6.2 with turbo build in progress

[jdemaris]

, in the 7 or 8 of them I've owned, I've had great luck and had none of these problems. .

I've have owned many over the years, probably well over 30.

I have not had a single major failure except one. That in the 87 Suburban. The former and original owner had it "condemned"by the local Chevy dealer at 200K. It had a bad engine knock, and none of the heating-cooling controls in the dash worked. Dealer said the engine was blown, dash controls all bad, etc. So, I bought it for $500.

Put new injector nozzles into it, along with a water pump and a vacuum pump pod -and it ran like new. This was J-code, 3/4 ton 4WD. TH400 trans and 3.73 axles. So, going down the highway, it was screaming at 75 MPH.

I maintained it well over the years and just about every moving part on that truck wore out at least once. Even the spilnes on the rear axles. But that engine ran like a clock.

One day, when it had just turned 520K miles - going down the highway - it seized with no warning whatsoever. Wasn't hot, wasn't working hard, had great oil pressue, ran smooth, etc. No warnming signs at all. Just instant siezure at 75 MPH. I was 120 miles from home.

When I finaly got it home on a flatbad, and got it torn apart - I found the crankshaft in three pieces and two main bearing webs completely pulled out of the block. I assume the block main-webs had been cracked for years - and finally let go. When they did, and the crank lots support, it snapped into pieces. That's my guess, I'll never know for sure.

So, yeah, 520,000 miles sounds fantastic, but I'm still ticked off over it. Engines should die slow deaths when not abused. Not go like this. I'd be happier if it only got 200K and starting eating oil, knocking a little, starting hard, etc. That way I'd be forewarned.

So, now all the 6.2s make me nervous. Any that I plan to use for any serious miles get the pans pulled and checked for cracks. If no cracks, I assume I'm goot for at least another 100K.

I just pulled my 86 K5 turbo-6.2 mini-motorhome apart today. 140K . I've got the trans and front axle out for some changes anyway. To my pleasant surprise, no cracks. Also reached up and checked the timing chain and it's got 9/16" side-slop which is within factory tolerances. But, I found 1/2 the rear-main seal missing and I'm having a miserable time finding a way to fish it out- so I can fix it. It's the old rope seal.

Last summer we were on a trip, and all of a sudden this Blazer started pouring engine oil on the road. A huge leak. Almost a quart per mile. Ends up, the oil filler cap had fallen off, and stopped the CDR valve from working. I got a ride to a NAPA, got a new cap - along with new Rotella T oil - and it didn't leak a drop after that. But, seems it somehow blew out half the seal.

So, now I'm ticked off at GM again - which is silly. Many older engines had rope-seals. I don't recall ever having to change one before though, with the crankshaft in place.

 

[67_C-30]

I've have owned many over the years, probably well over 30.

I have not had a single major failure except one. That in the 87 Suburban. The former and original owner had it "condemned"by the local Chevy dealer at 200K. It had a bad engine knock, and none of the heating-cooling controls in the dash worked. Dealer said the engine was blown, dash controls all bad, etc. So, I bought it for $500.

Put new injector nozzles into it, along with a water pump and a vacuum pump pod -and it ran like new. This was J-code, 3/4 ton 4WD. TH400 trans and 3.73 axles. So, going down the highway, it was screaming at 75 MPH.

I maintained it well over the years and just about every moving part on that truck wore out at least once. Even the spilnes on the rear axles. But that engine ran like a clock.

One day, when it had just turned 520K miles - going down the highway - it seized with no warning whatsoever. Wasn't hot, wasn't working hard, had great oil pressue, ran smooth, etc. No warnming signs at all. Just instant siezure at 75 MPH. I was 120 miles from home.

When I finaly got it home on a flatbad, and got it torn apart - I found the crankshaft in three pieces and two main bearing webs completely pulled out of the block. I assume the block main-webs had been cracked for years - and finally let go. When they did, and the crank lots support, it snapped into pieces. That's my guess, I'll never know for sure.

So, yeah, 520,000 miles sounds fantastic, but I'm still ticked off over it. Engines should die slow deaths when not abused. Not go like this. I'd be happier if it only got 200K and starting eating oil, knocking a little, starting hard, etc. That way I'd be forewarned.

So, now all the 6.2s make me nervous. Any that I plan to use for any serious miles get the pans pulled and checked for cracks. If no cracks, I assume I'm goot for at least another 100K.

I just pulled my 86 K5 turbo-6.2 mini-motorhome apart today. 140K . I've got the trans and front axle out for some changes anyway. To my pleasant surprise, no cracks. Also reached up and checked the timing chain and it's got 9/16" side-slop which is within factory tolerances. But, I found 1/2 the rear-main seal missing and I'm having a miserable time finding a way to fish it out- so I can fix it. It's the old rope seal.

Last summer we were on a trip, and all of a sudden this Blazer started pouring engine oil on the road. A huge leak. Almost a quart per mile. Ends up, the oil filler cap had fallen off, and stopped the CDR valve from working. I got a ride to a NAPA, got a new cap - along with new Rotella T oil - and it didn't leak a drop after that. But, seems it somehow blew out half the seal.

So, now I'm ticked off at GM again - which is silly. Many older engines had rope-seals. I don't recall ever having to change one before though, with the crankshaft in place.

Ah yes, those lovely rope seals. SBC's have all spoiled. I am big time Pontiac nut, and I have always cussed those rope seals.

On that 520K engine that blew apart, I'd suspect its probably like I have thought a lot of them were - I bet that it had main cracks for a long time and finally just came apart. I get what you are saying about expecting engines to die a slow death, and I agree, but I've always considered anything over 300K a bonus (with most any engine). It does suck to lose "trust" in an engine, because you may not do or go somewhere you would if didn't have that lingering fear it might not make it back! I'm going to drive my 6.2 with the Banks on my M1009 for awhile, and right now I trust it, but how it may have been treated in military does linger in back of mind a little bit. I'm slowly collecting parts for the Navistar 6.5 engine, and I'm going with a Scat cast steel crank in it with a girdle and 18 : 1 pistons, and I should be good for a long time when I put it in later on.

 

[rustyolred]

i am also running electronic fans for cooling.

Do you have any pics/info on your electric fans?

 

[Dave87]

Ok I know this might not be the right place but it seems that all the pros are here so forgive me but I have a couple questions. What's the purpose of the cdr? If I run without it is that bad?
here's the story I put a Turbo on my truck and took it for its first drive come back and oil is coming out of the rear main. I had the breather open so I didn't think it would cause a problem. Now the second question I put a GM 3 Turbo 6.5 injection pump off a Turbo motor and injectors. I did that so I didn't have to tune it. Now at five pounds of boost the egts are at 1000 to 1100. With the waste gate locked closed it hits 14 psi and egts are around 800. What would be a good course of action? I would like this truck to run for awhile so I'm at the mercy of the pros. Thanks ahead of time.

 

[bubba_got_you]

Do you have any pics/info on your electric fans?

[FONT=&quot]Not really but what do you want to know? [/FONT]

 

[bubba_got_you]

Ok I know this might not be the right place but it seems that all the pros are here so forgive me but I have a couple questions. What's the purpose of the cdr? If I run without it is that bad?
here's the story I put a Turbo on my truck and took it for its first drive come back and oil is coming out of the rear main. I had the breather open so I didn't think it would cause a problem. Now the second question I put a GM 3 Turbo 6.5 injection pump off a Turbo motor and injectors. I did that so I didn't have to tune it. Now at five pounds of boost the egts are at 1000 to 1100. With the waste gate locked closed it hits 14 psi and egts are around 800. What would be a good course of action? I would like this truck to run for awhile so I'm at the mercy of the pros. Thanks ahead of time.

[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]The cdr is the crankcase depression regulator (CDR) canister and is for positive crankcase ventilation. Is yours before or after turbo? If it is after turbo (stock position) you will be adding presser to your crankcase and thus blowing oil out the mane. And on the 6.5 injectors I cannot help you (I have no experience with the 6.5 system) but im shore someone here can. [/FONT]

 

[Dave87]

The CDR isn't on there at all.

 

[bubba_got_you]

The CDR isn't on there at all.

then why did you ask?

 

[rustyolred]

[FONT=&quot]Not really but what do you want to know? [/FONT]

What fan/fans did you use?

 

[Dave87]

Jdemaris said he was on a trip and the oil cap fell off causing the CDR valve not to work so I wasn't sure if that was important to the correct running order of the truck

 

[Gunfreak25]

Any updates on this project?

 

[francisf16]

Speaking of gasser hot rod mods got me thinking about a couple. I'm curious if any of this would help;
1. 6.5 ip and injectors
2. Underdrive pulleys
3. Headers
4. changing the theromostat
I have no diesel experience, yet. But have other hot rod experiences that these bolt ons would produce good horsepower gains.
You diesel gurus please tell me what you think.

 

[francisf16]

Speaking of gasser hot rod mods got me thinking about a couple. I'm curious if any of this would help;
1. 6.5 ip and injectors
2. Underdrive pulleys
3. Headers
4. changing the theromostat
I have no diesel experience, yet. But have other hot rod experiences that these bolt ons would produce good horsepower gains.
You diesel gurus please tell me what you think.

 

[67_C-30]

Just changing injectors will yield a very minimum gain. You will see much more difference by advancing the injection 2 or 3 degrees, and turning up the fuel a little (1/16 - 1/8th turn on the fuel screw). Adding headers, free flowing mufflers, and a K&N will help some too, but those mods will also help more if the IP is turned up and advanced. The IP is basically the equivalent to the carburetor and ignition system on a gasser. I would not recommend underdrive pulleys as indirect diesels tend to run on the warm side as it is. Slowing down the water pump with underdrive pulleys would almost surely cause cooling issues in the summer. Changing the T-stat to a cooler temp will not make additional power.

With all that being said, nothing you can do to a diesel will add as much power as you will get with a turbo.

Naturally aspirated 6.2's do sound really good with good mufflers though!

RudyvdSluis's Channel - YouTube


RudyvdSluis's Channel - YouTube

 

[francisf16]

Thanks, I wondered if the 6.5l injector pumps timing or fuel metering would be different and might give more power. I've got turbo muffler and a k&n on mine and picked up some cool black exhaust tips off summit racing, sounds great! Just needs more thrust!!

 

[67_C-30]

Thanks, I wondered if the 6.5l injector pumps timing or fuel metering would be different and might give more power. I've got turbo muffler and a k&n on mine and picked up some cool black exhaust tips off summit racing, sounds great! Just needs more thrust!!

Yes the 6.5 IP will add power, but you cannot put a 6.5 turbo IP on there without a turbo because it will add too much fuel aand will result in lots of black smoke, overheating, etc. They will eventually fry the pistons if you continue to run them like that. A diesel running too rich without a turbo has the effect of a gasser running too lean. The current IP will provide plenty of fuel if turned up, even with a turbo. Here's a tutorial on turning up the fuel on a 6.2. The guy that did the video is a young cat, but he's a moderator at thedieselplace, and his video is suffice. You would only want to go 1/16 - 1/8ths turn with a N/A 6.2L. You can go 1/4 - 5/16ths turn with a turbo.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hnoct-21vNY[/media]

 

[francisf16]

You da man! Thanks

 

[jdeoliveira74]

There is a reason I asked what numbers were you looking for.

YOU DO NOT NEED TO ADD THE TURBO.

It's a very expensive option that adds some where around 65/75 ponies and about 150 ft/lb torques...

Skip the turbo.

Upgrade the injector tips.

Use the 6.2L MARINE TIPS. The cost is like $62 on ebay.

I believe Westech posted this several weeks ago.

Replace the low pressure fuel return lines (another $25). Then adjust the timing.

You COULD see as much as 100 hp over and above where you are now. Plus the bump in torque as well.

All for $100.

THAT'S why I asked what numbers you were shooting for.

I installed the 6.5 marine injectors... it is definately more peppy. kinda curious about timing if it needed to be advanced or retarded?? It was definately not even the 40hp they claims state.. More like 5 if I was lucky. but my injectors were bad so it had to be done anyway

 

[Tanner]

Bubba! They are talking about you and this is good information.

... good information, EXCEPT for the miracle 6.2 '100 Horsepower increase with Marine injectors and injection pump'... I'm still waiting for the dyno proof on this setup... well??

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g04aCp3ej-I

I wish these freakin' myths would die - if adding HP this way worked, GM/Detroit Diesel wouldn't have added displacement & a turbo...

'Tanner'

 

[moose1008]

ok. i know this info is on this site some where but i am having a hard time finding it.. can anyone tell what years of the 6.5 turbo set up can be used on our 6.2's?