6.2/6.5 Turbo Build

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Rutjes

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Have not done it myself yet, but I've been reading into it a lot as preperation for doing so. If it's a side-mount turbo it will fit. Most who do the swap just turn up the fuel a bit, however a Stanadyne 4911 pump would be nice, it's setup for a TD, check what pump is on your donor. Exhaust needs some work to clear the frame. Here's a recent build thread.
 

Barrman

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Yes, the parts will bolt up and it will run great. Getting the crossover pipe and down pipe run will be an exercise in frustration on a CUCV. But, very doable.

Here is what I think is a more important question. Why do you want a turbo? If you plan to hook up a 8,0
00 pound trailer and drive cross country at 70 mph. Then stop right now, go buy a modern turbo diesel truck rated for that.

However, if you want just a little more nudge in the backside stop light to stop light. Want to maintain highway speeds not only on flat ground but up hill as well. Along with better mpg. All with limited use of the boost above a pound or two. Then this is a great modification to do.

A stock 6.2 can have a turbo thrown on with nothing adjusted and it will drive better putting a huge smile on your face. A boost gauge and EGT gauge are a must in my opinion. Turning the fuel up a little makes a huge performance gain. But it comes at a price. The pistons can be melted within a minute if not driven smartly. Head gaskets if iffy now will probably need replacement. The cooling system will be taxed on long high boost pulls even if EGT’s are kept below 1000°.

A 4911 pump is what GM used in part of 1994 when they offered a factory turbo. They then went to the electronic IP soon after. To make full use of it, Diamond pre cups will flow more fire. But, as mentioned above. Cylinder head temps and coolant temps will keep you from using the extra fire for more than a few moments.
 

Rutjes

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I'm going to turbo mine using a HX40II turbo, mounts the same as stock. When you research these engines you will find lots of posts mentioning cracked blocks. Especially the older blocks, like the 6.2.. I would suggest new (thicker) head gaskets, new head studs (ARP seems to be preferred) and possibly a main stud girdle.

Improved cooling will be a nice addition to the turbo as well. A high flow water pump and larger more efficient fan. Paradox by Design makes a kit that supposedly improves cooling on the rear cylinders, they tend run hotter. A large diamter exhaust will reduce EGTs and improve performance. Diamond Eye 4" seems to be preferred by most.

Definitely get gauges. Turbo boost and exhaust gas temperature.

Here's what's on my shopping list that I've come up with after lots of researching. Maybe it's of any use to you:

HX40II turbo
High flow upper intake plenum
FEL-PRO 9521PT head gaskets (0,10" thicker)
ARP head studs
Main stud girdle
Exhaust manifold(s)
Diamond Eye exhaust
Diamond Eye crossover pipe
Stanadyne 4911 lift pump
Balanced flow cooling upgrade
Paradox cooling kit
Champion aluminum radiator
VDO VueLine turbo boost and EGT gauges

I think that's it, might have forgotten some things. I'm also putting the above parts (but keeping stock turbo and injection pump) on my K1500 6.5 TD (I was going to use it's turbo for my CUCV, but I like the truck and am keeping it as a secundary for the company. I tow (heavy) on a daily basis).
 

2INSANE

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Here’s a few pictures for ya.

Restored Oil Pan
Arp Studs with Arp thread sealer (Couple started to leak afterward)
New valve covers
New head gasket with Copper Gasket maker
Gear Drive.
Fluid Damper

I had no power in my garage at the time of doing this...
 

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2INSANE

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Girdle
New mechanical fuel pump
New water pump
New block heater (600 watt)
Badger diesel fuel injection pump
All new gaskets
Restored timing cover with new seal
Original M1009 Dog Tag cleaned up
Off Road Design Motor mounts
The original copper radiator with core replaced to a 4 core at a local shop
Refurbished the timing plate and water plate.
 

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2INSANE

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So I figure since I am crazy enough to take the motor out again to fix the leaking studs I decided to find a turbo/donor and give her some boost!

I found a deal on Craigslist for $300! Had to drive only 3 1/2 hours to Idaho...

As soon as I got home with the 6.5 I was sooo excited that I started to take it apart to inspect the good and bad.

Here’s pictures of the deal and the current tare down as of this wednsday the 8th of July.

All parts seem good except for the broken crank, rods and bearings.

This time I now have power in the garage! Building a house is a lot of work!
 

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2INSANE

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You are all prob wondering what my ride looks like.. I guess I better show you! Yes I am bragging... Over the years she has done some amazing things and seen some awesome places!

 

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2INSANE

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Keeping the M1009 Square body spirit alive... Or is it Frankinstine on steroids?

To those that don’t know... The 6.2 has and is a damn good motor! My pictures are proof!
 

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Rutjes

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What casting is that 6.5 block? Who knows, maybe you got lucky and got an improved one.

That mechanical fuel pump needs to go if you turbo your it. I bought a brand new HMMWV lift pump and had it shipped across the ocean before I figured out that I need to switch to an electric pump... However, you can weld a bung to the oil pan for the oil return on the turbo and keep the mechanical lift pump.
 

2INSANE

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What casting is that 6.5 block? Who knows, maybe you got lucky and got an improved one.

That mechanical fuel pump needs to go if you turbo your it. I bought a brand new HMMWV lift pump and had it shipped across the ocean before I figured out that I need to switch to an electric pump... However, you can weld a bung to the oil pan for the oil return on the turbo and keep the mechanical lift pump.
Looks like a 506? :-( Did not get lucky but the components are still good and heads! That has to mean something!
 

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Rutjes

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Check for a diamond marking in the valley and heads underneath the valve cover. Who knows... I got lucky. So did this guy. If you don't want to read the whole thread, in short, I came across a 6.5 for sale sitting inside an ice resurfacer. Wasn't even looking for one at the time, but it turned out to be a Navistar block.

That the engine came out of a 1996 truck does not mean it's a 1996 engine. Could've been replaced at some point, or even just the heads. Chances are small, but if you did get lucky that'd be good parts for a turbo build if in good condition...

Here's more info on how to identify the block.
 
Last edited:

2INSANE

Member
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Belgrade, Montana
Check for a diamond marking in the valley and heads underneath the valve cover. Who knows... I got lucky. So did this guy. If you don't want to read the whole thread, in short, I came across a 6.5 for sale sitting inside an ice resurfacer. Wasn't even looking for one at the time, but it turned out to be a Navistar block.

That the engine came out of a 1996 truck does not mean it's a 1996 engine. Could've been replaced at some point, or even just the heads. Chances are small, but if you did get lucky that'd be good parts for a turbo build if in good condition...

Here's more info on how to identify the block.
No Diamond mark... Not lucky... Darn
 

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2INSANE

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I have a friend that has a banks turbo set up without the turbo for $400. Everything I would need except the turbo.

I am thinking if I bought it from him could I put the 6.5 turbo on the Banks Exhaust Manifold? Would that be a better set up?
 

Rutjes

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Can't answer that. Tried to find some info but couldn't find anything. Take some measurements and compare. Not just for the manifold but for the plumbing as well. If the plumping doesn't match up I guess you could fab your own.
 

Barrman

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There are standard turbo flanges. A #3 and a #4 in this case. I forget which is which, but the Banks and GM are not the same number.

However, the hot set up for the Banks Chevy kit is to put a Bank Ford kit turbo on it. That one has a waste gate and pushes more boost off idle. But, really has no advantage once above 40 mph.
 

richingalveston

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one other note, if you get the ORD high clearance cross member and ORD motor mounts then the cross over tube fits between the oil pan and motor mount and will then go in front of the axle under the balancer to the passenger side. makes for a very clean install and keeps it out of the way of everything else.
 
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