6.2 Lift Pump Pushrod Seized

[CARC686]

Replacing lift pump. Stopped before removing the rear fastener because the pushrod was sprung against the diaphragm in the old pump and I didn't want the pressure to damage the threads. Rotated the crank pulley one half revolution. Removed pump. Pushrod is now seized against the engine block below the port for the pump actuating lever. I rotated the engine one half counter-revolution and the pushrod still will not budge. Is it possible I bent it when I turned the crank? I had assumed hard part interference would stop me turning the crank by hand. I am concerned that a wrong move at this point could break my block. Please advise. Thank you.

 

[nyoffroad]

I've never seen one seized up, not saying it can't happen. What I have experienced is that the damn thing is so smooth and slippery it's real tough to push back up in there. Been awhile since I changed one but I ground the teeth off a hacksaw blade and would slip that into place holding the push rod up while removing the old pump, then lift that and slip the new one in.
That push rod goes up and down EVERY time the cam turns so it gets polished up real well.

 

[cucvrus]

Did you remove the cover plate that is attached to the block by 2 M6 hex head bolts. The bolts have 10mm heads and once the cover plate is removed you just apply some wheel bearing grease onto the push rod and stuff it back up in there. that will hold it up in place till you are able to get the cover plate and fuel pump in place. Only tighten all the bolts finger tight till you have them started. I change these fuel pumps from the top side. Disconnect the batteries and unbolt and roll Generator 2 into the engine compartment with the wire hooked up. Makes it much easier. I only go down last to hand tighten the 2 M6 bolts on the cover plate. Good Luck.

 

[CARC686]

Did you remove the cover plate that is attached to the block by 2 M6 hex head bolts. The bolts have 10mm heads and once the cover plate is removed you just apply some wheel bearing grease onto the push rod and stuff it back up in there. that will hold it up in place till you are able to get the cover plate and fuel pump in place. Only tighten all the bolts finger tight till you have them started. I change these fuel pumps from the top side. Disconnect the batteries and unbolt and roll Generator 2 into the engine compartment with the wire hooked up. Makes it much easier. I only go down last to hand tighten the 2 M6 bolts on the cover plate. Good Luck.

I drove this truck 600 miles before I noticed the pump was leaking, so as you can imagine, it is a mess. I did see the fasteners, but I thought the plate was part of the block casting due to all the grime. I will remove it tomorrow and see what I can see. The fact that it is removable is great news. Out of curiosity, what do you use to remove the rear fastener on the pump? My tools are lacking, so I spent longer on it than I would have liked.

 

[CARC686]

I've never seen one seized up, not saying it can't happen. What I have experienced is that the damn thing is so smooth and slippery it's real tough to push back up in there. Been awhile since I changed one but I ground the teeth off a hacksaw blade and would slip that into place holding the push rod up while removing the old pump, then lift that and slip the new one in.
That push rod goes up and down EVERY time the cam turns so it gets polished up real well.

I was reading other forums and saw that in gassers, the rod can get gummed up with carbon, so I suspected that may be the case, but per cucvrus, I can remove the plate over it after which it should be easily removeable and I will know for certain. It will be funny if you are correct and I just couldn't get a grip on it because it was too slick.

 

[cucvrus]

The 2 bolts holding the pump thru the cover plate to the block are 7/16" hex head bolts. An 11mm socket works also. I prefer a 6-point socket. Good Luck.

 

[WWRD99]

I was reading other forums and saw that in gassers, the rod can get gummed up with carbon, so I suspected that may be the case, but per cucvrus, I can remove the plate over it after which it should be easily removeable and I will know for certain. It will be funny if you are correct and I just couldn't get a grip on it because it was too slick.

once you get the push rod out clean it then cover it with grease so when you pop it back in it will stay. You can get a new gasket for the fuel pump cover or use a quality sealer. As far as getting it back on I use a quarter inch drive swivel head with a short extension...it makes it extremely easier if you have 2 people to install the actual pump...one on top to put the 2 bolts in the pump and one under to hold the pump in place...once you get the bolts started in the pump install a few threads on the steel fuel line then tighten the fuel pump bolts. My son and I have these down to about 20 minutes tops but it takes 2 of us with me holding the pump and him putting the bolts in.

 

[CARC686]

Much appreciated, folks. I did have to apply about 40 LBS of twisting torque to the plate to dislodge it from the engine, but it retained its flatness. The pushrod fell out in my hand. I polished both to a mirror sheen before reassembly with Permatex aircraft sealant. I retained the pushrod's position in the engine with a dollop of margarine. I use vegetable oil as assembly lube lately as well. It's what I've got. "If it's stupid and it works, it ain't stupid." No fuel system bleeding whatsoever. Just cranked it with an intention of revving it up until the injectors stopped clicking, but it started instantly and ran perfectly.

 

[WWRD99]

That's great news! Glad you got it back together...for butter or worse right! Whatever works..

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[CARC686]

That's great news! Glad you got it back together...for butter or worse right! Whatever works..

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[WWRD99]

I use cooking oil for fuel...why not!

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