71DeuceAK's M929A2

[Mullaney]

The rubber seals on the gladhands are fairly cheap. Maybe a buck each or so. NAPA has them for sure and even a truckstop might be a possibility. Light bulbs might be another thing to get at NAPA. Don't bother with LED's. It is going to drive you crazy making the flashers work - and rather than fixing one or two - then everything that "lights" will need a new bulb. Some antioxidation paste on the sockets might be time well spent too.

Tailgate chains need those twisted pieces of round stock and an eyelet bent in there too. If you have a pal with a torch, that could be easily done for not much bread...

ABS is a little tougher. There is a tool for that. Plugs into the truck and points you in the direction of a fix. Might be that you could carefully inspect around the drums. There are sensors on all six wheels. Even one "out of whack" or a broken wire or the sensor bent away from the drum will throw the ABS light into the on position.

Axle hub bolt may require a little work and a thread repair kit. Helicoil could solve that for you. CLEAN is going to be important so it doesn't back out later or leak gear oil. McMaster-Carr is a possibility and Fastenal is another possibility.

As far as an exhaust leak is concerned... I hate it for you, but that is something I had to do recently. Not much fun at all. Use a business card and slip it in what appears to be the crack that you described near the turbo. With the truck off, you will at least know for sure WHERE the leak is coming from. Cheap way to poke and prod the exhaust without hurting anything.

 

[71DeuceAK]

The rubber seals on the gladhands are fairly cheap. Maybe a buck each or so. NAPA has them for sure and even a truckstop might be a possibility. Light bulbs might be another thing to get at NAPA. Don't bother with LED's. It is going to drive you crazy making the flashers work - and rather than fixing one or two - then everything that "lights" will need a new bulb. Some antioxidation paste on the sockets might be time well spent too.

Tailgate chains need those twisted pieces of round stock and an eyelet bent in there too. If you have a pal with a torch, that could be easily done for not much bread...

ABS is a little tougher. There is a tool for that. Plugs into the truck and points you in the direction of a fix. Might be that you could carefully inspect around the drums. There are sensors on all six wheels. Even one "out of whack" or a broken wire or the sensor bent away from the drum will throw the ABS light into the on position.

Axle hub bolt may require a little work and a thread repair kit. Helicoil could solve that for you. CLEAN is going to be important so it doesn't back out later or leak gear oil. McMaster-Carr is a possibility and Fastenal is another possibility.

As far as an exhaust leak is concerned... I hate it for you, but that is something I had to do recently. Not much fun at all. Use a business card and slip it in what appears to be the crack that you described near the turbo. With the truck off, you will at least know for sure WHERE the leak is coming from. Cheap way to poke and prod the exhaust without hurting anything.

Good thoughts. I’m going to probably stay incandescent for now with the lights. (BTW, how do I activate the hazards/4 way flashers? Never been able to do that successfully).

I’ll try the business card on my suspected exhaust leak. Do I try and fire her up with that in there and see if it stops?

Wheel seal is going to be a fun one.

 

[71DeuceAK]

Got a spare tire today, was originally with the truck but didn’t get to go pick it up until now. Needs a valve stem and possibly a gasket. Was heavy but not too bad with three of us.
It had sat in a cornfield for over a year, planted around by farmer, got it in a dump trailer and dropped and rolled into my garage, where it’s at least out of the sunlight.

Also managed to run the truck out of fuel on a maintenance startup. Fighting to get it primed, did the air wand and rag in the fuel tank, cracked every bleeder, spent about 4 hours so not like I’m lacking persistence. Any suggestions? Gonna verify the hand pump is good by drawing off a small bottle of diesel and blow backwards from injection pump.

 

[Mullaney]

Good thoughts. I’m going to probably stay incandescent for now with the lights. (BTW, how do I activate the hazards/4 way flashers? Never been able to do that successfully).

I’ll try the business card on my suspected exhaust leak. Do I try and fire her up with that in there and see if it stops?

Wheel seal is going to be a fun one.

.
The Hazards would normally be activated by pulling out the silver metal tab on an older SignalStat and the newer ones should activate by pulling straignt out out on the turn lever on the column. All relatively easy tugs, nothing should be forced. AND if neither of that works - maybe post a picture - just in case?

I wouldn't fire up the truck with the business card in there. Just trying to see how much of a crack there might be in the pipe. Sadly that is where the pipe breaks most often, but if it isn't awful maybe somebody could weld it (off the truck).

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

 

[71DeuceAK]

Still fighting the fuel system. New filter in order, gonna go from there, also pull the pickup tube in the tank.

 

[KN6KXR]

If your A2 is like mine then the hazards are activated by first switching to right indicator then pressing down on the green tab on the top and moving the lever further right. I drove my M936A2 2500 miles home and got pretty used to doing this.

Somewhere on here there's a really good thread on rebuilding the fuel valve. Once you get it working it seems the consensus is to make sure you switch it once in awhile. Apparently they tend to freeze up. Working on similar stuff I would agree.

The seller of my truck had a few 939 series and gave me a new fuel filter housing with the vehicle. He indicated the housing would tend to fill with goo and the drain valve become INOP on vehicles that would sit. If I were you I would just pull the whole thing and check it out. I've had to prime similar Cummins and Deere and they aren't hard. There's just a technique and it can be different on different setups. From what I understand this version of the 8.3 has a bleed port for priming on the IP (though I haven't used it so far on this motor I suggest look in the TM). So if your having problems.... you have problems. A small air compressor and some flare wrenches would really help here. Crack them open and methodically blow them end to end. All of them from the tank to the IP. For that matter the injector lines as well. I got lucky and bought a well cared for vehicle that had at least been regularly started. Once in awhile I get a job resurrecting a dope grower generator out here (mostly with CAT or Deere 6-cyl mechanical IP systems) and this is what I do. Takes all damn day but it works. I see some really weird shit get spit out of the lines after sitting in the forest....

My trucks glad hands and gaskets were garbage. I think I paid $22 for two red, two blue and 10 gaskets on Amazon. Cheap chinese and needed tape and dope but hold just fine. I smear some "Super Lube" 100% silicon lubricating compound on the surfaces and this keeps all my rubber bits and orings in great shape. Keeps them from tearing. Once again Amazon. I also took a blue glad hand and made a handle with shutoff valve using a 1/2" chunk of pipe and a valve. Stuck a air fitting in there and now use it for using the onboard air as well as airing the truck up from shop air so I can track down leaks. No way you can go after leaks with the motor running. This has been one of the handier and cheaper things I've done.

So much to do! I'm going after my CTIS and updating the whole thing. Finally broke down and bought one of those 20-ton air over hydraulic jacks from Harbor Freight (highly recommend BTW) as the manual jack was kicking my ass. This thing is bent on keeping my wallet flat but the grin on my face says it's worth it.