8.3 Engine Timing Pin

[Mos68x]

Has anyone ever had to replace theirs? Mine is missing the pin, and the bottom screw/bolt is stripped out. Just need to know how you replaced it, thanks.

 

[74M35A2]

Just buy and install a replacement. It is only used when synchronizing injection pump timing. Otherwise, it stays retracted for the most part. Your engine may have been cranked or started when it was left pushed in, and sheared it off.

Why are all these things falling off your engine? Rocker arms, timing pins, etc... Skip the powder coating, buy some Lock-Tite.

 

[Mos68x]

Just buy and install a replacement. It is only used when synchronizing injection pump timing. Otherwise, it stays retracted for the most part. Your engine may have been cranked or started when it was left pushed in, and sheared it off.

Why are all these things falling off your engine? Rocker arms, timing pins, etc... Skip the powder coating, buy some Lock-Tite.

I could leave it as is and be fine for a while, but eventually I’m going to want to know exactly where the timing is set and I can’t really do that without this pin. Buying the replacement is the EASY part, how to get the stripped bolt out is going to be the real issue. Normally I have no issues with torx screws/bolts, but the bottom one stripped out while I was trying to remove it a few months ago. I’ll probably remove the air compressor and the fuel pump so I can get to it much easier, but it’s still pretty snug to the block so there still isn’t much room to get any gorilla tools on it.

 

[Scrounger]

Not having looked at the problem you have I’ll offer what has worked for me in the past. I use an acetylene torch with a B tank, left hand thread drill bits, a center punch, and finally a candle.
Center punch the bolt. Then heat it with the torch till it is quite warm. Then push the candle up against the broken bolt. The heat will draw the wax into the threads. Then use a left-hand bit and the bolt may come out. If it doesn’t come out, you’ll have a hole ready for whatever version of screw extractor you have. I have an Irwin that has served me well.

 

[Mos68x]

Need to have this pin working for when I check valve lash before bolting the valve cover down, so much for letting it be for a while if I had to.

 

[74M35A2]

Pin not required, but handy. You can also find #1 TDC using a self made pointer against the harmonic damper and rocking to each side of TDC with #1 valves cranked down excessively (factory approved method). If you plan to advance the injection timing at all, you would need this method and not the timing pin anyway, unless you have the pump sent out to have the timing advanced in it, then you would simply pin time it upon installation, same as factory setup.

 

[MAdams]

As you know, you'll never get a drill and bolt extractor in there to remove a broken bolt. My timing pin 2 bolt flange is broken so only one bolt holds it in place BUT it still functions property with only one bolt. You can always pull the #1 injector and use a coat hanger to check for TDC

 

[74M35A2]

If the flange sits flush with the rear face of the gear housing, can you just rotate the flange so it turns the screw loose? I have done this a zillion times on things. Should be able to if the plastic pin is not there at all anymore?

 

[WillWagner]

You dton't need to remove the housing, just buy a new pin ans clip, you'll be fine. And you can adjust the overhead by watching the valves. #2 exh all the way down is tdc #1. Start there.

 

[74M35A2]

...as long as the #2 rockers don’t fall off while doing so.

 

[Mos68x]

...as long as the #2 rockers don’t fall off while doing so.

Started it up today after putting most of it together and it ran perfect, but when I went back to start it again after getting the turbo on and it sounded like it had a knock again. Rotated the turbo and disconnected the turbo piping just in case it was boost related but it’s still there. These engine issues are really staring to get under my skin!

 

[74M35A2]

Knock knock.......

Were you the one with the cracked block? I forgot and keep asking this...

 

[Mos68x]

Knock knock.......

Were you the one with the cracked block? I forgot and keep asking this...

That that I know of

 

[Mos68x]

I took a look again today just to be sure and the pin IS there, so I musta been thinkin of my fuel pump when I was thinkin it was missing. But since my pump may be suspect (can’t think of any other reason for the issue I’m having) if i do get a rebuilt one then I’ll see if I can have them set it for the 16degrees that I’ve read it optimal. At least then I won’t have do any fancy work to get it advanced. I really hope I can do without it though since that thing costs $1900 without the core charge.

 

[74M35A2]

$200 gets it flow tested and timing advanced at most pump shops. Maybe an injector is stuck open if it is knocking. Closed would just be misfire (?).

 

[Jbulach]

Started it up today after putting most of it together and it ran perfect, but when I went back to start it again after getting the turbo on and it sounded like it had a knock again. Rotated the turbo and disconnected the turbo piping just in case it was boost related but it’s still there. These engine issues are really staring to get under my skin!

How hot did you have to get your new injectors when you powder coated them? Are you getting any unusual exhaust smoke when it’s running bad?

 

[Mos68x]

$200 gets it flow tested and timing advanced at most pump shops. Maybe an injector is stuck open if it is knocking. Closed would just be misfire (?).

I’ll hav to see if there is a shop even remotely close that’ll do that for me then. It’s not really a knock I guess, more like a heavy rattle, more so than is normal for this engine, but with a definite miss. You can smell a little unburnt diesel and at higher RPM it does “backfire” in the the exhaust some. If this is the same cylinder that had the rocker assembly fly apart then it is possible that it is a crush seal I guess since it was blowing past that injector. I’m not sure if there is a point between open and closed where the injector can get stuck.

How hot did you have to get your new injectors when you powder coated them? Are you getting any unusual exhaust smoke when it’s running bad?

Flow-out starts about 175-195 depending the powder from the temps that I’ve seen, and for the injectors I only heated them enough to get the powder to flow out since I didn’t want to ruin any seals or coke any fuel. That was a concern though, I’m hoping that the powder wasn’t what did this. I was about to start it up again and check temps on the exhaust to see which cylinder is being a brat.