaker points are closed. Turn ignition switch on, then open points with finger. If there is a spark as the points open, the primary circuit is complete and will function if the points open and close properly as engine is cranked.
(b) If no current is indicated when points are opened manually, the primary circuit is inoperative. Test primary circuit continuity with voltmeter as directed in b below.
Yes Sir, that's what it says.
Theres only 7 steps to run through the continuity tests for the primary circuit in section b but once you do it, you'll have your answer.
Isn't there something about not starting this until you get pictures or a video?
I'm not sure if you're talking about the contacts for the points or something else along that line but here's a diagram and some pics. Let us know what you're referring to.
There are two circuits, the quickest way through this is on page 155-157 TM 9-8024. There's a troubleshooting process to see if it's primary or secondary circuit problems. It walks you through step by step and shows where to start testing.
Its just safer if you read through it and use your best judgement on how to troubleshoot. Some of these processes sound unusual and I don't want to be responsible for zapping someone.
PAGE; 156 , para 82. Ignition System
(4) Inoperative ignition primary circuit
(a) Remove distributor cover and rotor. With ignition switch off, turn engine with starter until breaker points are closed. Turn ignition switch on, then open points with finger. If there is a spark as the points open, the primary circuit is complete and will function if the points open and close properly as engine is cranked.
(b) If no current is indicated when points are opened manually, the primary circuit is inoperative. Test primary circuit continuity with voltmeter as directed in b below.
Yes Sir, that's what it says.
Theres only 7 steps to run through the continuity tests for the primary circuit in section b but once you do it, you'll have your answer.
Isn't there something about not starting this until you get pictures or a video?
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Crazy thought but did you get 2 batteries in series all set up for 24 volts?
reamos
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We have 24 volts through out the system but no spark at the spark plug. What I was talking about is the rotor itself. the contact at the center of the rotor to the end contact is open. I think it's the black section between the two. You wouldn't think that would open up. Will be ordering a new one Monday from Memphis Equiment.
reamos
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(Distributor Problems) After doing all the voltage checks coming into the distributor and going out to the points this is what I have. I have 25 volts all the way to the points, but breaking the points with power on I have a good spark sometime and other times a weak spark. Nothing through the spark plug cable shorted to the block. got the new rotor, coil, condenser and coil cap. Still no spark coming out of the distributor. I'm dying for this old girl to fire up.
reamos
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XM211 Transmission problems
I got my 211 running and drove it around the parking lot several times. Not having any brakes yet I got to keep it off the road unit I do a brake job on it. I drained the transmission oil and replaced it with NAPA ND 30. I did find a lot of water in the transmission oil. After running it up to temp and capping the oil off I took it out again. I was running it through the high and low gears and it seem to be running just fine. But when going from low F1 to neutral there was a loud clunk and now I have nothing in high F1, F2 or high reverse. It sounds like it boggs down when you put it in gear but it doesn't move.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
I got my 211 running and drove it around the parking lot several times. Not having any brakes yet I got to keep it off the road unit I do a brake job on it. I drained the transmission oil and replaced it with NAPA ND 30. I did find a lot of water in the transmission oil. After running it up to temp and capping the oil off I took it out again. I was running it through the high and low gears and it seem to be running just fine. But when going from low F1 to neutral there was a loud clunk and now I have nothing in high F1, F2 or high reverse. It sounds like it boggs down when you put it in gear but it doesn't move.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
reamos
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Transmission Breakdown
Does anyone have a breakdown of the XM211 transmission?
Does anyone have a breakdown of the XM211 transmission?
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A big bang is always better than a loud clunk. I was real excited for a minute....... you drove it, now I'm kinda bummed, she broke.
If loud clunk meant your linkage pins came loose and the shift rod fell against the frame, you're in good shape. Check all your linkages, u-joints, propellers and anything within eye sight while ya do a complete 'under chassis' inspection.
If it meant that the sassy cone clutch assembly detonated because lots of previous users are saying DO NOT USE HIGH RANGE REVERSE in the G749 series, then we learn to pull a trani.
I never listened either and have used high range reverse with no permanent damage so far, so it's not like you broke it by using HR.
The other items listed on page 163 TM 9-8024 include h, and z,.....Reduction Unit Control Lever Loose on Control Shaft or Reduction Unit and Reduction Unit Control Valve........ and a suggestion to notify ordnance maintenance personnel.
I have never experienced a noise while shifting to neutral so I'm just hoping it didn't go bad on ya. Troubleshooting from linkage to oil pressure will be a start.
Good Luck and congrats on the first ride.
If loud clunk meant your linkage pins came loose and the shift rod fell against the frame, you're in good shape. Check all your linkages, u-joints, propellers and anything within eye sight while ya do a complete 'under chassis' inspection.
If it meant that the sassy cone clutch assembly detonated because lots of previous users are saying DO NOT USE HIGH RANGE REVERSE in the G749 series, then we learn to pull a trani.
I never listened either and have used high range reverse with no permanent damage so far, so it's not like you broke it by using HR.
The other items listed on page 163 TM 9-8024 include h, and z,.....Reduction Unit Control Lever Loose on Control Shaft or Reduction Unit and Reduction Unit Control Valve........ and a suggestion to notify ordnance maintenance personnel.
I have never experienced a noise while shifting to neutral so I'm just hoping it didn't go bad on ya. Troubleshooting from linkage to oil pressure will be a start.
Good Luck and congrats on the first ride.
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Urine luck.
Military trucks dot see eh is back up and has the 9-8025-2 manual ready for your computer. Downloads take some time so have a pepsi.
Bottom of page
http://militarytrucks.ca/m135.htm
Military trucks dot see eh is back up and has the 9-8025-2 manual ready for your computer. Downloads take some time so have a pepsi.
Bottom of page
http://militarytrucks.ca/m135.htm
reamos
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Does anyone have are where to find a reduction unit gasket set for a xm211? I think the part # is 7411649. I just checked with Memphis Equip. and they no longer carry them.
Chet.
Chet.
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All the local boys must still be cropping or calving and too busy to check the barn for parts. Is Memphis the last coyote to have NOS parts???....there are some listed here but maybe not your part #. http://www.militaryvehiclesupply.net/list/13
Can you get pictures? Can you make what you need?
I'll send you a PM for a contact up here.
Can you get pictures? Can you make what you need?
I'll send you a PM for a contact up here.
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Check Alfa Heaven
reamos
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Thanks for the replies I will check those sites out