60A regulator on 200A alternator?

[badger_610889]

Hi folks,
So the regulator on my A2 is acting funny with inconsistent voltage from 22 to 28v and the 12V stage is simply dead.

Since I don't use and don't plan to use the 12V circuit is it ok to simply ignore it or are there 12V devices I'm not aware of that need the regulated 12V channel?

On the 24V side there are multiple options including military 24V regulators with 25, 50 and 60 amps.
Since the dual voltage regulator for the 200 is ridiculously expensive and my truck will certainly never run more than 50 to 100 amps I'm considering one of these options.

So the questions:
Can I ditch the 12V or should I keep a dual voltage regulator such as the M998 60A?
If 12V can be ignored have people used alternatives such as Oshkosh solid state regulators?

thank you folks!

 

[badger_610889]

I read on this other post that the transmission my use 12V?

160 AMP 24 Volt - HMMWV - Alternator Upgrade Kit

Guys, Has anyone out there switched out the massive alternator for this Alternator Upgrade? My OEM version is starting to squeal, so new bearing/rebuild maybe necessary. Someone on FB suggested this upgrade instead.. Pros and cons to this?

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[Coug]

your A2 truck requires a 12V charge to power the transmission control module. If you do not have something to keep the rear battery charged up, they will become unbalanced and quickly kill your batteries. In some cases it's enough to destroy/rupture batteries.

All 4 speed trucks require a 12V power source. It can be done with a power converter or battery balancer system, rather than the alternator/generator.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

your A2 truck requires a 12V charge to power the transmission control module. If you do not have something to keep the rear battery charged up, they will become unbalanced and quickly kill your batteries. In some cases it's enough to destroy/rupture batteries.

All 4 speed trucks require a 12V power source. It can be done with a power converter or battery balancer system, rather than the alternator/generator.

The 14v tap doesn’t provide 12v for the TCM, the rear battery does, the purpose of the 14v tap is prevent an imbalance between the 2 batteries due do unequal draw…you can disconnect the 14v tap and the truck will run fine, the batteries on the other hand will suffer.

 

[Mogman]

When you say the 14V is dead are you reading the 14V tap with the cable disconnected?
The 200A is the most reliable despite your troubles, where are you reading the 22-28V?

 

[Coug]

The 14v tap doesn’t provide 12v for the TCM, the rear battery does, the purpose of the 14v tap is prevent an imbalance between the 2 batteries due do unequal draw…you can disconnect the 14v tap and the truck will run fine, the batteries on the other hand will suffer.

Yes. That is what I meant but didn't state the connection between the two statements, so thank you for clarifying.

 

[TOBASH]

These parts don’t mix and match. They are alternator specific. If you have a dual voltage alt, odds are you need a N3135 Neihoff regulator. They are pricey. Don’t buy the knockoffs by Wolfer on EBay. Get a real unit.

 

[badger_610889]

Thanks guys. Looks like I'm about to pop a grand to replace the regulator!

For those who have read the posts on my slantback issues:
- the regulator is physically damaged (badly) like multiple people jumped on it
- I had charge issues, truck wouldn't want to start at some point and the error was that battery was discharged or unbalanced according to the TM but the voltage was decent (I don't remember how much, but was above minimum required to crank and start).
- After charging both batteries the truck started well but I still experience charging issues, meter always in the red.
- Because of the "unbalanced aspect" I investigated and discovered the third battery under a passenger seat and got rid of all that stuff.
- Then charge was good (always in green) and haven't had issues since.

-> At that point I was relatively happy and thought that the regulator might be good in spite of looking beaten.

However a couple days ago I took the time to inspect and check the regulator and noticed that some connectors are physically broken, juice doesn't go through, impedances are infinite and the failures are physically deep into the silicon rubber in the enclosure.

I have tested the main 12V output and it was to a few mV which suggests a pin out. I tried the output to charge a motorcycle battery (charged at 10.2V) and nothing happens (remained at same voltage). That's also the line that goes between two batteries (to keep them balanced from what you guys described).

So my 24V does charge strongly, but the 12V is shot. I get that it does charge the 2x 12V batteries together but the one loaded with the tranny will run faster, and it's not charged a balanced way anyway...

I get that my procedure may not be optimal but what matters is that the regulator is dead and I don't care whether it's more or less dead
Once I get a new one I'll disassemble it and will see if I can redo the connections of the pins with the electronics sealed in the silicon and salvage it...

Thanks again for all the valuable info.

 

[badger_610889]

BTW that's the type of parts that I always buy new or certified refurbished by the manufacturer. Am I right?
I see there are used ones for about 1/3 of the price... I suspect they are sold independently of the alternator for a reason!?