6.5 TD Install Q's

[erasedhammer]

I'm starting this thread so I can get a lot of answers for my numerous questions now and ones that will pop up as I go through the swap.

I am currently in the process of getting a GEP 6.5 TD, it runs, but other than that I don't have info on it, yet. I have acquired the Doghouse recently.
What I currently have: 6.2 mated with 4l80e and 242. I have the 6.5 eng harness and a2 body harness already.

My Q's:

1. Anyone have a generic list of what is needed to throw a turbo in place of a 6.2?

2. What sort of body modification needs to be done (and where) to make the turbo doghouse fit?

3. Do I need a body lift to snug the engine in, or can I get away with not?

4. In the case where the engine I'm getting doesn't have the accessories (alt, power steering, fan, serpentine, ect.), anyone have a list of what can be reused from the 6.2? I imagine since I already have my 200 amp alt, if I get an engine without an alt I can change it over and have no issues.

5. I'm looking to replace the doghouse insulation, anyone know where I can get some? I want to get the reflective one, not the black rubber insulation I see on ebay.
Where does one get what looks like rivets that hold the insulation on? They appear to have a pop rivet head on them, how exactly are they installed?

6. Can I used my old radiator stack with the turbo engine? Any hose issues there?

7. What's a good source for a rubber intake tube, most likely my engine won't have one hanging off it. Can part of the rubber na intake be reused (like the 1st section coming off the filter?).

8. Saw Augis post about his conversion with the new engine and 4l80, he highly recommended the engine hoist bar, any source on that? ebay?

9. For the swap itself, I'll take the hood and radiator stack off of course. I have a friend with an engine hoist. Whats the easiest way to go about taking the engine out? Strip it then remove it? Just take the whole thing out all together? I'm trying to take the most efficient route here, not the necessarily the easiest. Obviously I'll be leaving the transmission in, since I already got the 4l80.

10. I'll probably be going over and through the engine when I get it. Anyone have suggestions on what I should check at the minimum?

11. For those who have done the 6.2 - 6.5td swap, any tips and tricks I should be aware of ?

I'll probably post my own reply to the thread if I ever have more questions (mostly likely I will)

Thanks

 

[Action]

Do you have a 6.5 turbo harness or a 6.5 NA harness?
Prop the front of the transmission up before you pull the motor from it.
Once the motor is out, set the new doghouse in place. draw a line next to the engine side on top of the tunnel (from the engine compartment). That is about where the factory cutout is.
I think the same rubber intake tube can be used. The plastic air horn is what changes.
With a 2 ton hoist, I had to extend it out to the 1/2 ton mark to reach in far enough.
I would remove the alternator before pulling the motor out. You can use the hoist for that.
For easy hood removal, just take out the cotter pins and pull the hinges out.
Your new body harness setup may not need a hood harness. It may need 2 more harnesses for the hood lights (ECV). Look for 2 green metal plugs at the front.

 

[erasedhammer]

I have a 6.5NA harness, put it in to support my 4l80.

ECV hood? Are you saying I need the ecv radiator stack and the extended hose? I'm confused as to what you are getting at there.

 

[Action]

No hood. I mean the a2 body harness may have connections to hook 2 small harnesses to for the front lights. Do you have the part number from your a2 harness?

Your turbo motor may have the correct engine harness with it?

 

[erasedhammer]

No hood. I mean the a2 body harness may have connections to hook 2 small harnesses to for the front lights. Do you have the part number from your a2 harness?

It has one large connector for the hood. Its already installed.

 

[Action]

ah, ok.

 

[86humv]

You need serpentine belt system....leave the V belt system on that old 6.2
Standard A2 body harness uses same headlight harness.
A2 Ecv harness park and B.O .lights take the 2 small harnesses Action was talking about.
You need a turbo eng. harness...6.5 NA type won't work.

 

[erasedhammer]

You need serpentine belt system....leave the V belt system on that old 6.2
Standard A2 body harness uses same headlight harness.
A2 Ecv harness park and B.O .lights take the 2 small harnesses Action was talking about.
You need a turbo eng. harness...6.5 NA type won't work.

Roger.

Im guessing I need the turbo harness because it's longer/routes differently? Or does it have extra connectors?

 

[ken]

He is right. The water pump on the 6.2 vbelt is a lower GPM. About 90. The serpentine is 130GPM. It will overheat.

 

[Action]

He is right. The water pump on the 6.2 vbelt is a lower GPM. About 90. The serpentine is 130GPM. It will overheat.

They turn in different directions, too.

 

[Action]

I should have the accessories from a turbo available soon.

 

[erasedhammer]

I should have the accessories from a turbo available soon.

When I get my engine, I'll probably be in contact with you for parts then!

 

[ClarkeF]

1 - engine, serpentine belt and related accessories (cooling pump and fan are different vs the 6.2), exhaust downpipe from turbo, 6.5TD engine harness, exhaust modification to match downpipe, 1/2" body lift for a-beam/turbo intake clearance (some people get away without, but you will never get that intake off in the truck without the lift), two trim panels for header to turbo clearance as you need to widen the engine opening, turbo doghouse - or make your own lip and rivet in place.

2 - as posted the easy way is once you have removed the engine, to take a sharpie and follow the inside of the turbo doghouse when snugged and secured into position. Trim and Fab your own lip or get the two factory turbo trim pieces. Turbo dog house will fit fine, it's the back of the engine that needs clearance.

3 - yes. And no. You have a high likelihood of having the turbo intake manifold (really turbo output to intake manifold)(depending on the design - there are three I've seen) either rubbing against or sitting just under the A-beam closeout panel. Some people have managed to fit without the body lift. The factory has a 1/2" lift in the turbo trucks. As said above, you will not have clearance to remove the turbo intake without a lift (and even then you sometimes need to drop the transsupport and tilt the engine down to get needed clearance).

4 - if you don't get the serpentine accessories with the engine, nothing but the 200A alternator and maybe the 200A mount and support can be used with the 6.5TD. You will want the TD / serpentine 130 GPM pump to move more coolant. The pump rotates in the opposite direction to the non-serpentine setup. Different fan. Different idlers. Different PS pump and mount...

5 - Insulation is available separately along with rivets and washers for securing it for the civilian trucks. The insulation and parts are indeed pop-riveted in place with washers to hold the squishy bits from pulling through the rivets. I've not seen the TD HMMWV parts listed out in the TM's probably because your tax dollars at work - they replace the whole cover if needed.

6 - yes. Slight hose modifications may be needed. Make sure your radiator is in great shape and flows perfectly. The 6.5TD generates lots of heat and can overheat the NA stock radiator size (also similar size used in the H1 with the 6.5TD and that also can keep the engine cool at speed and load).

7 - eBay. First second coming off air cleaner - can be used. Second section is turbo specific.

8 - not needed if you are just pulling the engine. Some chain and bolts are fine. A couple cargo straps make for fine adjustment of angles. The device Augi refers to is extra handy when you are trying to pull the entire driveline or engine and tranny and need to balance / extract the entire length.

9 - pull hood, pull stack (send radiator out for eval), disconnect engine harness, fuel lines, PS lines and returns, vent lines, intake hoses, battery cable, starter wires, transmission from flex plate and pull out entire. Maybe pull the 200A alternator if you have it to get better access to the drivers head bolt holes.

10 - check engine compression to make sure you are good, check glow plugs for resistance / swelling - add antiseize to GP threads now while you can easily get to them out of the truck, if it comes with wiring harness check for chaffing, ensure all fuel lines and intakes are clear of debris if the engine isn't sealed up. If there is oil in the pan, do an oil analysis.

 

[erasedhammer]

1 - engine, serpentine belt and related accessories (cooling pump and fan are different vs the 6.2), exhaust downpipe from turbo, 6.5TD engine harness, exhaust modification to match downpipe, 1/2" body lift for a-beam/turbo intake clearance (some people get away without, but you will never get that intake off in the truck without the lift), two trim panels for header to turbo clearance as you need to widen the engine opening, turbo doghouse - or make your own lip and rivet in place.

2 - as posted the easy way is once you have removed the engine, to take a sharpie and follow the inside of the turbo doghouse when snugged and secured into position. Trim and Fab your own lip or get the two factory turbo trim pieces. Turbo dog house will fit fine, it's the back of the engine that needs clearance.

3 - yes. And no. You have a high likelihood of having the turbo intake manifold (really turbo output to intake manifold)(depending on the design - there are three I've seen) either rubbing against or sitting just under the A-beam closeout panel. Some people have managed to fit without the body lift. The factory has a 1/2" lift in the turbo trucks. As said above, you will not have clearance to remove the turbo intake without a lift (and even then you sometimes need to drop the transsupport and tilt the engine down to get needed clearance).

4 - if you don't get the serpentine accessories with the engine, nothing but the 200A alternator and maybe the 200A mount and support can be used with the 6.5TD. You will want the TD / serpentine 130 GPM pump to move more coolant. The pump rotates in the opposite direction to the non-serpentine setup. Different fan. Different idlers. Different PS pump and mount...

5 - Insulation is available separately along with rivets and washers for securing it for the civilian trucks. The insulation and parts are indeed pop-riveted in place with washers to hold the squishy bits from pulling through the rivets. I've not seen the TD HMMWV parts listed out in the TM's probably because your tax dollars at work - they replace the whole cover if needed.

6 - yes. Slight hose modifications may be needed. Make sure your radiator is in great shape and flows perfectly. The 6.5TD generates lots of heat and can overheat the NA stock radiator size (also similar size used in the H1 with the 6.5TD and that also can keep the engine cool at speed and load).

7 - eBay. First second coming off air cleaner - can be used. Second section is turbo specific.

8 - not needed if you are just pulling the engine. Some chain and bolts are fine. A couple cargo straps make for fine adjustment of angles. The device Augi refers to is extra handy when you are trying to pull the entire driveline or engine and tranny and need to balance / extract the entire length.

9 - pull hood, pull stack (send radiator out for eval), disconnect engine harness, fuel lines, PS lines and returns, vent lines, intake hoses, battery cable, starter wires, transmission from flex plate and pull out entire. Maybe pull the 200A alternator if you have it to get better access to the drivers head bolt holes.

10 - check engine compression to make sure you are good, check glow plugs for resistance / swelling - add antiseize to GP threads now while you can easily get to them out of the truck, if it comes with wiring harness check for chaffing, ensure all fuel lines and intakes are clear of debris if the engine isn't sealed up. If there is oil in the pan, do an oil analysis.

Do you know if the normal 6.5 turbo crossover exhaust pipe will fit right in with the original exhaust pipe/muffler config?
This one: NSN: 2990014222826
http://www.hummerpartsguy.com/PIPE-EXHAUST-CROSSOVER_p_643.html

Or would I need to get the Catalytic converter and the different muffler?

 

[ClarkeF]

I know a guy who did amturbo transplant into a NA truck, but I'm not sure about the exhaust mating. The NA muffler has heat shields that will need to be removed or cut back as they hit the t-case when it is pushed back into the NA muffler by the longer 4L80E.

You might just just go and have a shop Fab up a straight pipe. It's actually a pretty mellow sound even without cat or muffler when you have the turbo. Got a nice turbo whine when you spool it up.

 

[ohiohmmwv]

Do you know if the normal 6.5 turbo crossover exhaust pipe will fit right in with the original exhaust pipe/muffler config?
This one: NSN: 2990014222826
http://www.hummerpartsguy.com/PIPE-EXHAUST-CROSSOVER_p_643.html

Or would I need to get the Catalytic converter and the different muffler?

On #2 do you have part numbers or can you point me in the right direction to get the two turbo trim lip pieces. I'm about to start chopping my engine opening but would be nice to have these ahead of time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[erasedhammer]

I know a guy who did amturbo transplant into a NA truck, but I'm not sure about the exhaust mating. The NA muffler has heat shields that will need to be removed or cut back as they hit the t-case when it is pushed back into the NA muffler by the longer 4L80E.

You might just just go and have a shop Fab up a straight pipe. It's actually a pretty mellow sound even without cat or muffler when you have the turbo. Got a nice turbo whine when you spool it up.

I already have the 4l80 installed. It clears the old exhaust muffler, barely.
I'll be having one fabbed then.

 

[erasedhammer]

On #2 do you have part numbers or can you point me in the right direction to get the two turbo trim lip pieces. I'm about to start chopping my engine opening but would be nice to have these ahead of time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I'm not sure that I know of any lip pieces. I planned on just cutting the body and slapping the doghouse on it. I'm not sure while people keep saying the lip is required.