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6.2 Turbo with 6.5 Parts - Build and Questions Thread

79Vette

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The driver side is kind of a disaster, with an ac compressor and 2 air compressors. Not much space over there.

The batteries need to be on the passenger side, or back under the bed floor/in the cab probably
 

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79Vette

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Do like Mercedes and put the batteries in a box somewhere behind the rear seat. Take advantage of your 24V and save a bunch on money on battery cables because you can run a smaller gauge than 12V.
Plus the M1009 already has huge 24v cables going to the distribution panel by the bench seat, so it would only require adding a single 12v wire.

This is what I'm planning if I can't fit them under the hood, but was just wondering if anyone has done it already
 

79Vette

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Ok, a short update with a couple more questions and photos

With the short injectors installed and a tiny bit of bending on the starter heatshield, the turbo manifold seems to install without any interference. I don't have the injector hard lines on yet but I think they will clear no problem. I am having a problem with the #6 injector however. It is installed torqued to 50 ft lbs, and the return lines are oriented vertically. There is no way to keep the bottom line off the manifold in this configuration. I don't think I can over-torque it enough to get a quarter turn, and that seems like the wrong solution even if it would work. I assume double stacking the copper injector washers is also not acceptable. I have a bag of washers and I will try to reinstall the injector with a few different ones tomorrow, but I am open to any suggestions

PXL_20240410_045006268.jpg

PXL_20240410_045035931.jpg

What is the consensus on exhaust manifold gaskets? There were no gaskets on my existing manifolds, but I am not sure about putting them back like that. Is it better to clean up the manifold and head and hope for the best or do you suggest installing a gasket? If the head and manifold were machined flat I would run them with no gasket, but I really don't want to tear this apart after the first start up to chase a leak...

For the turbo oil feed, I ordered a 36" -4 AN line and NPT to -4 AN fittings to install in the turbo and at the back of the block on the driver side, and a 1/4 NPT tee to split off the existing oil pressure sensor. I also got an oil restrictor, but I haven't found any definitive information on if it is needed or not. I'd love to hear if anyone on here is running a restrictor or if you've been fine without one.

I've been waiting for over 2 weeks for Badger Diesel to start on my injector pump, and I'll be pretty frustrated if that is the thing I end up waiting for to wrap this project up. Hopefully they get it shipped out in the next few days...

I'm feeling optimistic about getting the Group 31 batteries to fit on the passenger side now I am starting to get parts fit up and see how everything goes together. Making the new tray will be one of the last things I do, but I think I can get it to work by moving my black relay box toward the rear, turning the front battery 90 degrees and putting the other one parallel to it.
PXL_20240410_044750948.jpg
 
Last edited:

adf5565

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Ok, a short update with a couple more questions and photos

With the short injectors installed and a tiny bit of bending on the starter heatshield, the turbo manifold seems to install without any interference. I don't have the injector hard lines on yet but I think they will clear no problem. I am having a problem with the #6 injector however. It is installed torqued to 50 ft lbs, and the return lines are oriented vertically. There is no way to keep the bottom line off the manifold in this configuration. I don't think I can over-torque it enough to get a quarter turn, and that seems like the wrong solution even if it would work. I assume double stacking the copper injector washers is also not acceptable. I have a bag of washers and I will try to reinstall the injector with a few different ones tomorrow, but I am open to any suggestions

View attachment 920919

View attachment 920920

What is the consensus on exhaust manifold gaskets? There were no gaskets on my existing manifolds, but I am not sure about putting them back like that. Is it better to clean up the manifold and head and hope for the best or do you suggest installing a gasket? If the head and manifold were machined flat I would run them with no gasket, but I really don't want to tear this apart after the first start up to chase a leak...

For the turbo oil feed, I ordered a 36" -4 AN line and NPT to -4 AN fittings to install in the turbo and at the back of the block on the driver side, and a 1/4 NPT tee to split off the existing oil pressure sensor. I also got an oil restrictor, but I haven't found any definitive information on if it is needed or not. I'd love to hear if anyone on here is running a restrictor or if you've been fine without one.

I've been waiting for over 2 weeks for Badger Diesel to start on my injector pump, and I'll be pretty frustrated if that is the thing I end up waiting for to wrap this project up. Hopefully they get it shipped out in the next few days...

I'm feeling optimistic about getting the Group 31 batteries to fit on the passenger side now I am starting to get parts fit up and see how everything goes together. Making the new tray will be one of the last things I do, but I think I can get it to work by moving my black relay box toward the rear, turning the front battery 90 degrees and putting the other one parallel to it.
View attachment 920918
Granted I have a 6.5 so my injectors are at a different angle, but I picked up a 6.5 manifold heat shield which keeps everything tucked against the valve cover and away from the manifold. I got it off ebay. You could also try swapping injectors 6 and 8 (or any others for that matter) and see if they thread differently. Maybe you'll get lucky and it'll turn another 90 degrees and have more clearance for the return lines.


The way i understand it manifold gaskets aren't needed, however I used them anyways and don't have any issues with leakage.

I would also recommend using a restrictor unless you've upgraded the oil pump to the 6.5 high flow version. I have an aftermarket turbo from Quadstar so my setup is different, but the turbo came with a restrictor fitting. You don't want to take too much oil from the rest of the motor for the turbo. You could try both ways if needed and check oil pressure at your t-fitting to see what matches spec the most.

12.jpg
 
Last edited:

87cr250r

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The 97+ 6.5 engines had piston cooling jets which is why they required the higher volume pump. I can't say this with confidence but I believe the 93-96 engines had the same pumps as the 6.2 and had turbos too .
 

79Vette

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I got the 6.5 heat shield, will try to fit that up this weekend. I think that will help a lot.

The latest issue is apparently the SM465 slave cylinder interferes with the driver side exhaust manifold. Has anyone ever had a manual in one of these trucks with a 6.5 turbo? If so what did you do for a slave cylinder? I could pull the trans and go to a hydraulic throw out bearing, but thats another day or 2 of working under the truck I really really don't want to do that... I think I'd make a new crossover and run the 6.2 driver side manifold first...
 

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