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6.2 Cam Replacement

dtdoyle01

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Has anyone tried to replace the cam without pulling the heads. After I pulled the rods I noticed I can use a magnet to pull the lifters out about a half inch. I thought about using 16 magnets to pull up the lifters all at once, and slide the cam out and the new one in. Any thoughts?
 

cucvrus

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I would not see a problem with pulling all the lifters keeping them in order and putting a new cam in. That is provided the cam bearings are in great shape. That is a chance you will have to take. What is the problem with the current cam?
 

dtdoyle01

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The magnets will only pull them up about a half inch each, they won't come out all the way. I wanted to know if a half inch on each side will be far enough to swap the cams. The vehicle has only 8200 miles on it. I had two bolts back out of the water pump plate. one sheered off when it cam on contact with IP sprocket the other bent. It caused the IP shaft to break in two and the bolt must of got caught up in the timing gears which caused the key on the cam to sheer off. Good times all around.
 

cucvrus

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I would probably start from scratch and go right at the engine and check everything. And I mean check have it checked or in question replace it. Messing gears have a lot of force and can bend and break things the naked eye cannot see. Everything has a breaking point and who knows what else has almost reached that point. That's just me. Better safe than sorry all around. Do doubt it bent the can shaft. Can you get the key out of the cam? Good luck. Report back. I have a few low mileage core motors without heads. I never just changed a cam shaft. I had it line bored before I done that and the shop put the cam in for me. Happy Holidays. If I could help more I would.
 

dtdoyle01

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The vehicle only has 8200 miles on it, and i'm putting a used cam in it. I however purchased all new sprockets, gears and timing chain, waterpump, and I have a new IP.
 

Tinstar

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The mileage means nothing.
Unless you want to do it all over again down the road, I would pull engine, at least heads, and do it right.
Especially since you have already had bolts backing out.
Next failure might be at the worst possible moment.

Yes it's a PITA and not cheap or fast, but the piece of mind it will give you will be priceless.
 

Drock

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Eatonton GA
Tinstar,

Thanks for the advise, I am going to pull the heads, and I was given new lifters from a local MV guy
Don't worry, you needed to do the head gaskets anyway. These are 30 + year old trucks, the head gaskets are crusty and would probably fail anyway.
 

cucvrus

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021.jpg022.jpg023.jpgAcidic anti-freeze does have a tendency to eat its way thru thin steel gaskets and brass radiators. I have been using the Dex-Cool in everything since GM came out with it. It seems to be easier on metals. Happy Holidays. rs_500x326-141217151556-TheGrinchCartoonhappy grinch.gif
 
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