You are making this more complicated then it is. You need to understand how the generator should work. Reading the -12 TM would help a lot. Also, answering questions people post here would help a lot. We can not be there, so you are our eyes and ears. If you don't tell us the things we need to know, helping you is hard.
The generator is designed to NOT start with certain failures in it. It will crank, but not start. Number one is "NO FUEL. When that circuit is lit up, that means the sen set is so low that the military doesn't want you to run or crank the gen set till the fuel system is dry. OR, it means that the FL! and FL2 Float switch is not working right. OR, it means that the electric Fuel pumps are not pumping fuel to the day tank. This is a "Show Stopper" Fault. You need to correct THIS fault before anything else. AND, It might fix other fauls at the same time. Make it run first, then clean up the small stuff.
YOU wrote:
The low fuel light, (Show stopper. This light is only on when you have bigger problems.) was on with the low oil. (This light should ALWAYS be on when the gen set is not running. Not running, no oil pressure. If its on while running, could be a problem. But prestart, in the start funtion, and before the engine hits is normal RPM, NOT a show Stopper) I filled the tank, (What tank? The Day Tank or the Set Tank?) but the fuel gauge only comes up to 1/4. (Not a show stopper. Pull the MT3 (Fuel tank level sender) out of the set tank and clean it, and inspect/TEST it IAW the -34 TM. After its out and clean, (and the float is often full of fuel), you can hook the wire back up and move the float up and down to see if the M3 Fuel level meter functions. You need to ground the MT3 to make it work right. But its NOT a show stopper and can be done later. Now when I set to run I hear no fuel pump till I turn on the Battle switch. (Why should you hear the fuel pump run? If the FL2 is telling the generator set that the Day tank is full, then the fuel pumps will NOT come on. If the electric fuel pumps come on with the S7 on, that tells you that the pumps work. We need to know if the pumps come on fast, then slow down? Or fast and never slow down? Are both pumps running? What kind of "New Fuel pump" did you put in? The SAME as the old pump? Because lots of pumps LOOK the same, but are NOT the same. Will the Day tank fill up? How fast? These are all questions that help find the problem. It will start and run, but as soon as I shut that down the engine shuts down. (Because the NO FUEL situation tells the engine to stop) Which way is the IP handle supposed to be facing the front or rear? I had moved it forward I moved it back and it started up.
(See the below picture to know how the IP and arm should be set up. Whan you had someone fix the IP, its always a good Idea to give them the -34 TM section on repair and adjustment of the IP. The Army and civilians do things differently. )
I called the group who installed the IP, due to small leaking I noticed from the backside, maybe a loose line?? (Could be that the injector bolt is not tight enough. Could be that one of the TWO washers that are supposed to be on the injector line bolt at the IP is missing. OR not installed properly. Happens OFTEN. Get a small mirror and look. Who installed the IP back on the set? You or them?)
I ran it for about 30 minutes, the oil stayed at 29/30 lbs, but the temp never came up. (This is NOT a Show stopper yet. Needs to be addressed later. Has nothing to do with starting and running. )
What is the leaking black sticky substance coming out of the bottom @ left side of the control panel? (The A1, Thermal Watt Converter is bad. Open the control panel and look to the right side. You should see where its leaking. The second picture shows an A1. Some are plastic, some are metal. Mostly the plastic ones leak.)
The gen set is supposed to be looked at from the control panel end. That is the rear side.
I feel like I'm paying "Whack-a Mole" Get one and another pops up.
