6.5 turbo intake on NA 6.2

[Ordak]

I have tried searching the forums for someone who put a 6.5 turbo intake on their 6.2 without turbo charging and have found nothing. I am looking into putting a the intake manifold and the top elbow from a 6.5 turbo diesel on 6.2 and keeping it NA. My thought was to put it on to help the 6.2 breath easier and put a cold air intake on. I did read this thread were jimmy-90 explains his ram air intake. I wanted to take it one step further so it wasn't putting most of the air on one part of the filter and move the filter closer to the front of my m1009. I am not expecting to gain much if any HP or anything else but rather just let it breath easier. Any thoughts?

I can get an intake and gasket kit for 150-200 and the cold air intake I have

 

[NDT]

Impossible. The ports on the head are at a different angle between NA and turbocharged.

EDIT: Only on HMMWV engines

 

[Ordak]

I am not trying to doubt you but when people put a 6.5 turbo on a 6.2 don't they use 6.5 intake manifolds? It was my understanding that the 6.5 and 6.2 intake manifolds were the same


Here is the main thread that describes using a 6.5 intake manifold on 6.2
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?43430-How-to-turbo-a-6-2-using-6-5-parts

 

[NDT]

I am not trying to doubt you but when people put a 6.5 turbo on a 6.2 don't they use 6.5 intake manifolds? It was my understanding that the 6.5 and 6.2 intake manifolds were the same


Here is the main thread that describes using a 6.5 intake manifold on 6.2
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?43430-How-to-turbo-a-6-2-using-6-5-parts

Sorry I messed up. I jumped to the conclusion that you wanted to put a HMMWV turbo intake on your 6.2. No reason that a 6.5 side mount turbo intake manifold won't fit on a 6.2.

 

[Ilikemtb999]

A 6.5 turbo 2 piece intake manifold will bolt right on however I think it would severely choke your NA engine. The inlet is like 2.5” in diameter.

 

[Ordak]

I am not sure that it would choke it any less than the stock air cleaner hole

 

[Ilikemtb999]

The air cleaner hole is at least 5” in diameter. It’s been a while since I’ve had one. I can measure my old one in the morning.


also that 2.5” is the ID of the coupler from the turbo to the inlet so the ID of the inlet is smaller than that.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Ordak, I have the manifolds new in the box if you need one.

 

[nattieleather]

I don't see why it wouldn't work. The manifold from a side turbo 6.5 is a direct bolt in on a 6.2. The top cap/horn that bolts to the manifold and would go to the turbo is maybe the only area of concern as Ilikemtb999 pointed out. But yes the manifold does bolt up no problems.

 

[HETvet]

The highest flowing factory intake manifold for the 6.2/6.5/6.5T engines, per flow bench numbers, is the single plain 6.2 “J code” intake manifold. The 6.5T can’t flow the same CFM, but that is what the turbo is for, or that is the theory. It (the 6.5T) speeds up the charge Air velocity in to the intake runners. Personally, I suspect they did this to limit dwell time in the intake manifold that is sitting in a hot engine bay on top of a hot engine. The air charge would get heat soaked and thusly negate and advantage the turbo is bringing to the table. This is further backed up by the fact you can take a 6.5T (GM8 turbo) and swap the turbo on to a 6.2 and see a boost pressure drop, everything else being equal (minus the 6.2 IP being turned up, turbo manifolds and exhaust on the 6.2, and both engines running “diamond” precombustion chambers)

 

[richingalveston]

I think you see a boost pressure drop because the displacements of the engines are different. pressure is relative to the displacement when the turbo is the same. The engine is just a pump to the exhaust side of the turbo and thus the 6.2 and 6.5 are going to pump different rates.

putting the turbo inlet on without the turbo will not help the engine. The turbo adds pressure so the flow through the smaller hole is actually greater than that of the lager air intake hole in the air cleaner.

before you waste any time just make an adaptor for your current air cleaner and choke it down to 2.5 inches and take it for a drive.

for a good fresh air intake you want at least a 4 inch tube and the cone shaped air filter on the end.

 

[HETvet]

The exhaust side of a turbo dosent care about exhaust pulses or pumping of the engine. It gives the hot exhaust gases somewhere to expand, and the rapid expansion is captured by the turbine. EGT retention is the name of the game on the exhaust side. The cold side(pressure side) is a pump. It can only create flow. It can’t create pressure as pressure is a measure of resistance. If the waste gate actuator is set for 20 PSI, and on the 6.5T you can achieve 20PSI manifold pressure, but on the 6.2 you can only achieve 18PSI. It boils down to intake manifold and cylinder head flow differences. The heads flow almost identical numbers to each other. The measurable difference is in the intake manifold flow numbers.

The unspoken of elephant in the room here is the air flow ability of the induction system. NO isn’t going to believe me on these number, but here are the number;550-about 600CFM. The factory air filter can only flow 500 CFM before it becomes a restriction.

If you don’t have the J code intake manifold, get one. Not knowing your ability, I would port match the intake manifold, port and polish the intake manifold and polish the intake plenum. Then, at least apply a DEI intake manifold heat shield to the bottom of the intake manifold. Keep your intake tubes the same size as your intake manifold inlet with smooth radius bends. Route the air filter out of the engine bay. Use the largest, highest flowing air filter you can. Wrap your intake tubes with a heat shield product. Stan’s headers makes a stainless steel header kit for the 6.2, I would buy them and wrap them with header wrap prior to install. Then have a ceramic coated, 3” exhaust system installed.

If you have an unlimited budget and just want to spend money on it, pull the heads and have the heads and J code intake manifold extrude honed. Install larger valves, Then port match the intake manifold and heads to each other and the headers to the heads to each other. Then do everything else recommended above.

But, typically, air flow is not an issue in terms of power production with a Diesel engine as a diesel can’t run to lean. Sure you can increase air flow as much as you want, you will be just moving more air out the exhaust pipe if you don’t have the fuel to take advantage of the increased air flow. A set of marine injectors and/or a turned up/recalibrated injection pump will net a noticeable power increase than increasing air flow.

Before anything is done, it’s highly recommended to install a set of gauges; EGT most importantly, before any power modifications are performed.

 

[Ordak]

Well I might be holding off this project for a while and do some more research and see if I can fabricate a larger intake with a cone filter. I might be getting rid of the m1009 and trading it for a c30 flatbed. I am going to look at it Sunday but if I keep the blazer I will keep you guys updated on how I make something.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Good info Hetvet, cept one(minor) correction. I've done lots of research and the stock injectors will flow way more fuel than the IP will put out. I wouldn't waste money on those injectors unless you have your IP recalibrated to flow way more than stock.

 

[HETvet]

That is why I said turn up the IP, have it recalibrated, marine injector, or a combination there of.

I wouldn’t scrap the project. In my eyes, I love to tinker and fabricate. Just for something to stimulate my mind, I would build my own intake tract. I wouldn’t invest a bunch of money into it. Shoot, I got that itch one day so I went and bought me some diodes and wired up my relays so I can run my day time running lights, low beams, high beams, and fog lights all at the same time, or any combination there of, on my 05 suburban Z71. I’ve also modified the factory air box and air box mount so that it flows more air and gets a ram air effect from the fender liner/wheel well. Probably did nothing more than make me have to change my air filter more often. But it satisfied my mind.
I just want to make you aware that from a upgrade/performance stand point, it’s not going to gain anything, infact most likely will have a negative impact (the 6.5T intake manifold swap part). The air flow limiting factors that are very difficult to over come in this case is air flow through the intake runner of the head, flow through the exhaust runner of the head. But by design, Diesel engines can’t run to lean. That’s why unregulated and unlimited nitrous can’t hurt a Diesel engine. They can run to rich though. That’s why rolling coal and black smoke will hurt them. This is from over fueling(more fuel than there is enough oxygen to burn it). This causes EGT (exhaust gas temperature) to climb. If it gets hot enough, you will melt Pistons, weld rings to cylinder walls, exc.