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6TL Battery mystery

1800 Diesel

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Santa Rosa County, FL
Ran across a situation with a 6TL battery I got in with a genset. After trickle charging overnight (for abt 12 hrs), the battery reads a little over 12 volts, but when I connected a carbon pile load to it, the meter went to zero--as if it had no amperage at all... Usually what I find is one or two bad cells and a voltage reading of 8 or 10 volts. This is the first time I've seen a battery take a charge, read 12+ volts, but then shows no capacity when a load is applied...anyone seen this before?
 

rosco

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What little techinical stuff, that I know about batteries is: A fully charged battery is considered to have 12.66 volts. But they can have, what is called a "surface charge". So, when testing a battery, if super accuracy is desired, one should get rid of the surface charge. You can do that by flashing the headlights on, for a few seconds (or some other momentary load). Then take another reading - that will be more accurate.

It sounds like some kind of a "surface charge" is what you were dealing with. The MultiMeter, will give one a quick indication (usually correct) of the charge level of a battery, but your Carbon Pile Testor will give a true reading of wether the battery will do real work. I always wanted one. You might try your test again, but you are probably correct in thinking that the battery is scrap.
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
26
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
What little techinical stuff, that I know about batteries is: A fully charged battery is considered to have 12.66 volts. But they can have, what is called a "surface charge". So, when testing a battery, if super accuracy is desired, one should get rid of the surface charge. You can do that by flashing the headlights on, for a few seconds (or some other momentary load). Then take another reading - that will be more accurate.

It sounds like some kind of a "surface charge" is what you were dealing with. The MultiMeter, will give one a quick indication (usually correct) of the charge level of a battery, but your Carbon Pile Testor will give a true reading of wether the battery will do real work. I always wanted one. You might try your test again, but you are probably correct in thinking that the battery is scrap.
Yep the CP tester doesn't lie--when it loads the battery with basically a dead short, it separates the good from the bad....I'll test each cell and may try some sort of desulfation but most likely it'll go in the scrap-to-sell pile....

Thanks for checking in from way up in AK! :)
 

1800 Diesel

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768
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Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
Remember that current military issue TL6's are not traditional Lead Acid batteries
Ike,

I've got 2 sets--one has the old type caps for each cell...these appear to be lead acid type. The other set (Hawker) has sealed flush "caps" that appear to be not removable. It's one of the older models that is showing over 12.5v but "dead" when I apply the load.... One of the Hawkers is taking a charge & the other one won't and it is showing about 8 1/2 volts, so I expect it's gone....

Thanks,

Kevin
 

rosco

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Delta Junction, Alaska
Yeah, being up here, sometimes I get to feeling like one of the Step Kids.

But back to batteries, my Dad always like the Hygrometer, and to test each cell for "specific gravity". If there was much difference, from cell to cell, it usually ment a "push start", and don't shut it off till you get there! But with the new types of batteries, the hygrometer is going out of style.
 
Last edited:

1800 Diesel

Member
768
26
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
Yeah, being up here, sometimes I get to feeling like one of the Step Kids.

But back to batteries, my Dad always like the Hygrometer, and to test each cell for "specific gravity". If there was much difference, from cell to cell, it usually ment a "push start", and don't shut it off till you get there! But with the new types of batteries, the hygrometer is going out of style.
After having the same old Craftsman hygrometer for at least 15 years, my loving wife accidentally broke it while "cleaning up" my inside locker with all my fragile/expensive tools (micrometer set, dial indicators, voltmeters, vacuum gauge, refrigeration gauges, etc. etc.)....just haven't gotten around to buying another one, but it's on the short list....we still have many pieces of equipment with lead acid batteries so I need to get at least a basic one.... :)
 

juanprado

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Yes, I have seen that in my parts selling days from another lifetime....

I suspect you have a cracked plate or an internal broken connection on one of the grids. A stated earlier, you got the surface 12v but the battery is a lead sinker :-(
 

SCSG-G4

PSVB 3003
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Military uses a Reichert 7181 Duo-Check, which is usually available on flea-bay for less than $40 including shipping. It also tests antifreeze, hence the duo moniker.
 

Csm Davis

Well-known member
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Hattiesburg, Mississippi
Remember that current military issue TL6's are not traditional Lead Acid batteries
I think I am going to have to say that's not quite right, some are some are not, the hawker and optama are not but many 6tl are still wet lead acid type. Also on the agm and gel type if you will hook a fully charged battery to your one that won't charge up and charge them together it will bring many of them back to life.
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
26
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
I think I am going to have to say that's not quite right, some are some are not, the hawker and optama are not but many 6tl are still wet lead acid type. Also on the agm and gel type if you will hook a fully charged battery to your one that won't charge up and charge them together it will bring many of them back to life.
Are the Hawker AGM or gel type? The ones I have are labeled "Armasafe" on the side....Will take a look tonight and try setting up the two in parallel charging, it there's a chance. These two appear to be fairly new...one good, one up to 10.5 volts...BTW was at your pos a few days ago....or close by anyway... :)
 
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