6 new tires on my M923A2, what pitfalls can I avoid?

[Lizard333]

I am new to this, so please forgive my ignorance. I recently purchased my M923A2, and it needs 6 new tires. The ones that are on it are dry rotted and the sidewalls are cracking, and I have already blown two of the Michelin tires and the only ones that still look good are the Goodyear's. They are the 14.00 R20's and I will be replacing them for the same tire, as I have no interest in going to the 16.00's. I have already gotten one of the split rims apart, it was a pain in the butt, as the tire had no sidewall to pry against, but with lots of penetrating oil, it was done.

The rims themselves are in good shape, no rust, the benefits of living in the desert. I am repainting and acid etch priming the rims where needed just to ensure no problems down the road. I am getting new 1/4 inch o rings, and I am thinking of replacing the valve stem grommets as well, while I have the tires apart. New valve stems in are order as well.

Are there any tools that I should get that would aid in the process? Any tips for a new guy? Does my plan sound about right?
Thanks in advance, you guys have all be a great help so far, and I really appreciate the input..

Thanks!!

 

[simp5782]

I am new to this, so please forgive my ignorance. I recently purchased my M923A2, and it needs 6 new tires. The ones that are on it are dry rotted and the sidewalls are cracking, and I have already blown two of the Michelin tires and the only ones that still look good are the Goodyear's. They are the 14.00 R20's and I will be replacing them for the same tire, as I have no interest in going to the 16.00's. I have already gotten one of the split rims apart, it was a pain in the butt, as the tire had no sidewall to pry against, but with lots of penetrating oil, it was done.

The rims themselves are in good shape, no rust, the benefits of living in the desert. I am repainting and acid etch priming the rims where needed just to ensure no problems down the road. I am getting new 1/4 inch o rings, and I am thinking of replacing the valve stem grommets as well, while I have the tires apart. New valve stems in are order as well.

Are there any tools that I should get that would aid in the process? Any tips for a new guy? Does my plan sound about right?
Thanks in advance, you guys have all be a great help so far, and I really appreciate the input..

Thanks!!

Duck bill hammer if you are a newbie. Tire soap. Good ratchet strap for swapping the beadlock insert over. Good impact gun. Wheel o rings

If you need prices on tires just let me know

 

[Lukes_deuce]

While you have the rim apart, I would change the o ring and entire valve stem with seal. Then, you dont have to worry about it (leaks) for a long time. Also, 1400s are becoming harder and harder to find, as they are no longer used by the military. Either 395s or 16s are you choice for newer dated tires.

As far as tools, good pry bars, a tire chair, good impact with plenty of air, 1 & 1/8" deep socket for the rim studs and forget the size of the lug nuts, maybe 1 & 1/2". Lots of motivation.

 

[98G]

14's are getting scarce. I'd go with 395s or 16's . My preference is 16's on hemtt rims but 395s are much cheaper and work better on the stock 5ton combat rims.

In your position I'd go 395s.

 

[Lizard333]

Duck bill hammer if you are a newbie. Tire soap. Good ratchet strap for swapping the beadlock insert over. Good impact gun. Wheel o rings

If you need prices on tires just let me know

Sent you a PM. Thanks!

 

[Lizard333]

Thanks for the info. Im going to start looking into that size now. I definitly don't need the higher load rating for what I am doing.

 

[Lizard333]

While you have the rim apart, I would change the o ring and entire valve stem with seal. Then, you dont have to worry about it (leaks) for a long time. Also, 1400s are becoming harder and harder to find, as they are no longer used by the military. Either 395s or 16s are you choice for newer dated tires.

As far as tools, good pry bars, a tire chair, good impact with plenty of air, 1 & 1/8" deep socket for the rim studs and forget the size of the lug nuts, maybe 1 & 1/2". Lots of motivation.

If you don't mind me asking what is a Tire Chair?

 

[tobyS]

The 395's are noticeably shorter and lower your top speed. They are my recommendation as well. Here they are on my M929. Definitely repaint the seal areas, new o-rings and valve stem seal. Load rating on the 14.00 AT-2 GY is about 9700 and the rating on the 395 Michelins is around 12.500.

 

[74M35A2]

If you don't mind me asking what is a Tire Chair?

 

[holley68]

tobys, I've thought about doing your wheel and tires setup on my M51A2. Going need to bite the bullet sometime, the NDT are getting old.

Have you had any issues when loaded? Worry about a blow out?

 

[fasttruck]

There is a basket like devise that attaches to the lock ring side of the rim. 9:00X20s and 11:00X20s can be difficult to get off the rim if a ridge of rust has formed on the rim. Tire is placed on stand with lock ring down and then you get to beat on the miscreant tire with a tire hammer or spade until the tire falls off the rim and on the ground. This may be what some folks call a "tire chair."

Reference post 10: Unless the truck is only going to be yard driven I would worry about any questionable tires especially on the front; empty and especially if loaded. A front tire failure creates the opportunity to loose control of the vehicle and will definitely stop you until you can mount the spare or move one of the back tires up to the front. Do you have tools on the truck that are capable of loosening the lug nuts ? If they have been on for a while and have a lot of paint on the threads the issue tools probably will not get them off. I used to travel with two jacks as with a front flat if the jack is compressed enough to get under the axle it will not lift it high enough to install the replacement tire. So unless the truck is on dirt so you can dig a hole, or you have a lot of chocking, this will be a problem.

 

[tobyS]

tobys, I've thought about doing your wheel and tires setup on my M51A2. Going need to bite the bullet sometime, the NDT are getting old.

Have you had any issues when loaded? Worry about a blow out?

No, I have not had issues when loaded and I don't worry about a blow out. Tires that are about to give up usually give some warning and have more age than these do. The Goodyear AT-2 14.00's that were on it before were egg shaped and stating to give warning signs of potential failure, but not these Michelins.

 

[Lizard333]

There is a basket like devise that attaches to the lock ring side of the rim. 9:00X20s and 11:00X20s can be difficult to get off the rim if a ridge of rust has formed on the rim. Tire is placed on stand with lock ring down and then you get to beat on the miscreant tire with a tire hammer or spade until the tire falls off the rim and on the ground. This may be what some folks call a "tire chair."

Reference post 10: Unless the truck is only going to be yard driven I would worry about any questionable tires especially on the front; empty and especially if loaded. A front tire failure creates the opportunity to loose control of the vehicle and will definitely stop you until you can mount the spare or move one of the back tires up to the front. Do you have tools on the truck that are capable of loosening the lug nuts ? If they have been on for a while and have a lot of paint on the threads the issue tools probably will not get them off. I used to travel with two jacks as with a front flat if the jack is compressed enough to get under the axle it will not lift it high enough to install the replacement tire. So unless the truck is on dirt so you can dig a hole, or you have a lot of chocking, this will be a problem.

I am trying to find the tool you described that attaches to the split rim, but I am having trouble finding one that will fit a 20" rim. Any idea where I can find it?

 

[simp5782]

I am trying to find the tool you described that attaches to the split rim, but I am having trouble finding one that will fit a 20" rim. Any idea where I can find it?

You do not have a split rim wheel like he is talking about. Yours has beadlock nuts so just unbolt them hit under the lip with a prybar or duckbill hammer and it will come apart. You do not have that issue of rust on a split rim. If you have a stuck tire use diesel to lube it up or a torch to weaken the rubber to make the lip let go.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wORMHEWjvTg&t=1s

 

[fasttruck]

Reference post 12: "warning," lotsa luck with that. I have had both radial tubeless and bias ply tube tires either blow out or peel the tread off with about one nanosecond of "warning." Proper inflation, not overloading and frequent inspection for cracks and bulges will prevent some of these disasters from occurring but a tire that is checked or cracked does not come with a guarantee of a warning. Are dump trucks ever overloaded ? Say it isn't so.

Post 13: The tire stand I had was adjustable for 16", 20" and 22" rims. Google for tire tools or tire shop supplies and maybe you can find a new one or hit auctions of trucking or construction companies going out of business. This device is for M 37, M 35 and 809 series rims, not what is described in post 14 or for tubeless tires as a M915 has. Unfortunately I do not have a picture of one to share

 

[Nomadic]

You do not have a split rim wheel like he is talking about. Yours has beadlock nuts so just unbolt them hit under the lip with a prybar or duckbill hammer and it will come apart. You do not have that issue of rust on a split rim. If you have a stuck tire use diesel to lube it up or a torch to weaken the rubber to make the lip let go.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wORMHEWjvTg&t=1s

That is impressive. No tire shop needed.

 

[tobyS]

Reference post 12: "warning," lotsa luck with that. I have had both radial tubeless and bias ply tube tires either blow out or peel the tread off with about one nanosecond of "warning." Proper inflation, not overloading and frequent inspection for cracks and bulges will prevent some of these disasters from occurring but a tire that is checked or cracked does not come with a guarantee of a warning. Are dump trucks ever overloaded ? Say it isn't so.

Maybe in heavier use than I use it there would be a more optimum tire and wheel than the 395 Michelin XZL on combat rims, but I don't have enough 000'S in my bank account to afford them. The Goodyear AT-2 that came on it had problems and may have led to a failure....about 20x more likely than the new Michelins.

 

[simp5782]

Maybe in heavier use than I use it there would be a more optimum tire and wheel than the 395 Michelin XZL on combat rims, but I don't have enough 000'S in my bank account to afford them. The Goodyear AT-2 that came on it had problems and may have led to a failure....about 20x more likely than the new Michelins.

I actually have the Goodyear OTR Rep from Oklahoma City coming by next Tuesday to examine the AT-3s I have that are cracking and bulging between the treads after just 1 year of use. He also wants to ride in a truck that has AT-2s on it cause he hasn't heard about the egg shape issue. I said pfft i can lead you to countless people.

 

[162tcat]

I actually have the Goodyear OTR Rep from Oklahoma City coming by next Tuesday to examine the AT-3s I have that are cracking and bulging between the treads after just 1 year of use. He also wants to ride in a truck that has AT-2s on it cause he hasn't heard about the egg shape issue. I said pfft i can lead you to countless people.

Curious to hear what he has to say about that.


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