55 gal fuel storage drum preparation?

[Falstaff]

I acquired two 55 gal drums that contained the hydraulic fluid for an elevator that was just installed. Other than rinsing it out, is there anything else I should do prior to filling them with diesel for long term back up generator storage?

 

[robson1015]

Should be good to go...

 

[reset2]

I acquired two 55 gal drums that contained the hydraulic fluid for an elevator that was just installed. Other than rinsing it out, is there anything else I should do prior to filling them with diesel for long term back up generator storage?

Long term? If couple years there is some anti bio conditioner that can be added. Every so often suck any water off the bottom. It will last almost forever.

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[Coug]

As long as the fluid in it was clean before (not waste oil) you don't even need to rinse them (provided you aren't running it through an engine with a diesel particulate filter) the oil will mix into the diesel and run through an engine with no issues.
As reset2 said, add some diesel biocide, maybe some storage additive like Startron for diesel, then just keep the barrels tightly closed and out of the sun until needed. Come back once a year and check for quality, recommended you use it within 2 years of purchase as it eventually will go bad. If the barrel has a pump installed to recover the fuel, use it within a couple months to be on the safe side.

(the 2 years is just a recommendation, I've started engines that sat for over 10 years with diesel in them and they fired up and ran just fine on the fuel in the tank)

also, make sure you buy straight diesel and not biodiesel. Biodiesel breaks down faster, attracts more water, and just generally doesn't store very well. Most likely what's available is going to be something around B2 or B5 as most states aren't required to label diesel under a certain percent of biodiesel mix, that's why I recommended rotating your storage stock every few years even if it's treated.

Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment Diesel Additive

Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment is a multi-functional fuel additive that uses enzyme technology to stabilize fuel and make engines run smoothly and efficiently.

www.starbrite.com

 

[Welder1]

Be sure to fill the drums up completely. Any air space will allow moisture in the air to rust the inside over time. The best drums to use are former gasoline drums because they are coated on the inside to prevent rust. I also put some water beads in a piece of stocking placed in the drum to absorb any water that may get into the drum.

 

[Ray70]

Are you storing indoors or outdoors? If outdoors, keep covered so rain water doesn't sit on top of them. also, keep up off the ground a little if outdoors to prevent ground contact from rusting the bottom. Lastly, get ready to listen to them banging twice a day if you live where the temp changes at night. The top will "pop" or "oil can" up and down twice a day as the temp rises and falls and the fuel / air expands and contracts.

 

[reset2]

All good information.

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[csheath]

I've had mine in use for 3 years now. They came with some motor oil in them and I just drained the excess oil and filled with diesel. No rinsing necessary.

Mine are stored outside under a shed. I screwed some air compressor mufflers in the 3/4" NPT hole to keep them vented. The mufflers have filters in them to prevent dirt from entering. Bought them off eBay. You will hear pros and cons to this approach. Mine are in N. FL where it is very humid and so far I have had zero issues with water or condensation. I do go through about 300 gallons a year with my tractors, outages, and such so my fuel is rotated. The reason I chose to keep them vented is I've seen photos of unvented drums that either collapsed or swollen up due to temperature changes or pumps sucking them in.

I add the specified amounts of Stanadyne lubricity formula and Killum biocide at each fill.

I set my pickup pipe so when the pump starts sucking air I have 5 gallons left in the bottom. When the tank is otherwise empty I put a 2x4 under the vented side so I can stick a small pump tube in the fill hole and get the last 5 gallons out. When I do that I start by pumping the first few ounces into a clear jar to check for any water. Haven't had a drop of water show up yet.

 

[Falstaff]

Thanks for the tips gentlemen, i will likely be using some of the fuel in a Ram truck with DPF equipped engine so I think ai’ll try to rinse out as much hydraulic as I can. I am surprised to hear that I don’t need to line the drums with an epoxy paint or anything. I have an mmg. 25 USMC genset that had the tank full of dirt, nails, gravel and debris (sabotage by other bidders when Gov liquidation was running things) Anyway, i dropped the tank and had it cleaned and, after a convincing sales pitch, lined with a “lifetime” warranty epoxy product at radiator/fuel tank shop , i was thinking about buying a DIY tank lining product doing myself but maybe not necessary. BTW, i was able to transport both barrels in the back of my prius, they had been set aside for me until i brought my truck to the site, but the Super was getting ready to toss them so ifigured i better at least get one. Aftergetting the first one in , sure enough iwas able to fit the second! The guys on the jobsite thought that was funny.

 

[Falstaff]

The barrels have a sticker on them that says they are “reconditioned” is that a concern?

 

[Falstaff]

Are you storing indoors or outdoors? If outdoors, keep covered so rain water doesn't sit on top of them. also, keep up off the ground a little if outdoors to prevent ground contact from rusting the bottom. Lastly, get ready to listen to them banging twice a day if you live where the temp changes at night. The top will "pop" or "oil can" up and down twice a day as the temp rises and falls and the fuel / air expands and contracts.

On my drive back home with the barrels they popped, startled me..

 

[Coug]

Thanks for the tips gentlemen, i will likely be using some of the fuel in a Ram truck with DPF equipped engine so I think ai’ll try to rinse out as much hydraulic as I can. I am surprised to hear that I don’t need to line the drums with an epoxy paint or anything. I have an mmg. 25 USMC genset that had the tank full of dirt, nails, gravel and debris (sabotage by other bidders when Gov liquidation was running things) Anyway, i dropped the tank and had it cleaned and, after a convincing sales pitch, lined with a “lifetime” warranty epoxy product at radiator/fuel tank shop , i was thinking about buying a DIY tank lining product doing myself but maybe not necessary. BTW, i was able to transport both barrels in the back of my prius, they had been set aside for me until i brought my truck to the site, but the Super was getting ready to toss them so ifigured i better at least get one. Aftergetting the first one in , sure enough iwas able to fit the second! The guys on the jobsite thought that was funny.

If it held oil, there shouldn't be any concern for it holding fuel. Diesel is just another type of oil for the most part.

Adding an epoxy lining is mostly if the tank has existing damage or if you are going to put something inside of it that is corrosive or oxidizing. Diesel is neither of those, and as it'sjust a refined oil, it will keep the metal from rusting (provided you don't let moisture sit inside of it)