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700R4 transmission in a HMMWV

Mullaney

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Update on Bowtie Overdrives: I have been unsuccessful in getting any monetary help from Bowtie Overdrives. I paid a reputable shop to install the trans purchased from Bowtie. Bowtie claims we did not follow their warranty instructions by providing line pressures and other items to make sure it was shifting correctly, etc. They said they would rebuild the trans if I returned it. That's a start but shipping costs, paying the shop to R&R and the time involved with shipping/waiting on return was unacceptable and would cost nearly the same as what my local shop said they would re-rebuild and warranty the trans for 3 years. Bowtie verbally said if I had given them line pressures etc. before the failure they would have covered all expenses. That contradicts their official warranty on the website.

I "feel" like if the roles were reversed I would accommodate a customer who used a professional shop to install one of my rebuilds that failed within technically 65 miles. Not to mention inspection showed it was something very rare to both builders and neither can understand how the failure could have happened. Either way, that is how I feel, but feelings don't matter in this situation. The fact is I paid Bowtie for their product. In doing so I was told there was a warranty but did not look into the details of the warranty and the steps to make it valid. Turns out, after going to their website you have to earn their warranty. Please read the warranty attachment below. After reading this, I would not suggest anyone buy a trans from Bowtie, unless Bowtie physically installs the transmission themselves. That way there is no way they can blame a mistake on you and refuse warranty work. Plus that warranty would cover removal and reinstallation.

I have nothing against Bowtie Overdrives. If they were in my home area I would use them. My advice to anyone considering a trans swap is to purchase all necessary parts except the trans(unless it needs a rebuild) pay a local shop for rebuild/installation and get a real warranty that covers the build and installation. If you have a trans shipped in and installed by another shop you are rolling the dice.

My .02 not that anyone asked
.
That's pretty crummy. Somehow though people like that continue to stay in business. I understand a warranty - but slipping in the sneaky way for the vendor to get out of it "Just Ain't Right". Then again too, I guess that reading the paperwork is what we have to do to survive.

I agree that it only makes sense for you to use your local transmission shop to do the repair. Though I would make DARN SURE what their warranty will do for you if something goes wrong. AND if whatever they claim your new warranty will do isn't in writing it isn't worth having.
 

Mogman

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I have always recommended that folks get their trans built by a local shop and this experience bears that out, having said that because I do all the install work myself I picked a highly recommended shop in Houston, a 4 hour drive yes but in Texas that is "local"
 

MarkM

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That is the way things are done. Deny and reflect issues at all costs. Pay only when there is no choice. On the other hand people will try to get rewarded for their install screw-ups and expect to be bailed out by the vendor. Not saying it is this way in this case but it is the way companies handle problems.

Mark
 

Mullaney

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That is the way things are done. Deny and reflect issues at all costs. Pay only when there is no choice. On the other hand people will try to get rewarded for their install screw-ups and expect to be bailed out by the vendor. Not saying it is this way in this case but it is the way companies handle problems.

Mark
.
Sad but True - in a lot of cases...
 

Mogman

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Monitoring the pressures on a 700R4 when installed is a fairly big deal, the TV cable adjustment is critical to the transmission survival, if far enough off it can fry the transmission in just a few miles, I am NOT saying that was the case here but the shop installing it should have monitored the pressures before letting it out of the shop, if it could not be done because of some issue, say a missing piece that kept them from checking the pressure then it should not have been driven until that issue was resolved and the pressure checked.
So I fully understand the stipulation in the warranty that the pressures must be checked before the vehicle is released to be driven.
Also it may have helped if the shop had contacted the builder.
 

Glider

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Monitoring the pressures on a 700R4 when installed is a fairly big deal, the TV cable adjustment is critical to the transmission survival, if far enough off it can fry the transmission in just a few miles, I am NOT saying that was the case here but the shop installing it should have monitored the pressures before letting it out of the shop, if it could not be done because of some issue, say a missing piece that kept them from checking the pressure then it should not have been driven until that issue was resolved and the pressure checked.

So I fully understand the stipulation in the warranty that the pressures must be checked before the vehicle is released to be driven.
Also it may have helped if the shop had contacted the builder.
I agree. I made several assumptions that cost me $$$$. It's probably worth a sticky on the swap. We have enough information including parts lists to benefit our users. Too bad I'm not organized enough to do that sort of thing.
 

Glider

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Back to the swap...I managed to kill a alternator regulator and blow out a geared hub seal. I'm sure the seal is from the swap and everything is spinning faster now. I still have tc locking switch as temporary switch ran to drivers seat. I've been thinking about putting a y adapter on the exciter wire connection at alternator. It would be switched and easily installed. Any reasons not to do that and use as switched signal for tc lockup. I'm going to skip the brake switch. I've played with the manual switch and don't think I will miss that extra control.
 

Mogman

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The switched power to the alt is 24V, you need 12V for the TC lockup, if you are only running TC in 4th you really do not need switched 12V to the TC lockup wire.
 

Glider

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I was going to use the 24v signal to operate a 24v relay to turn off 12v signal when not in use. Basically just to turn the 12v off to prevent battery drain.
 

Mogman

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I was going to use the 24v signal to operate a 24v relay to turn off 12v signal when not in use. Basically just to turn the 12v off to prevent battery drain.
Should not be necessary the only time that circuit pulls any current is when in 4th gear, I would just use a fused link to the 12V source
 

redneckitguy

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I have always recommended that folks get their trans built by a local shop and this experience bears that out, having said that because I do all the install work myself I picked a highly recommended shop in Houston, a 4 hour drive yes but in Texas that is "local"
Would you mind sharing who you used in TX? I'm in central TX and could use a Transmission shop that knows what they are doing.
 

Mogman

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Air World transmission in Houston.
Not a big shop but I have always been pleased with the work and knowledge.
Are you thinking of installing a 700R4? if so I may have something that will get you to a good start.
 

Milcommoguy

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What part of central Texas?, that in itself is larger than many states.
Don't know Texas... But I have watched utubes of a shop named Precision Transmissions in Amarillo. Seem like a "good oh boy" re-builder. Kid gets into it too.

What ya think of that operation, CAMO
 

redneckitguy

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Air World transmission in Houston.
Not a big shop but I have always been pleased with the work and knowledge.
Are you thinking of installing a 700R4? if so I may have something that will get you to a good start.
Thanks for the recommendation. I am actually West of Waco.

And yeah eventually Id like to put the 700R4 in it.
 
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