6.2L J code initial inspection

[Mg84648]

Hey guys, I have two J code 6.2s available to me as a replacement spare for my m1009. This will be a winter garage rebuild project.
They may or may not be runners and are removed from their vehicles. The question is, on initial inspection of the motors at pick up, what are the top 5 items which need to be or CAN be looked at to determine which engine to purchase. The obvious one I can think of is the inclusion of the IP and lack dents and external damage, corrosion.
I understand its a broad question just looking for some guidance from the experienced CUCV crowd.

 

[cucvrus]

That is a hard nut to crack. Being that you have no idea what or where they came from. They could have been overheated run out of oil. That is the negative part. Next they could be ready to install and filled with fluid and turned over and started. it is a pig in a poke from what you are telling us. Are they CUCV or HMMWV?

 

[Mg84648]

The seller says they originate from "military K30" pick up trucks with unknown miles.

 

[Warthog]

I have purchased engines that have looked brand new and had zero compression and others that looked rough and ran great.

One area to look at is the oil pan. Look for holes or outward dents. That says a connecting rod has went on a journey by itself.

Something else to do is spin the engine over by hand (socket on crankshaft).

If I was paying top dollar then I would want to hear it run first. Otherwise only pay what you are willing to loose.

 

[Skinny]

I'd invest in or borrow a bore scope tool. You can get them pretty cheap now. I believe I saw one at the Homo for about $100. Pull the GPs and send it down!

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I'll state the obvious - check the oil. Color, smell, texture.

Wiggle a finger into any cooling system openings, too, to get some idea of that system's condition.

 

[cucvrus]

I'd invest in or borrow a bore scope tool. You can get them pretty cheap now. I believe I saw one at the Homo for about $100. Pull the GPs and send it down!

This is just a question. If you did go thru the glow plug hole could you get past the pre chambers to see further? Question only. I am asking to learn. I don't recall that that is an open entrance to the combustion chamber like a spark plug on a gas motor. I would think you would have very limited if any view. Question only.

 

[fitz]

Check the starter bolt holes.
If there is a starter on it, is the bracket there?

 

[Skinny]

This is just a question. If you did go thru the glow plug hole could you get past the pre chambers to see further? Question only. I am asking to learn. I don't recall that that is an open entrance to the combustion chamber like a spark plug on a gas motor. I would think you would have very limited if any view. Question only.

Not sure, that was more of just a general guideline. You may not see much going into the pre-combustion chamber. Worst case the injectors would have to come out to get a better look. I don't know what the diameter is going into the combustion chamber. A cheapo bore scope may be too big. I think if it didn't fit that you could always turn the engine over by hand to get the intake or exhaust valve to open up and get a look inside that way if the exhaust is off or snaking it down the intake. Could turn into quite a procedure but I think if you see crosshatch on the cylinder walls consistently all the way around that you have something worth keeping.

 

[richingalveston]

If you have that much time to inspect, take a socket with you and just pull the glow plugs, wont take more than 15 minutes if none of them are swollen or broken off in the motor.
You will at a minimum know if there is a stuck glow plug.
If the motor is not on a good stand, you probably wont be able to turn it over by hand with all of the glow plus installed. Remove all, Install one plug at a time and turn it to feel the compression. All cylinders should feel the same. Just make sure to keep the dirt out of the other open cylinders.
If it is in a truck or a stand where the starter can be spun then compression test it. You can do a compression test in less than 30 minutes.

As long as it has good compression on all cylinders, It should be a good candidate for a rebuild and most likely will run with minimal work.